informis/textfiles
1
0
Fork 0
Code Issues Pull Requests Packages Projects Releases Wiki Activity

Initial commit

Browse Source
This commit is contained in:
root@procul
2021-04-15 13:31:59 -05:00
commit 278a90f7ce
57951 changed files with 34606208 additions and 0 deletions
Download Patch File Download Diff File Expand all files Collapse all files
food/all_grai
+909
View File
@@ -0,0 +1,909 @@
Received: from Sierra.Stanford.EDU by gloworm.Stanford.EDU with SMTP (5.67b8/25-eef) id AA19916; Tue, 30 Aug 1994 14:06:31 -0700␍
Received: from SLUAVA.slu.edu (sluvca.slu.edu) by Sierra.Stanford.EDU with SMTP (5.67b8/25-eef) id AA11430; Tue, 30 Aug 1994 14:06:28 -0700␍
Received: from SLUVCA.SLU.EDU by SLUVCA.SLU.EDU (PMDF V4.3-7 #5070) id <01HGIY7SMHSG9OESET@SLUVCA.SLU.EDU>; Tue, 30 Aug 1994 16:08:52 CST␍
Date: Tue, 30 Aug 1994 16:08:49 -0600 (CST)␍
From: DARREN TYSON <TYSONDR@SLUVCA.SLU.EDU>␍
Subject: upload to homebrew archives␍
To: HANSEN@SIERRA.STANFORD.EDU␍
Message-Id: <01HGIY7SRUOY9OESET@SLUVCA.SLU.EDU>␍
Organization: SAINT LOUIS UNIVERSITY St. Louis, MO␍
X-Envelope-To: HANSEN@SIERRA.STANFORD.EDU␍
X-Vms-To: HANSEN@SIERRA.STANFORD.EDU␍
Mime-Version: 1.0␍
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7BIT␍
␍
␍
␍
Hi,␍
␍
I wish to have a file uploaded to the hombrew archive. I have ␍
previously written to you without a reply. I am including the upload ␍
at the end of this message so that you may upload it directly. Rich ␍
Webb is the original author of this file. I am just trying to get it ␍
archived for him. Thank you.␍
␍
Darren Tyson tysondr@sluvca.slu.edu␍
␍
Original article follows:␍
----------------------------------------------------------------␍
From: "Richard B. Webb" <rbw1271@appenine.ca.boeing.com>␍
␍
The beginners guide to advanced and all-grain brewing␍
By Richard B. Webb, the Brews Brother's 1993 Homebrewer of the year␍
␍
The purpose of this guide is to give you the brewer all the␍
information you need to strike off into unknown territory, and to help␍
you become the ultimate brewing god. In it, I will try to communicate␍
my brewing philosophy and techniques. In short, I will teach you the␍
summation of everything I know about brewing and life!␍
␍
Zymurgy (pronounced Zi-mer-gee, with the i pronounced like 'eye') is␍
the study of living, organic chemistry. It seeks to use and manipulate␍
chemical compounds (such as salts and sugars), living organisms␍
(yeast), and a universal solvent (water!) to create a pleasant␍
tasting, psychoactive substance called alcohol. Alcohol is a drug,␍
similar to many other drugs that every culture known to man has used␍
to expand the consciousness, commune with the gods, or just to catch a␍
buzz. Alcohol in general, and beer in particular, may have been the␍
driving force behind the eventual civilizing of the beast, man. After␍
all, without fermentables, there is no alcohol, and without␍
cultivation, and therefore civilization, there are precious few␍
fermentables. Some societies come by their alcohol requirements the␍
hard way, doing all kinds of mean, nasty, stupid things to make it. In␍
modern times, and with modern methods, you and I can drink like kings,␍
if not like gods.␍
␍
The word alcohol describes a range of molecules, formed from carbon,␍
oxygen, and hydrogen atoms. These molecules are formed by the␍
metabolization of certain sugars by living organisms, called yeast,␍
leaving roughly equal parts alcohol and carbon dioxide as a␍
by-product. We use this special ability of the yeast to make various␍
types of beverages which include alcohol.␍
␍
Equipment␍
␍
1. All grain brewing: What new equipment do I need?␍
␍
1.1. Boiling pots␍
␍
The process for all grain brewing is actually pretty easy. If you are␍
an extract brewer now, you probably have the beginnings of an␍
equipment pile already. An extract brewer can get away with a three or␍
four gallon boiling container, but this is just a spittoon to serious␍
all grain brewers. The first thing that you need for all grain brewing␍
is a larger boiler. All grain brewing typically produces a gallon of␍
water for every three or four pounds of grain, and it doesn't take␍
much grain before the volumes of water begin to strain that old coffee␍
cup of a boiler. My first bit of advice is to invest in a large␍
boiler, the bigger the better, with a minimum of seven gallons is␍
best. You may find yourself outgrowing even that size of boiler as␍
your brewing plans become more ambitious, so consider getting an even␍
bigger pot to start with.␍
␍
Stainless steel pots are ideal for brewing, but they can be a bit␍
pricy. My first big boiler was an aluminum stock pot, coming to the␍
scale at around eight gallons, but I wasn't very happy with it. The␍
aluminum scratched easily, and stained too readily. Cleaning it up␍
took up layers off the bottom, and fears of excessive intake of␍
molecular aluminum led to the eventual discarding of the pot. If you␍
do use aluminum, do not use it to store wort for very long. The␍
acidity of wort often dissolves the aluminum, leading to discoloration␍
or worse.␍
␍
An alternative to stainless steel is enameled steel. This is made by␍
heating a glaze onto the surface of a cheaper type of steel kettle.␍
This can work for you, but remember that any chip in the enamel that␍
exposes the underlying steel will allow that steel to begin rusting.␍
My advice? Find a used stainless steel mega-pot and use it until you␍
feel the need to upgrade.␍
␍
1.2. Cooling systems␍
␍
Your old small boiler may have fit just fine in a sink filled with␍
cold water and ice for cooling the wort after boiling, but your bigger␍
boiler will never fit. If you don't have one already, invest in a wort␍
chiller/heat exchanger of some sort, or better yet, learn to make your␍
own. They are frightfully easy to make, and if you can get other␍
people interested, you can sell wort chillers that you've made to␍
them. I prefer the copper coil immersion wort chillers myself. As the␍
hot wort is cooled rapidly, proteinaceous matter (also called floating␍
junk) condenses and precipitates out of solution. An immersion type␍
chiller allows this stuff to settle out to the bottom of the boiling␍
pot before it is transferred to the fermentation containers. If you␍
