1319 lines
61 KiB
Plaintext
1319 lines
61 KiB
Plaintext
From wang@ac.dal.caWed Feb 8 01:14:09 1995
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Date: 4 FEB 95 23:57:58 -0400
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From: wang@ac.dal.ca
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Newsgroups: rec.pyrotechnics
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Subject: How to make Bombs book 2 [1/2
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here is another book. Follwup comments is welcome. Replies will
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be ignored.
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May-15-1990 v2.0
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WARNING - These files are for study purposes only! I take absolutely NO
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responsibility for loss of life or limb, or damage to property,
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due to the improper use of these files. Anyhow...have at it!
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TABLE OF CONTENTS
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Rebel Alliance Megcatline ..................................... 1
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Firebombs ..................................................... 1
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Napalm ........................................................ 1
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Match Head Bomb ............................................... 2
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Fuse Ignition Firebomb ........................................ 2
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Napalm Made Easy .............................................. 2
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Gunpowder ..................................................... 3
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Ammonal ....................................................... 3
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Chemically Ignited Explosives (Exp 1-5) ....................... 4
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Thermite Reaction ............................................. 4
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Mercury (II) Fulminate ........................................ 5
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Nitrogen Triiodide ............................................ 5
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Cellulose Nitrate (Guncotton) ................................. 5
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Acetone Hydrogen Explosive .................................... 6
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Smoke, Smoke, Smoke... ........................................ 6
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Plastic Explosives ............................................ 7
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Creation of Thermite .......................................... 8
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How to Make a 'Real' Pipe Bomb ................................ 9
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Jug Band Bomb ................................................ 11
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TNT (Trinitrotoluene) ........................................ 11
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Nitroglycerine ............................................... 13
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Dynamite ..................................................... 14
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Detonating Dynamite and TNT .................................. 15
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Bomb Containers .............................................. 15
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Polish Flairs ................................................ 15
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Household Chemicals and Their Composition .................... 16
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Generating Chlorine Gas ...................................... 16
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Chlorine and Turpentine ...................................... 16
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Generating Hydrogen Gas ...................................... 16
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Hydrogen and Chlorine ........................................ 17
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Iodine ....................................................... 17
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Grain Elevator Explosion ..................................... 17
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Where to Find Chemicals ...................................... 17
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Acetone Peroxide Explosive ................................... 18
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Fertilizer/Hydrazine Liquid Explosives ....................... 19
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RDX Explosive ................................................ 20
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Mini-Compound Detonators ..................................... 21
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Potassium Chlorate/Sugar Ignitor ............................. 23
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Stink Bomb ................................................... 24
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Cordite ...................................................... 25
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Page 1
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REBEL ALLIANCE MEGCATLINE
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Materials:
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79 Cent Bic lighter
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Needle-nose pliers
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Tin snips or wire cutters
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Procedure:
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First, rip the metal windguard off the lighter with the pliers and then
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then twist the little flame adjuster all the way to the right, and keep
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twisting until it won't move up anymore (stop and twist back if it starts
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hissing). There is a gap between the flame adjust and the plastic
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push-thing (it moves the nozzle up). You then flatten the wind-guard out
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and snip a notch in it big enough to fit around the nozzle.
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What you will do is you will fit the metal piece in the slot between
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the flame adjust and the plastic or the ring around the nozzle, which ever
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shows. The metal should be bent down, like the hose on a fire extinguisher.
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make sure the 'handle' is snug. You should glue carefully.
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You then hold the lighter backwards from how you would normally hold it,
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thumb-tab away. You will strike with your index finger. Practice.
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Depress the handle with your thumb. Strike, and have instant hell-fire!
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Enjoy!
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ø
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Bombs
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By: Lex Luthor
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¿
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FIREBOMBS
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Most fire bombs are simply gasoline filled bottles with a fuel soaked
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rag in the mouth (the bottle's mouth, not yours). The original Molotov
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cocktail, and still about the best, was a mixture of one part gasoline and
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one part motor oil. The oil helps it to cling to what it splatters on.