get really creative, you can build a couple of wort chillers and chain␍
them together, with the first chiller immersed in a bath of ice water,␍
pre-cooling the water before it begins to chill your hot wort.␍
␍
Immersion chillers are best kept clean prior to use, and are␍
sterilized by placing into the wort while it is still hot. If there is␍
any water inside the chiller, especially if there are also air bubbles␍
inside, the heat from the kettle will force the water out of the␍
chiller. Watch your shoes!␍
␍
Another type of chiller is called a counter-flow chiller. This tube␍
inside a tube system allows the draining of hot wort through a copper␍
tube whose outside is being cooled by water. The picture formed is the␍
opposite of the immersion chiller where the wort is on the outside of␍
the tube, with coolant water flowing through the tubing. The␍
counter-flow chiller has the advantage of siphoning the wort from the␍
boiling container into a fermenter at the same time as it is being␍
cooled, saving a step of transfer later on. This idea is seductive,␍
especially if you have no better way to transfer cool wort to the␍
fermenters in the first place.␍
␍
The use and care of the counter-flow chiller is a little more involved␍
than the immersion chiller. Because the counter-flow chiller is much␍
more efficient at cooling the wort flowing through it, the␍
proteinaceous matter that precipitates out of solution tends to stick␍
to the sides of the tube. Care must be taken to completely flush this␍
matter out of the tube prior to the next use. Failure to do so will␍
ensure that your next batch of wort will be contaminated by nasty␍
beasties growing in your chiller between batches. Proper cleaning of␍
the chiller involves back flushing the tube with a series of nasty␍
chemical baths which themselves leave residue which may taint future␍
batches!␍
␍
I guess you can tell which kind of chiller system I prefer. The system␍
you pick depends on what your priorities are. You can choose high␍
efficiency, balanced against the need for intensive cleaning protocol,␍
or you can accept a lower efficiency, easier cleaning system. In␍
either case, pick a system that works for you and your brewing system.␍
␍
1.3. Mashing and Lautering␍
␍
A tun is a container that is used to maintain certain environmental␍
conditions while the malt sugar is being created. The mash tun holds␍
the grain in a soup of water and sugar during this process. A lauter␍
tun allows the liquid surrounding the grains to be drained off, while␍
allowing more rinsing water (the sparge) to be run through the grains,␍
allowing even further sugar extraction. One attribute of a good mash␍
tun is the ability to allow liquid to flow easily through a straining␍
system incorporated in the tun. An example of this kind of mash tun␍
involves a bucket with some sort of false bottom inside of another␍
bucket. This sieve design allows the grains to form a filter bed while␍
allowing the sweet liquor to flow through the false bottom strainer. I␍
tried this system, but I wasn't very happy with it. The sieve design␍
took forever to make, and the whole thing suffered a major flaw in␍
temperature control. Another of the attributes of a good tun is the␍
ability to maintain a steady temperature, and the un-insulated bucket␍
system just falls short. The most versatile tun that I've found is␍
made from a large picnic cooler, with straining filters placed in the␍
bottom to let the liquified sugars pass through while restraining the␍
spent grains. This set up combines the best attributes of the mash and␍
lauter tuns into a single device, saving money, process steps, and a␍
mess on the kitchen floor. (Another reason I do my mashing in the␍
garage...) My tun system incorporates a series of PVC pipe sections␍
into which slits have been sawn. These sections are joined with PVC␍
elbow, Tee and X sections to form a sieve type filter. The original␍
design had a lot of joining sections, with poles of PVC pipe jutting␍
into the bottom of the grain bed. This unwieldy structure was␍
connected to the cooler drain spout, which allows the liquid to be␍
drained out. A small rubber stopper fits over the spout, and a valve␍
in the other end of the stopper allows the control of liquid flow from␍
the tun.␍
␍
My latest design of the sieve is a very simple one. Instead of a␍
trident design of pipes all along the bottom of the tun, I now use two␍
four inch sections of slotted pipe, joined at the center with a PVC␍
Tee section. End caps keep the grain out of the ends of the plastic␍
pipes, and the outlet from the Tee section is connected to the␍
cooler's outlet. Not only is this design simpler, but it is also␍
harder to dislodge from the outlet. The smaller number of slits gives␍
a longer sparge time, which increases the sugar extraction rate.␍
␍
If one of your goals is to maximize the amount of sugar that you can␍
create from your grains (the ones that you've spent good money for!),␍
then you need to know about sparging. In this example, sparging is the␍
running of hot water through the hot grains to dissolve the last bits␍
of sugar from the mash. This is best done gently and slowly. If the␍
water is flushing through the grain, pathways of water are formed,␍
channeling the water around, and not through the grains. Hot water is␍
used, but the temperature of the grains should never exceed 170␍
degrees Fahrenheit, as this would leech out harsh bitter oils from the␍
grain husks. And the quantity of water must be such that after a sixty␍
minute boil, the amount of wort called for in your recipe is the␍
amount you wind up with. If you do make an error, it's probably better␍
to wind up with to little liquor after the boil, because it's␍
relatively easy to add sterile water to the fermenter, while any␍
excess liquor is subject to contamination as it is stored. The␍
important points to remember are 1) gentle sparging, 2) temperature␍
control, and 3) try to get the quantities right!␍
␍
When creating such a tun and filter system, there are some points that␍
you should keep in mind. The size of the tun determines the amount of␍
grain you can mash, and if your tun is too small, you will be␍
restricted to making light and wimpy beers, because you simply have no␍
room to mash larger amounts of grain. When buying a cooler to make␍
into a tun, get one with a drain system already in place. Drilling␍
your own hole is a gateway to frustration. Finally, use high␍
temperature PVC pipe for your filtering system. The maximum␍
temperature required in a tun is about 170 degrees Fahrenheit, a␍
temperature sufficient to melt many thinner grades of pipe. The pipes␍
won't become liquid at that temperature, but they will warp, allowing␍
grain to enter the sieve, plugging up your system. You haven't lived␍
until you have to spoon 25 or more pounds of grain into a straining␍
bag because your filtering system has failed.␍
␍
The Mash␍
␍
2. Sugars, Extracts and adjuncts␍
␍
Brewing requires sugar to use as food for the yeast beasties. In␍
ancient times, the only source of sugar readily available was to be␍
found in the hives of bees. Honey, exposed to rain water in the␍
trunks of trees where bees had built their hives, might have been␍
spontaneously fermented by "wild" yeasts, and likely would have␍
yielded mankind's first experience with the joys of alcohol. Today, we␍
seek to make something a little more palatable.␍
␍
the most common form of sugar is made from distilling the sweet sap of␍
certain plants, such as sugar cane, or sugar beets. This sugar, called␍
sucrose, is white and granular in it's purest form, and is most␍
suitable for putting on your corn flakes. Speaking of corn, the most␍
easily fermentable type of sugar comes from corn. This sugar, called␍
dextrose, is light and powdery. But each of these sugars come from␍
giant processing plants, a process far removed from what we as brewers␍
can come by on our own. Let us first deal with sugars that we can␍
create ourselves.␍
␍
2.1. All grain brewing: Where does the sugar come from?␍
␍
Anything with the right kind of sugar can be fermented, and most any␍
kind of starch can be converted to the right kind of sugar.␍
Fermentable sugars used in beer have traditionally been made from␍
barley, a seed grain which has little use outside of brewing, but any␍
kind of seed grain can be used to make fermentable sugars. The body of␍
a seed contains mostly starch. When a seed is planted, special␍
chemical compounds, called enzymes, convert the starch, which the␍
embryo inside the seed cannot use, into special sugars, which the␍
embryo consumes in it's early stages of growth. (The yolk of an egg␍
performs roughly the same function for chickens, but we mostly don't␍
try to ferment poultry...) We go out of our way to collect special␍
seeds that have shown that they are especially well suited for␍
supplying us with fermentable sugars. We then encourage (some say␍
trick) the seeds into converting this starch into sugar by controlling␍
certain temperature, moisture, and other environmental needs. This␍
process is begun at the great malting houses, and, in my case at␍
least, is completed in my garage. Warmer temperatures (over 153␍
degrees Fahrenheit or so) encourage the type of enzymes, called alpha␍
enzymes, that convert long chains of starches into medium length␍
chains of sugars, called dextrins, which don't ferment very well, but␍
are necessary for a well made beer. Temperatures below that encourage␍
the beta enzymes, which convert the chains of dextrins into␍
fermentable sugars. In order to get a good balance of fermentable and␍
non-fermentable sugars, we seek to achieve a balance of temperature of␍
around 150-153 degrees Fahrenheit.␍
␍
The process by which seeds are made ready for brewing is called␍
malting. When the seeds are bathed in warm water under conditions of␍
continual aeration, they begin to germinate. This germination is␍
interrupted by the maltster, who dries and sometimes roasts the␍
partially germinated seeds. It is this drying and roasting process␍
that determines the ultimate color of the malt sugars extracted from␍
the malt.␍
␍
Barley that is taken farther along in this malting process is called␍
well-modified malt. Historically, this type of malt has lent itself␍
to English style ales. When you buy ale or pale ale malt from your␍
friendly neighborhood brewery supply store, you are buying␍
well-modified malt. Other types of malt, referred to as␍
under-modified, or lager malt, are of course, less well modified. This␍
means that the malting process has not proceeded along as far as is␍
the case with the well-modified malts. If you desire to get the␍
maximum amount of extract/sugar from your malts, you need to know how␍
to treat these two kinds of malt. Otherwise you're throwing money into␍
the compost pile in the form of starch and sugar that you've neglected␍
to remove from the malt.␍
␍
While we call these malts ale malt and lager malt, these terms are␍
pretty much subjective. There is nothing to stop you from using an ale␍
malt with lager yeast, or vice-versa. For all intents and purposes,␍
the only difference in the malts is the method best used to get the␍
maximum amount of sugar from the grain.␍
␍
Because the sugar in the well-modified malt is readily available to␍
us, we can extract the maximum amount of sugar by a process called␍
single step infusion mashing. Hot water at approximately 165 degrees␍
is placed into the picnic cooler mash tun, and allowed to sit. This is␍
necessary to heat the interior of the tun, allowing a constant and␍
uniform temperature to be achieved. After the temperature settles, the␍
grain is poured on top of the water and thoroughly mixed in. The␍
starch tends to settle to the bottom of the tun where it is converted␍
to sugar and drained away. The grain husks, which tend to float away,␍
will then settle to the bottom of the tun, forming a filter bed to␍
work in conjunction with the filtering properties of the slotted PVC␍
pipe. A constant temperature of about 150-155 degrees is maintained␍
for about 90 minutes, or until the starch has been completely␍
converted to sugar. This conversion of starch to sugar is called␍
saccharification. Some of the hot, sugary liquid is drained away,␍
while more hot water is added to the tun until the temperature of the␍
grains is about 170 degrees. This temperature is maintained for five␍