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Some use one part roofing tar and one part gasoline. Fire bombs have
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been found which were made by pouring melted wax into gasoline.
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NAPALM
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About the best fire bomb is napalm. It has a thick consistency, like
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jam and is best for use on vehicles or buildings.
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Napalm is simply one part gasoline and one part soap. The
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soap is
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either soap flakes or shredded bar soap. Detergents won't do.
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Page 2
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The gasoline must be heated in order for the soap to melt. The usual
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way is with a double boiler where the top part has at least a two-quart
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capacity. The water in the bottom part is brought to a boil and the double
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boiler is taken from the stove and carried to where there is no flame.
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Then one part, by volume, of gasoline is put in the top part and
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allowed to heat as much as it will and the soap is added and the
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mess is
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stirred until it thickens. A better way to heat gasoline is to fill a bath
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tub with water as hot as you can get it. It will hold its heat longer and
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permit a much larger container than will the double boiler.
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MATCH HEAD BOMB
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Simple safety match heads in a pipe, capped at both ends,
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make a
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devastating bomb. It is set off with a regular fuse.
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A plastic baggie is put into the pipe before the heads go in to prevent
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detonation by contact with the metal.
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Cutting enough match heads to fill the pipe can be tedious work for one
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but an evening's fun for the family if you can drag them away from the TV.
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FUSE IGNITION FIRE BOMB
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A four strand home made fuse is used for this. It burns like
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fury. It
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is held down and concealed by a strip of bent tin cut from a can. The
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exposed end of the fuse is dipped into the flare igniter. To use this one,
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you light the fuse and hold the fire bomb until the fuse has burned
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out of
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sight under the tin. Then throw it and when it breaks, the burning fuse will
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ignite the contents.
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ø
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Napalm Made Easy
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By Sir Knight
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¿
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Napalm is in itself a very simple substance... It can be used for many
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things (i.e. getting back at your neighbour!!). Here's what you need:
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Materials:
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Gasoline
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Joy or Palmolive (I prefer Joy)
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Ammonia pellets
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Drill
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Coke can
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Bendable wire
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Nail
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Procedure:
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First, make a mixture of 1/2 Joy, and 1/2 gasoline. Take the Coke can,
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and fill it half full with this wonderful mixture. It should look like
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this:
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Page 3
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¹^Õ^Õ^Õ^Õ^Õ^Õ^½
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<- Coke can
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XXXXXXXXXXXXX
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XXXXXXXXXXXXX
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XXXXXXXXXXXXX <-Mixture
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XXXXXXXXXXXXX
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¿
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Now, take the drill (or some sharp object) and put a hole through the
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ammonia pellet big enough for the nail. Put the nail through the pellet
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(which I might add can be picked up at any farm supply store) and wire that
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to the top of the can so the nail can be slipped out easily, allowing the
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pellet to drop. WARNING: Do not let that pellet fall into the
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mixture, as
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your wife will soon become a widow.
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ø
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CHEMIST'S CORNER ARTICLE #1: EXPLOSIVES
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¿
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By Zaphod Beeblebrox/MPG
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THIS ARTICLE DEALS WITH THE INSTRUCTIONS FOR CREATING SOME DANGEROUS
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EXPLOSIVES. IF YOU INTEND TO MAKE ANY OF THESE EXPLOSIVES, DO SO IN SMALL
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AMOUNTS ONLY, AS THEY ARE ALL DANGEROUS AND COULD SERIOUSLY INJURE OR KILL
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YOU IF DONE IN LARGER AMOUNTS. IF YOU DON'T KNOW ANYTHING ABOUT CHEMISTRY,
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DON'T DO THESE EXPERIMENTS! I AM NOT JOKING IN GIVING THIS WARNING. UNLESS
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YOU HAVE A DEATH WISH, YOU SHOULDN'T TRY ANY OF THE FOLLOWING UNLESS YOU
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HAVE HAD PRIOR EXPERIENCE WITH CHEMICALS.