to ten minutes, which allows the sugar created during saccharification␍
to be readily dissolved. The liquid sugar soup is then partially␍
drained away, while new water is allowed to flow through the grains.␍
This sparge water should be no warmer than 170 degrees, as water␍
hotter than that will leech out bitter oils and resins from the␍
grains, potentially ruining an otherwise perfect batch of beer.␍
␍
One problem with single step infusion mashing is that the initial␍
temperature of the grains is very hard to control. If the water is too␍
hot when the grains are added (the strike temperature), then the␍
enzymes in the grains can be killed, and an insufficient sugar yield␍
will result. If the temperature is too low, then it will have to be␍
raised, especially for beer styles that call for rich, thick, and full␍
bodied beers. The temperature can be raised in a couple of ways.␍
First, hot water can simply be added to the mash. This works up to a␍
point, but it has a certain drawback. The enzymes are more likely to␍
survive the high temperatures of the mash in a relatively thick grain␍
bed. Adding hot water only serves to dilute the grain bed, resulting␍
in a loss of enzymes. The other method of introducing heat to the mash␍
is to remove some of the liquid from the mash. This liquor is heated␍
up, and then returned to the mash. This process is called decoction␍
mashing, and is a technique used in program temperature mashing.␍
␍
This process, most commonly used with lager, or less-modified malt, is␍
similar to single step infusion mashing, yet different. Because the␍
malt is less well modified, there are proteins that remain in the␍
starch which must be dealt with. Instead of placing the grains into a␍
liquid bath at a single, high temperature, the grains are introduced␍
at a lower temperature. Then the temperature in the tun or kettle is␍
slowly increased. As in the single step infusion mash, the hot water␍
is placed in the tun, the temperature inside the tun is allowed to␍
stabilize, and the grain is poured into the water and thoroughly␍
mixed. The main difference here is that the temperature to be achieved␍
initially is closer to 122 degrees Fahrenheit, as opposed to over 150␍
degrees as described in the previous method. After a short rest at␍
this temperature, heat is added to the tun, and the mashing␍
temperature is allowed to rise. Again the ultimate goal here is a␍
temperature of about 150-155 degrees.␍
␍
There are several methods for adding heat energy to the mash tun. One␍
way that I've tried is by inserting a water heater heating element␍
into the grain mash. This can work, but constant stirring is required␍
in order to evenly distribute the heat throughout the tun. Too high a␍
heat in any one place will leech out the oils and resins that I␍
mentioned earlier.␍
␍
Program temperature mashing also lends itself to heating in a kettle␍
on the stove. Constant stirring keeps the temperature at the bottom␍
of the kettle from rising too high, or from being heated more than the␍
grain near the top of the kettle. At the end of the process, the␍
grains need to be placed into some sort of lauter tun in order to␍
sparge the grains of the hot, soluble sugar. But another method of␍
gradual heating lends itself to the use of picnic cooler mash/lauter␍
tuns. Using such a tun, remove some of the sugary liquid and heat it␍
up independently from the rest of the mash. This liquor can be boiled␍
for a few minutes and then returned to the mash tun. As mentioned␍
earlier, this technique is called decoction mashing, and is well␍
suited to the picnic cooler mash tun, but it can be tricky. Care must␍
be taken not to extract, heat, and return too much liquor at one time,␍
lest the temperature inside the mash tun become too great. It takes a␍
lot of heat added to the tun to increase the temperature␍
significantly, so after a few small decoctions there is a temptation␍
to drain the whole batch and boil it and return it to the tun. Try not␍
to be too impatient...␍
␍
A variation of this decoction technique is known as the recirculating␍
infusion mash method. A pump that can handle hot liquids is used to␍
pump the heated liquor from the boiling kettle back to the mash tun.␍
The hot liquor is continually being drained from the tun into the␍
kettle where it is heated, and is then pumped back to the tun,␍
resulting in a gradual heating of the grains. Recirculating systems␍
can get complicated, and the pumps aren't cheap, and there is one more␍
piece of equipment which must be maintained and cleaned. When the␍
homebrewer sits thinking great thoughts about the best brewing system␍
possible, thoughts often turn to recirculating mash systems.␍
␍
There are lots of different kinds of malt and grains to be put in␍
beer. I have included an appendix to this document with a partial list␍
of the most common types of malt.␍
␍
2.2. Extracts␍
␍
Commercial malt extracts are made in the same way as I have described␍
above. However, the extract manufactures have taken the extra step of␍
removing some or all of the water that the sugar is suspended in.␍
Doing this requires a tremendous amount of energy, both in the heating␍
of the extract, and in the vacuum process by which water is most␍
economically removed. Furthermore, certain unscrupulous extract␍
manufacturers have been suspected of substituting corn sugars and␍
other cheaper sugar alternatives for malt sugar in order to increase␍
profits on their products. All grain brewing allows you to be 100%␍
sure about what goes into your pridefully crafted brews.␍
␍
There is nothing wrong or sinful about using malt extracts. There are␍
many wonderful malt extract kits available in the market today.␍
Extract brewers have taken many knocks concerning their "beginner"␍
status. This is mere provincialism. The use of malt extracts allows␍
the all-grain brewer to thicken up a batch of normally extracted␍
sugars without the long term boiling that would otherwise be required␍
to reduce the sugar solution to the higher gravities required for␍
styles like bocks and barley wines.␍
␍
2.3. Non-barley additives␍
␍
Other substances, called adjuncts, can be added to the mash or kettle␍
for a number of reasons. The most common adjunct, at least in British␍