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I. COMMON "WEAK" EXPLOSIVES
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A) Gunpowder:
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75% Potassium Nitrate
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15% Charcoal
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10% Sulfur
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The chemicals should be ground into a file powder (separately!)
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with a
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morter and pestle. If gunpowder is ignited in the open, it burns fiercely,
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but if in a closed space it builds up pressure from the released gases and
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can explode the container. Gunpowder works like this: The potassium
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nitrate oxidizes the charcoal and sulfur, which then burns fiercely. Carbon
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dioxide and sulfur dioxide are the gases released.
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B) Ammonal:
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Ammonal is a mixture of ammonium nitrate (a strong oxidizer) with
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aluminum powder (the 'fuel' in this case). I am not sure of the
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percentage of
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composition for ammonial, so you may want to experiment a little using small
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amounts.
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Page 4
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C) Chemically Ignited Explosives:
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Experiment 1:
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A mixture of 1 part potassium chlorate to 3 parts table sugar
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(sucrose) burns fiercely and brightly (similar to the burning of
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magnesium) when 1 drop of concentrated sulfuric acid is placed on
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it. What occurs is this: when the acid is added it reacts with
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the potassium chlorate to form chlorine dioxide, which explodes on
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formation, burning the sugar as well.
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Experiment 2:
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Using various chemicals, I have developed a mixture that works very
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well for imitating volcanic eruptions. I have given it the name 'MPG
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Volcanite'. Here it is: Potassium chlorate + potassium
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perchlorate +
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ammonium nitrate + ammonium dichromate + potassium nitrate +
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sugar +
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sulfur + iron filings + charcoal + zinc dust + some coloring agent.
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(Scarlet = strontium nitrate, Purple = Iodine crystals,
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Yellow =
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Sodium chloride, Crimson = Calcium chloride, etc).
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Experiment 3:
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So, do you think water puts out fires? In this one, it starts it!
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Mixture: Ammonium nitrate + ammonium chloride + iodine + zinc dust.
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When a drop or two of water is added, the ammonium nitrate forms nitric
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acid which reacts with the zinc to produce hydrogen and heat. The heat
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vaporizes the iodine (giving off purple smoke) and the ammonium
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chloride (becomes purple when mixed with iodine vapor). It also may
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ignite the hydrogen and begin burning.
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Ammonium nitrate: 8g
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Ammonium chloride: 1g
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Zinc dust: 8g
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Iodine crystals: 1g
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Experiment 4:
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Potassium permanganate + glycerine when mixed produces a purple-coloured
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flame in 30 seconds to 1 minute. Works best if the potassium
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permanganate is finely ground.
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Experiment 5:
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Calcium carbide + water releases acetylene gas (highly flammable gas
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used in blow torches).
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II. THERMITE REACTION
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The thermite reaction is used in welding, because it generates molten
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iron and temperatures of 3500 C (6000F+). It uses one of the previous
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reactions that I talked about to start it!
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Starter = Potassium chlorate + Sugar
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Main Part = Iron (III) oxide + Aluminum powder (325 mesh or finer)
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Page 5
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Put the potassium chlorate + sugar around and on top of the main part.
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To start the reaction place one drop of concentrated sulfuric acid on top
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of the starter mixture. Step back! The ratios are: 3 parts iron (III) oxide
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to 1 part aluminum powder to 1 part potassium chlorate to 1 part sugar. When
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you first do it, try 3G:1G:1G:1G! Also, there is an alternative starter for
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the thermite reaction. The alternative is potassium Permanganate + Glycerine.
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Amount: 55g Iron(III) oxide, 15g aluminum powder, 25g potassium permanganate,
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6ml glycerine.
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III. NITROGEN-CONTAINING HIGH EXPLOSIVES
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A) Mercury (II) Fulminate
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To produce mercury (II) Fulminate, a very sensitive shock explosive,
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one might assume that it could be formed by adding fulminic acid to
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mercury. This is somewhat difficult since fulminic acid is very unstable
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and cannot be purchased. I did some research and figured out a way to make
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it without fulminic acid. You add 2 parts nitric acid to 2 parts alcohol to
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1 part mercury. This is theoretical (I have not yet tried it) so please,
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if you try this, do it in VERY small amounts and tell me the results.
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B) Nitrogen Triiodide
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Nitrogen Triiodide is a very powerful and very shock sensitive
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explosive. Never store it and be careful when you're around it; sound, air
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movements, and other tiny things could set it off.
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Materials:
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2-3g Iodine
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15ml Concentrated ammonia
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8 Sheets of filter paper
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50ml beaker
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Feather mounted on a two meter pole
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Ear Plugs
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Tape
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Spatula
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Stirring Rod
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Procedure:
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Add 2-3g iodine to 15ml ammonia in the 50ml beaker. Stir, let stand for
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5 minutes. Do the following within 5 minutes: Retain the solid, decant
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the liquid (pour off the liquid but keep the brown solid). Scrape the brown
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residue of nitrogen triiodide onto a stack of four sheets of filter paper.
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Divide solid into four parts, putting each on a separate sheet of dry filter
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paper. Tape in position, leave to dry undisturbed for at least 30 minutes
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(preferably longer). To detonate, touch with feather (wear ear plugs when
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detonating or cover ears; it is very loud!).
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C) Cellulose Nitrate (Guncotton)
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Commonly known as smokeless powder, nitrocellulose is exactly
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that; it
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does not give off smoke when it burns.
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Page 6
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Materials:
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70ml Concentrated sulfuric acid
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30ml Concentrated nitric acid
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5g Absorbent cotton
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250ml 1M Sodium bicarbonate
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250ml beaker
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Ice bath
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Tongs
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Paper towels
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Procedure:
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Place 250ml beaker in the ice bath, add 70ml sulfuric acid, 30ml
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nitric acid. Divide cotton into 0.7g pieces. With tongs, immerse each piece
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in the acid solution for 1 minute. Next, rinse each piece in 3 successive
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baths of 500ml water. Use fresh water for each piece. Then
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immerse in
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250ml 1M Sodium Bicarbonate. If it bubbles, rinse in water once more until
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no bubbling occurs. Squeeze dry and spread on paper towels, compress it into
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cakes or blocks or gelatanize it with acetone. This is powerful stuff!
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D) Acetone Hydrogen Explosive:
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Materials:
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4ml Acetone
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4ml 30% hydrogen peroxide
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4 Drops concentrated hydrochloric acid
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150mm test tube
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Add 4ml acetone and 4ml hydrogen peroxide to the test tube. Then
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add 4 drops concentrated hydrochloric acid. In 10-20 minutes a white solid
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should begin to appear. If no change is observed, warm the test tube in a
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water bath at 40 Celsius. Allow the reaction to continue for two hours.
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Swirl the slurry and filter it. Leave out on filter paper to dry for at
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least two hours. To ignite, light a candle tied to a meter stick and light
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it (while standing at least a meter away).
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E) Smoke, Smoke, Smoke...
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The following reaction should produce a fair amount of smoke. Since
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this reaction is not all the dangerous, you can use larger amounts if
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necessary for larger amounts of smoke.
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6g Zinc powder
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1g Sulfur Powder
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Insert a red hot wire into the pile, step back. A lot of smoke should
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be created.
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Page 7
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ø
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RECIPE FOR A STANDARD PLASTIC EXPLOSIVE
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¿
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Method A:
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Materials:
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Gasoline - 1 part
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Oil - 1 half part
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Styrofoam - 1 part
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1) Melt styrofoam (remember NEVER at ANY time let the mixture get too hot)!
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NOTE: Do NOT inhale the fumes - they are deady!
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2) Let cool to a thick viscosity.
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3) Mix 3 ingredients together in the following order: Styrofoam, oil, & gas.