style brewing are various kinds of sugars. Because the malting of␍
barley is so labor intensive, and therefore expensive, many types of␍
sugars have been added to the boiling kettle to stretch out the mix.␍
Along with the previously mentioned cane and corn sugars are the␍
intermediate steps in the production of these sugars. Molasses results␍
from the initial boiling of the sap of the sugar cane. Condensation of␍
molasses gives a product called brewers licorice, which tastes very␍
similar. Further refinement yields brown sugar, and finally cane␍
sugar.␍
␍
Other type adjuncts are more commonly added to the mash tun, with the␍
most commonly added grain being wheat. Wheat is hard to malt, because␍
it lacks a protective husk around the grain. Wheat is also higher in␍
proteinaceous material, which can lead to a particulate haze in the␍
final brew. However, it is impossible to make a wheat beer without␍
wheat, so one must use it to match a particular style. Also, the use␍
of a little wheat in the mash can contribute to improved head␍
retention, and so many of my recipes call for a pound or so of wheat␍
in the grain bill.␍
␍
Other grains can be added to the mash, but are not always malted. Rice␍
is often used to stretch out barley sugars. In fact, the big␍
mega-breweries use a lot of rice (and corn) to make the beer that␍
makes the money that powers the hydroplanes and dragsters that seem to␍
be these companies main products. Rice is not malted, but must be␍
boiled, prepared just like you were going to eat it, to soften up the␍
starches inside the grain. If this is not done, the enzymes provided␍
by the barley malt will not be able to gain access to the starch in␍
the grain.␍
␍
Another method of making starch available to the enzymes is used with␍
grains like rye, oats, and corn. These grains are crushed in special␍
rollers, with the heat released by this operation serving to cook the␍
grain. The crushing action also makes little grain bits out of big␍
grain bits, making enzyme access that much easier. These grains,␍
especially rye and oats, could also be boiled, but this would allow␍
some nasty oils to be leeched out.␍
␍
What other kinds of starch can be used to make beer? Your imagination␍
(and the trust of your friends) is all that stands between you and the␍
next big micro-brewing revolution. If you can think of a starch, it␍
can probably be mashed into your next brewing adventure. Many cultures␍
make their own kind of beer without knowledge of barley, but other␍
sources of converting enzymes must be found. Sake is a type of rice␍
beer that uses only rice for starch and sugar. A special mold is added␍
that releases the enzyme that is responsible for this transformation.␍
Millet and other grains are used for many intoxicating native␍
beverages. In many cultures, it is the women's job to masticate (or␍
chew) the grains to make them soft. Their saliva contains the same␍
enzyme that converts starch to sugar. (This is where the trust of your␍
friends comes in. Maybe you don't want to tell them how you made the␍
beer until after they've tried it...) For other sources of starch, the␍
sky's the limit. Potatoes? Sure. Pumpkins? Why not. Peanuts? OK.␍
Chickens? Well maybe not. The important thing is not to limit␍
yourself to doing what everybody else does. You can't learn anything␍
if you don't make mistakes.␍
␍
3. Water␍
␍
What we call water is actually a rather complicated molecule formed␍
from hydrogen and oxygen atoms. The structure of this molecule gives␍
it some rather unique and interesting chemical properties. For our␍
purposes, the most interesting of these properties is the way that␍
water acts as a universal solvent for stripping bits off of bigger␍
chunks and suspending the bits in solution. This type of reaction␍
happens at several stages in the brewing process, and it is useful to␍
understand how to make this happen to your advantage.␍
␍
3.1. Salts␍
␍
Before you get the water from your tap, the most common form of␍
substance suspended in your water are various types of salts. A salt␍
is also a molecule containing various elements or compounds, held␍
together by a weak electric bond. In water, this bond is broken,␍
allowing the salt to be dissolved and the component elements or␍
molecules to be held in solution. The most well known salt, which is␍
so famous that we just call it 'salt', is a compound called Sodium␍
Chloride. It is easily dissolved in water, separating into it's␍
constituent elements of Na (sodium) and Cl (chlorine). Other types of␍
salts use chemical compounds to make up one or another of these␍
pieces. Calcium Carbonate, which is popularly known as Chalk, uses a␍
molecule with three oxygen atoms and a carbon atom to form a Carbonate␍
group, which binds to a Calcium atom to form the salt. The salt known␍
as Gypsum (or in some British brewing books as plaster of Paris) also␍
contains one atom of Calcium, but instead of a Carbonate, it binds␍
with a molecule formed from four atoms of oxygen and one of Sulphur,␍
called a Sulfate. The last salt we brewers must be concerned with is␍
known as an Epsom salt. It uses the same Sulfate group as Gypsum, but␍
it joins with a Magnesium atom instead of a Sulphur atom.␍
␍
Water chemistry is as simple as that. You don't even have to know the␍
names of the different components of the salts. But you do need to do␍
a little bookkeeping if you wish to keep track of the amounts of the␍
various salt constituents in your brew. This is what you need to know:␍
␍
Adding one teaspoon of table salt to a 5 gallon batch gives 110 ppm␍
Sodium.␍
␍
Adding one teaspoon of table salt to a 5 gallon batch gives 170 ppm␍
Chlorine.␍
␍
Adding one teaspoon of Gypsum to a 5 gallon batch gives 142 ppm␍
Sulfate.␍
␍
Adding one teaspoon of Epsom Salt to a 5 gallon batch gives 70 ppm␍
Sulfate.␍
␍
Adding one teaspoon of Chalk to a 5 gallon batch gives 57 ppm␍
Carbonate.␍
␍
Adding one teaspoon of Gypsum to a 5 gallon batch gives 59 ppm␍
Calcium.␍
␍
Adding one teaspoon of Chalk to a 5 gallon batch gives 39 ppm Calcium.␍
␍
Adding one teaspoon of Epsom Salt to a 5 gallon batch gives 18 ppm␍
Magnesium.␍
␍
The abbreviation "ppm" stands for parts per million. It is a measure␍