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4) Mix in a deep pot - Keep mixture away from any type of fire! Do this
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step with extreme caution!
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5) Let the mixture cool to a little bit warmer that room temperature, which
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is around 88 degrees Fahrenheit.
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6) Mold the mixture how you want (different shapes will make it
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more or
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less lethal).
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Dr. Booms Method:
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Materials:
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20ml gasoline
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5-10 plastic bags
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10ml oil or starter fluid
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50ml beaker or glass bowl
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gunpowder, guncotton or acetone hydrogen
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Procedure:
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Pour gas in glass container and add bags to gas and dissolve until fairly
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thick vicosity like melted marshmallow (actually, marshmallows would probably
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work just as well or better than plastic bags!) and add oil. Add bags again
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until very thick. Add the guncotton and mix well. Keep on adding strips
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of plastic until no more will dissolve and then pour in a mold.
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NOTE: It would a good idea to heat this stuff with a double boiler.
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Optional: You can add nuts, bolts, and screws while mixing, along with
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gunpowder, 2 M-80's or any other type of explosive to make it the
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equivalent of a Molotov cocktail, but be warned: The fragments (nuts,
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bolts, etc.) are deadly. They will penetrate a brick wall when the mixture
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is detonated.
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Page 8
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Detonation:
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1) The mixture can be thrown, but sometimes detonation does not occur.
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2) The mixture can be wired for an electric charge to be sent through
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it. It will detonate without doubt. A regular fuse can be sent through
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it also. If this method is used, some sort of timer is recommended.
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ø
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CREATION OF THERMITE!
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¿
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By Grey Wolf
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Thermite is a powerful substance which can burn through practically
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anything, save tungsten. It is especially of use in trying to crack open
|
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a fortress fone. How here's how you make it. It is very simple.
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The first step in making thermite is to make hematite. In laymans's
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terms, Hemetite is iron oxide (rust). Here is a good method of making
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large quantities of rust. You will electrolyze a metal rod, such
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as a
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common nail. You will need a source of DC power as well. An electric
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train transformer is perfect. Attach the rod to the positive wire. Then
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place the rod and the negative wire in opposite sides of a glass jar filled
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with water. Put a little salt in the water, just enough to make it conduct
|
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well (a teaspoon). Let the setup sit overnight. In the morning, there will
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be a dark red crud in the jar. Filter all the crud out of the water of just
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fish it out will a spoon. Now you will need to dry it out. Heat it in an
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iron pot until it all turns a nice light red.
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The other ingredient you will need is aluminum filings. You can
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either file down a bar of aluminum, or (as I suggest), but aluminum
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filings at your local hardware shop (if you buy the bar, use no less
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than 94% pure aluminum - it is called duralumin).
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That's almost it! Now, mix together the rust and aluminum filings.
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The ratio should be 8 grams of rust per 3 grams of aluminum filings. That's
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thermite!
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Now, to light it! Stick a length of magnesium ribbon in a pile of
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the thermite (either steal it from a chem lab or buy it at your local
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hardware store). If not, order from a chemical supply house. It's pretty
|
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cheap). The ribbon should stick into the thermite like a fuse.
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Now you light the magnesium with a blowtorch (don't worry, the torch
|
||
isn't hot enough to light the thermite). When the burning magnesium
|
||
reaches the thermite, it will light. When the thermite burns, get the
|
||
hell back! That stuff can vaporize carbon steel, and it does wonders on
|
||
human flesh!
|
||
|
||
|
||
Page 9
|
||
|
||
ø
|
||
HOW TO MAKE A 'REAL'
|
||
[> PIPE BOMB <]
|
||
¿
|
||
|
||
By Shootz Bootz
|
||
|
||
This file was written for INFORMATION PURPOSES ONLY, and NOT for
|
||
illegal use. The writer cannot be held responsible for anything you
|
||
do to yourself!!!! If there are any spelling or grammatical errors,
|
||
then FUCK OFF AND DIE cause I don't really care... my point is driven
|
||
across.
|
||
|
||
Well first of all in order to make a pipe bomb , you must first
|
||
have a pipe. It doesn't matter how big, or how small, you could use a
|
||
1 inch copper pipe, or you could use a 2 foot long drainage pipe. Once
|
||
you have this, you will need a few ingredients first. These
|
||
ingredients make a substance called 'flash powder'. This can be a lot
|
||
of fun if you make a pile of it about 1/4 lbs. and have your friend
|
||
light it with a match (some friend). Well, here's what you need:
|
||
|
||
1> Potassium Chlorate (get it at any chemical store)
|
||
2> Powdered Charcoal (not briquets, take some ash from the fire place)
|
||
3> Powdered Magnesium (ground up mag. fire starters from camping sections)
|
||
4> Sulfur (you know where to get this!)
|
||
5> Some kind of piping
|
||
6> Hot glue gun, or melted glue
|
||
7> Small drill bit and drill
|
||
8> Tissue paper (ie. Kleenex)
|
||
9> Mist water bottle + sprayer (Windex bottle, etc..)
|
||
|
||
The magnesium has to be FINE!!! The finer the faster! You can get
|
||
them in the camping sections of Caldor, and Sears. They look like a
|
||
block of aluminum on a key chain ($5.00 - $7.00 butthey go a long way!).
|
||
|
||
Now that you have the stuff, start the work. Find a drill bit
|
||
about the size of a pencil point, and drill a small hole about dead
|
||
center of the pipe, only drill thru one side of the pipe, don't drill
|
||
both sides. Now you should have a piece of pipe, with a small hole
|
||
drilled into it. After this, take some hot glue (hot glue gun or
|
||
such). Take a piece of regular paper (not tissue) and stuff it into
|
||
one end of the pipe, so it plugs up the hole, and is about 2cm into
|
||
the pipe. Now fill that end with melted glue over the paper, so its
|
||
about even with the pipe, and sit that down on another piece of paper.
|
||
Now you should have a pipe with a small hole in the center, and one end
|
||
with about 2 cm of glue on it, and 2 pieces of paper on either side of
|
||
the glue.
|
||
|
||
So far so good... now for the flash powder. Pour in the
|
||
potassium chlorate (largest amount). Then pour in the charcoal (a
|
||
little less than the chlorate). Pour this stuff into a grinding plate,
|
||
not the pipe. Now for the magnesium you filed off the block and ground
|
||
up finally, make this a bit less than the charcoal amount. Lastly
|
||
add the sulphur, only a little though, about half as much as the
|
||
magnesium you just put in. Now grind all the ingredients together
|
||
until they look like 1 grey dust. Try a little bit (no not the whole
|
||
damn thing! save that for the fun later!). Light it and see how fast it
|
||
goes off. Your gonna have to fiddle with it until it turns out the
|
||
|
||
Page 10
|
||
|
||
fastest (sounds like something else eh?).
|
||
|
||
Now that you have the flash powder ready, stick a piece of tape
|
||
over the small hole you drilled (so nothing spills out). Put the pipe
|
||
over a sheet of regular paper so you don't loose any of this precious
|
||
flash powder and start to poor it into the pipe. One the pipe seems
|
||
full, place a piece of paper over the opening in that end, and pack
|
||
that piece of paper, and the powder down into the pipe.
|
||
|
||
Take the paper out, and pour more powder in. Keep doing his
|
||
until its very well packed, and its almost full! Make sure that the
|
||
flash powder fills above the small hole you drilled! Now put a piece
|
||
of paper over the powder, and give it one last pack (a small rod, and
|
||
a hammer will do just fine, but make sure you don't get any sparks!!).
|
||
|
||
After that, pour in your final glue in the end you just packed,
|
||
make sure it fills to about 2 cm of glue in that end, over the paper!
|
||
Stick another piece of paper over that end (just glued) and let it
|
||
dry, but when drying put it on a flat surface so it hardens flat!