of how much of particulate matter is suspended in solution, whether it␍
is salt in water or smog in air.␍
␍
It is often the desire of the brewer to match the mineral content of␍
the world's great brewing centers in order to better match the world's␍
great beers. This is because the source of water for say, Munich is␍
unique, due to the various rock and salt formations that the ground␍
water must flow through before it is used for brewing. It is also␍
important to know the maximum allowable amount of these various salt␍
components. There are other sources to tell you the mineral content of␍
Munich, or Burton-on-Trent, or wherever, and how many ppm of various␍
salts are required to match the classic pale ale, but here is my bit␍
of advice for you that I picked up:␍
␍
Do not exceed 200 ppm of Carbonate.␍
␍
Do not exceed 150 ppm of Sulfate.␍
␍
Now all you have to do is keep track of how many ppm of the various␍
salt constituents to match the beer style you are trying to achieve.␍
But there is another method for getting the minerals to match the␍
style.␍
␍
3.2. pH␍
␍
pH is a measure of the acidity of a substance. There are no limits on␍
the pH measurement scale, but because the scale is logarithmic (like␍
the Richter scale for measuring earthquakes), a solution with a pH of␍
5 is ten times more acidic than a solution with a pH of 6, and a␍
solution with a pH of 4 is ten times more acidic than a solution with␍
a pH of 5. Pure distilled water forms the neutral point on this scale␍
with a pH value of 7. Water that has been carbonated by dissolving␍
carbon dioxide in it (forming a weak carbolic acid) has a lower pH, as␍
does rain water, which absorbs carbon dioxide from the atmosphere. (If␍
the rain falls through pollution from car exhaust or encounters␍
sulphur from steel mill or power plant smokestacks, the water becomes␍
even more acidic, resulting in acid rain.) But there are better ways␍
to manipulate the acid/alkali balance of water than carbonization or␍
auto exhaust.␍
␍
Why do we worry about pH? Because the enzymes which convert grain␍
starch to sugar work more efficiently in an environment with a pH␍
value of about 5.2-5.4. Most grains, when suspended in water, tend to␍
force the pH to a value near that range, but sometimes we need to␍
intervene to create the optimal conditions. This is done by adding␍
brewing salts.␍
␍
Why is Burton-on-Trent famous for its pale ales, while Munich is known␍
for its darker beers? It's because of the brewing water's pH. OK, it's␍
really from the dissolved minerals in the water, but that's what␍
changes the water's pH. Lighter grains leave a higher pH in a solution␍
of neutral water than darker, more acidic grains. Water that has a␍
high concentration of Sulfates is lower in pH than neutral water. Put␍
another way, water that is high in Sulfates is good for brewing pale␍
grains in because the resulting pH allows the enzymes to work most␍
efficiently. To sum up, adding Gypsum lowers pH, while adding Chalk␍
raises pH. Burton-on-Trent water is high in Sulfates (just like adding␍
lots of Gypsum), and thus lends itself to the making of pale ales.␍
(This water also accentuates the bitterness of hops, and therefore is␍
useful for making very hoppy beers.) Darker grains, and thus darker␍
beers, are made where the water is high in carbonates. So all of the␍
arguments about matching water to your favorite brewing locale pretty␍
much boils down to getting the right pH balance for the type of grains␍
that you want to use.␍
␍
By the way, if you're putting your spent grains into a compost pile,␍
be sure to add limestone or other "sweetening" agent to the pile. The␍
acidity of the grains will create compost that is too acidic for most␍
plants.␍
␍
One more word about salts and pH. Chalk does not readily dissolve in␍
neutral water. It needs a slightly acidic environment to be suspended␍
in (such as grains in water in your mash tun). Limestone is also␍
chalk, formed into ancient geology from the shells of marine animals␍
which sank to the bottom of the sea when the critters died. Over the␍
millennia, these shells were heated and compressed, forming into hard␍
rock formations. The white cliffs of Dover are just such a geologic␍
structure. Water flowing through these structures can dissolve␍
channels through the rock, leading to long caves that follow the␍
meandering of the river channel that carved it. Water dripping from␍
the tops of these caves leave a little bit of limestone with each␍
drip, resulting in a stalactite hanging from the ceiling, while the␍
water dripping to the floor of the cave piles up the limestone,␍
resulting in stalagmites reaching up from the floor. These caves form␍
natural reservoirs which city folk use to collect highly mineralized␍
water, all the better to make dark beers with!␍
␍
3.3. Tap Water␍
␍
Because water is such a good solvent, there are often things dissolved␍
in it that don't necessarily make for good beer. I was pleased to read␍
a test survey from my local water district that reported no detectable␍
sources of radioactivity were found in my water. Imagine my relief.␍
However, there are other things in my water that I wish weren't there.␍
␍
Chlorine␍
␍
Chlorine is used in minute amounts to neutralize any organic matter␍
that may have leached into the water source. Water that has been in␍
contact with chlorine for a while, such as that found in your hot␍
water tank, can be considered fairly clean of contaminants. Chlorine␍
should be boiled away before it causes off-flavors in the beer, but␍
who has the time? If you're worried about off-flavors from chlorine,␍
boil your water before you use it for mashing. Otherwise, don't sweat␍
it.␍
␍
Fluoride␍
␍
Fluoride is added to the water to strengthen the forming teeth of␍
young people. It is not a communist plot for world domination as the␍
John Birchers would have us believe. I have not heard of fluoride␍
becoming a problem for brewers.␍
␍
Contaminants␍
␍
This is the everything else category. Run-off from pastures soaks into␍
the ground and into the water supply. Excess pesticides and␍
fertilizers do the same. Oil that is not recycled, gas that spills␍
from a siphon, intentional spills and discharges threaten our health,␍