|
||
|
||
While your waiting for it to dry, take your tissue paper, and lie
|
||
it down flat on the table, over a piece of cardboard or something if
|
||
its a good table!! Now mix some water with the flash powder (about
|
||
1/2-1/2 mix). No it won't kill the powder. Now shake up the
|
||
bottle, and spray the tissue paper with the mixture Let it dry, and
|
||
repeat the sequence. After about 4 shots on 1 side, repeat on the
|
||
other side (flip the tissue paper). Continue this until your liking.
|
||
When this is done, and the tissue paper is dry, tear/cut off a small
|
||
sheet, roll it, and light it.
|
||
|
||
If you like it, then fine, if not, then keep spraying it. If you
|
||
like to, before rolling it, pour in some flash powder (not too
|
||
much!!!) and roll it like a joint. Then twist it. You now have a
|
||
fuse (really?!?!). Make sure its long!!
|
||
|
||
Now for the final assembly. Take the tape off the small hole you
|
||
drilled, and poke thru the powder with a pencil point/ice pick or
|
||
whatever (or the drill bit!). If you REALLY want to, then put a drop
|
||
of glue to hold the fuse in better, but you don't have to!! (not too
|
||
much!). Now make sure the glue has hardened for about 1 hour or so
|
||
until its rock hard (no ideas!).
|
||
|
||
You are now the proud owner of a home made PIPE BOMB. Great for
|
||
parties/special occasions, weddings, Russians, mail boxes and anything
|
||
else you want to do. When you light this bomb, point the end in the
|
||
direction you are gonna be running in, and don't throw it (unless your
|
||
crazy, and in that case, I don't give a shit!) so it doesn't frag in
|
||
your face!!
|
||
|
||
If you really want to fancy it up, you can always use threaded
|
||
steel end caps!!!!!!
|
||
|
||
Well I hope you enjoyed your fun today, and happy bomb making!
|
||
|
||
Be safe (hehehe)
|
||
|
||
|
||
Page 11
|
||
|
||
¹ÕÕÕÕÕÕÕÕÕÕÕÕÕÕÕÕÕÕÕÕÕÕÕÕÕÕÕÕÕÕÕÕÕÕÕÕÕ½
|
||
THE JUG BAND BOMB
|
||
BY: THE GRAY MOUSER
|
||
ÕÕÕÕÕÕÕÕÕÕÕÕÕÕÕÕÕÕÕÕÕÕÕÕÕÕÕÕÕÕÕÕÕÕÕÕÕæ
|
||
|
||
This one is short and sweet:
|
||
|
||
1) Get hold of a glass jug, put in a few drops of gasoline and cap the top.
|
||
|
||
3) Now turn the jug around to coat the inner surfaces and evaporates.
|
||
|
||
4) Add a few drops of potassium permanganate (you can get this real easy
|
||
from a snake-bite kit).
|
||
|
||
5) The bomb is detonated by throwing or forcibly rolling it against a
|
||
solid object.
|
||
|
||
When this sucker goes off, it is the same as half stick of dynamite.
|
||
|
||
ø
|
||
HOW TO MAKE TNT
|
||
¿
|
||
|
||
Probably the most important explosive compound in use today is TNT
|
||
(trinitrotoluene). This and other very similar types of high ex-
|
||
plosives are all used by the military, because of their fantastic
|
||
power, about 2.25 millions pounds per square inch, and their great
|
||
stability. TNT also has the great advantage of being able to be
|
||
melted at 82 degrees F., so that it can be poured into shells,
|
||
mortars, or any other projectiles. Military TNT comes in containers
|
||
which resemble dry cell batteries, and are usually ignited by an
|
||
electrical charge, coupled with an electrical blasting cap, although
|
||
there are other methods.
|
||
|
||
Preparation of TNT:
|
||
|
||
1 - Take two beakers. In the first prepare a solution of 76 percent
|
||
sulfuric acid, 23 percent nitric acid and 1 percent water. In
|
||
the other beaker, prepare another solution of 57 percent nitric
|
||
acid and 43 percent sulfuric acid (percentages are on a weight
|
||
ratio rather than volume).