as well as the quality of the beer that we make. This is where each of␍
us, as stewards of the planet, can do our part to ensure healthy␍
supplies of water for us and for our descendants. And for our beer.␍
␍
3.4. Other compounds in solution␍
␍
Beer is a fascinating collection of chemical compounds all suspended␍
in water. Pure water has a density equal to 1.000. Anything added to␍
that changes the density. The specific gravity and the Baling scale␍
are measures of the amount of suspended particles. Before the␍
invention of these scales, the amount of sugar in a particular batch␍
was a guess at best. One old method of dissolved sugar determination␍
involved an inspector with special leather pants. A bit of beer wort␍
was poured onto a wooden chair, which the inspector then sat on. If,␍
after drying, the chair stuck to the inspectors butt, the amount of␍
sugar dissolved in the wort was deemed sufficient. But we have␍
inexpensive instruments that can measure dissolved sugars a lot easier␍
than that. Get yourself a Hydrometer. It is the single most important␍
tool in your equipment kit. And it's a lot easier on your chairs.␍
␍
Water and alcohol mix very easily together, but they don't weigh the␍
same. One gallon of water and one gallon of alcohol yields a mixture␍
of 50% alcohol by volume, or 100 proof, but there is now less than two␍
gallons of mix. This is because the alcohol molecules fit rather␍
cozily in between the water molecules, physically taking up less␍
space. Thus our intoxicating mixture of alcohol and water would have a␍
specific gravity or density of 0.7939, giving 79.4% percent alcohol by␍
weight. This is why the question of percent alcohol by weight or␍
volume must be addressed whenever comparing the alcoholic strength of␍
a brew.␍
␍
One last mention about living chemistry. The enzymes that promote␍
fermentable sugars are very temperature sensitive. Our compromise␍
temperature of 150-153 degrees Fahrenheit is almost too much for the␍
little compounds to stand. For some reason, the use of one gallon of␍
water for every three or four pounds of grain for the initial mash␍
enables the enzymes to survive and work more efficiently than either a␍
thicker or thinner grain soup. Not that I'm trying to encourage high␍
alcohol beers. Instead, I'm trying to help you get the most sugar,␍
fermentable or not, from the starch that you've purchased from your␍
friendly neighborhood homebrew supply store.␍
␍
The boil␍
␍
You've finally finished draining and sparging the grains in your mash␍
tun. Now what? >From here on out, the procedure is similar to the␍
techniques that you use for extract brewing. But here are some tips␍
that maybe you didn't know.␍
␍
When you are draining the rather warm sugar liquor from your tun into␍
the boiling kettle, don't let the liquid fall too far, or splash up␍
too much. This leads to what is called hot-side aeration, and can lead␍
to some funny aftertastes. Rather unpleasant aftertastes.␍
␍
You should bring the wort to a full and rolling boil before you add␍
any hops, waiting until after the foam, or hot-break, dissolves. There␍
are important chemical reactions taking place in the wort even then.␍
The foam consists of proteinaceous matter that you want to coagulate␍
out of the final beer. Of course, if you want a thick, full bodied␍
beer (nutritious, as the Brits would say), then a long boil, over 90␍
minutes, will encourage the protein to re-dissolve back into the wort.␍
But there are plenty of non-fermentable sugars in the liquor now,␍
especially if your mash was held at temperatures above 155 degrees or␍
so. This long boil will also make the finished beer darker, due to␍
caramelization and other chemical reactions taking place over time. If␍
you are seeking to keep the beer nice and light, mash at lower␍
temperatures, and only boil for an hour or so.␍
␍
4. Hops␍
␍
All right you hop-heads, listen up. Be careful with these things! When␍
you were using malt extract to make your beers, those small boiling␍
pots made for a denser liquid than you will be using in all-grain.␍
Consequently, the extraction, or utilization of the hop acids will be␍
greater. Especially if you've read the section about adding Gypsum␍
which accentuates the hops to make the perfect pale ale, your hops are␍
going to be more pronounced in this thinner boiled beer. If you don't␍
do your calculations very carefully, you'll be scraping bitter hop␍
resin off of your teeth long into the evening. Here's how to calculate␍
hop bitterness in beer.␍
␍
Determine the gravity of the boil (GB). If GB is less than 1.050, then␍
the gravity adjustment (GA) is zero. If GB is greater than 1.050, an␍
adjustment should be made to the achieved hop bitterness.␍
␍
Determining the Gravity Adjustment (GA)␍
␍
if GB << 1.050, then GA = 0, otherwise: GA = ((GB) - 1.050)/0.2␍
␍
To determine the IBU bitterness based upon the added hops and boiling time, use ␍
this handy formula. (percents expressed as decimal equivalents, 8%␍
=0.08) This is good for boils up to 60 minutes long, after which the␍
minutes of boil isn't changed.␍
␍
IBU = (Weight_oz * (minutes of boil/200) * (%Acid/100) *␍
7462)/(Volume_gal * (1 + GA))␍
␍
To determine the amount of hops of a certain alpha acid needed to␍
match a particular bitterness level, use this formula:␍
␍
Weight_oz = (Volume_gal * (1 + GA) * IBU)/((minutes of boil/200) *␍
(%Acid/100) * 7462)␍
␍
This chart of my own construction shows the IBUs necessary to achieve␍
one definition of "balanced" hop bitterness, based on the original␍
gravity of the wort:␍
␍
Original Gravity recommend IBU␍
1.010 4␍
1.020 8␍
1.030 12␍
1.040 16␍
1.050 24␍
1.060 32␍
1.070 40␍
1.080 48␍
1.090 56␍
1.100 64␍
␍
4.1. Early Additions␍
␍
Early hop additions make more bitterness than later additions. Using␍
more hops makes for more bitterness than using fewer hops. And using␍
more bitter hops makes for more bitterness than less bitter hops.␍
Hopefully this is obvious to you. What you may not know is that␍
winding up with 6 gallons of wort leaves your beer almost 17% less␍
bitter than you would have if you gotten the 5 gallons that you␍
planned for. (This is also true of the color of the beer, but that's␍
not my concern here.) This just goes to show how important it is to␍
not only accurately design your beer, but also how important it is to␍
keep to that plan.␍
␍
4.2. Late Additions␍
␍
Hops that are added late to the boil do not complete the chemical␍
changes necessary to extract all of the hop resins available to the␍
kettle. Instead, the essential oils that are boiled away in long boils␍
remain to contribute to hop flavor and aroma. Some hops are well known␍
for their superior taste and aroma, while others are more suitable for␍
long boil bittering. Try to match the hops to the style that you're␍
trying to create.␍
␍
5. Yeast␍
␍
5.1. Ale Yeast␍
␍
Ale yeasts are happiest at or near room temperature. Fermentation␍
temperatures below 55 degrees Fahrenheit will pretty much shut down␍
most ale yeast strains. Temperatures higher than 70 degrees for any␍
yeast will encourage alcohols with higher molecular weight which will␍
affect the taste of your beer. These alcohols will also increase the␍
severity of your hangover if you over-indulge. There are some styles␍
which benefit from these alcohols, and are therefore more suitable for␍
warm weather brewing. These styles include: Barley wines/strong ales,␍
Belgian ales (including Lambic, Gueuze, and Trappist ales), Imperial␍
Stouts, Strong Porter, Brown ales, and some fruit beers. Wyeast␍
#1056, the Chico/American ale yeast is a low producer of off flavors␍
at higher temperatures, so can be used where other yeast strains␍
cannot.␍
␍
5.2. Lager Yeast␍
␍
The Wyeast lager yeast varieties have a reputation for not finishing␍
their kraeusen very quickly. What is true is that successive␍
generations of yeast will become better adapted to the environment in␍
which they are raised. Saving your yeast can be a good way to save␍
money and keep the best characteristics of the yeast that you want.␍
␍
As is the case whenever you go about dealing with yeast, sterilization␍
must be a way of life. To wash the yeast, you must have on hand some␍
very cool pre-boiled water. (Whenever I boil bottle caps prior to␍
bottling, I always save the water, cooling it before I need to wash␍
yeast.) After siphoning the fermented wort to either a conditioning␍
container or secondary fermentation container, pour some of the␍
sediment from the bottom of the carboy into a sterile jar with a lid.␍
Pour enough of the cool water into the jar to thoroughly dilute the␍
sediment. Secure the lid on the jar, swirl the contents of the jar␍
thoroughly, and place in the refrigerator until you are ready to deal␍
with it again (typically after bottling). The heavier particles of␍
sediment, such as hop bits and coagulated protein, will settle to the␍
bottom of the jar, while the lighter yeast bits will remain suspended␍
in the water. I pour this water into a clean bottle and cap it,␍
storing the yeast in the refrigerator. To re-use this yeast, allow the␍
bottle to warm to the same temperature as the wort that you are␍
pitching into. Remove the cap, and sterilize the lip of the bottle␍
with flame. Simply stir up the yeast in the bottle and pour the␍
contents into the fresh beer wort. Subsequent generations of yeast␍
should be better adapted to the conditions in which they are raised.␍
If you do this with enough yeast strains, you will never lack for a␍
big dose of just the right yeast strain for the beer style that you're␍
trying to match.␍
␍
5.3. Other Yeast like beasties␍
␍
There are other critters that want to live in your beer. Some of these␍
beasties are wanted, most are not. To ensure that the only things in␍
your beer are the things that you want there, try to develop a␍
procedure for sanitization that will keep your equipment clean. I␍
store my tubes, hoses, funnels, and other suitable equipment in a␍
plastic (former) fermentation container that has a draining valve␍
attached to the bottom. This stuff floats and soaks in a bleach␍
solution, which I can also drain into carboys or conditioning buckets␍
through use of the draining valve. When I'm through with the solution,␍
I just pour it back into the storage container where it waits until␍
the next time I need something sterilized. I keep smaller bits of␍
equipment, such as airlock parts and my bottling siphon hose, in a␍
smaller bucket, also with the same bleach solution. I have never had␍
much of a problem with contamination, and I don't intend to start␍
soon.␍
␍
Concerning those other beasties. For the most part, bacteria cannot␍
survive in beer. The alcohol and low pH tend to inhibit most types of␍
unwanted critters that live around the home. However, we must be on␍
constant guard for those type of bacteria that thrive in such an␍
environment, especially those that can establish beach heads in your␍
wort before fermentation has begun. Anything that comes in contact␍
with the cool, unfermented wort must be sterile. The most effective␍
way to maintain sterility is to boil under pressure. Failing that,␍
boil wort chillers and spoons in the hot liquor when you can. Other␍
items of equipment may be better served by chemical sterilizers.␍
Bleach is effective, but must be thoroughly rinsed off. Otherwise it␍
will lead to detectable off flavors. Iodine in weak solution doesn't␍
require rinsing, and is easier on your carpet if you are accident␍
prone.␍
␍
6. Mystery Ingredients␍
␍
Before hops were popularized in beer making, the sweetness of the malt␍
was balanced by what was called "gruit". This tended to be a trade␍
secret of the brewer, and was often grown right outside in the garden.␍
If you have a creative bent, especially if you're also a prolific␍
gardener, don't be afraid to try different herbs for bittering␍
purposes. If you don't trust yourself, try small batches with new␍
experiments. Maybe you don't want 5 gallons of hot chilli flavored␍
beer, or maybe you don't have enough onions or garlic to flavor a␍
large batch. And do you really like oregano that much?␍
␍
If I'm going to leave you with one thought, let it be this. Try to use␍
your enthusiasm for this hobby as a springboard to bigger and better␍
things. And don't be afraid to do something really stupid. It's the␍
only way you're ever going to learn anything!␍
␍
Good luck in your brewing endeavors!␍
␍
␍