|
||
|
||
2 - Ten grams of the first solutions are poured into an empty beaker
|
||
and placed in an ice bath.
|
||
|
||
3 - Add ten grams of toluene, and stir for several minutes.
|
||
|
||
4 - Remove this beaker from the ice bath and gently heat until it
|
||
reaches 50 degrees C. The solution is stirred constantly while
|
||
being heated.
|
||
|
||
5 - Fifty additional grams of the acid, from the first beaker, are
|
||
added and the temperature is held for the next ten minutes, and
|
||
an oily liquid will begin to form on the top of the acid.
|
||
|
||
Page 12
|
||
|
||
6 - After 10 or 12 minutes, the acid solution is returned to the ice
|
||
bath, and cooled to 45 degrees C. When reaching this
|
||
temperature, the oily liquid will sink and collect at the bottom
|
||
of the beaker. At this point, the remaining acid solution
|
||
should be drawn off, by using a syringe.
|
||
|
||
7 - Fifty more grams of the first acid solution are added to the
|
||
oily liquid while the temperature is SLOWLY being raised to 83
|
||
degrees C. After this temperature is reached, it is maintained
|
||
for a full half hour.
|
||
|
||
8 - At the end of this period, the solution is allowed to cool to 60
|
||
degrees C, and is held at this temperature for another full
|
||
half hour. After this, the acid is again drawn off, leaving once
|
||
more only the oily liquid at the bottom.
|
||
|
||
9 - Thirty grams of sulfuric acid are added, while the oily liquid
|
||
is gently heated to 80 degrees C. All temperature increases
|
||
must be accomplished slowly and gently.
|
||
|
||
10 - Once the desired temperature is reached, 30 grams of the second
|
||
acid solution are added, and the temperature is raised from 80
|
||
degrees C to 104 degrees C, and is held for three hours.
|
||
|
||
11 - After this three hour period, the mixture is lowered to 100
|
||
degrees C and held there for a half hour.
|
||
|
||
12 - After this half hour, the oil is removed form the acid and
|
||
washed with boiling water.
|
||
|
||
13 - After the washing with boiling water, while being stirred
|
||
constantly, the TNT will begin to solidify.
|
||
|
||
14 - When the solidification has started, cold water is added to the
|
||
beaker, so that the TNT will form into pellets. Once this is
|
||
done, you have a good quality TNT.
|
||
|
||
NOTE: The temperatures used in the preparation of TNT are EXACT, and
|
||
must be used as such. DO NOT estimate or use approximations.
|
||
Buy a good centigrade thermometer.
|
||
|
||
The author take NO RESPONSIBILITY for any damage to persons or
|
||
property for this formula. It is supplied for STUDY PURPOSES ONLY.
|
||
|
||
|
||
Page 13
|
||
|
||
ø
|
||
NITROGLYCERIN
|
||
¿
|
||
|
||
by Dr. Boom
|
||
|
||
WARNING: This stuff is very dangerous, wear goggles at ALL times and
|
||
for God's sake don't SNEEZE while making it!
|
||
|
||
Materials:
|
||
|
||
Glass bowl and glass rod
|
||
Water (lots of it)
|
||
Sulfuric acid
|
||
Nitric Acid
|
||
Glycerin
|
||
Refrigerator
|
||
|
||
Make sure you get a GLASS bowl and stirring rod. The Sulfuric acid
|
||
and Nitric acid are about 5 bucks each at a chemical warehouse and you
|
||
can get the glycerin from a clear, yellow/brown bar of soap from a
|
||
health food store (i.e. - Cardish).
|
||
|
||
Procedure:
|
||
|
||
Carefully mix equal amounts of the acids in a glass bowl of 2 parts
|
||
water to 3 parts of the mixture of acid. Put mixture and bar of glycerine
|
||
soap in the fridge by the milk (don't freeze the damn thing!) and leave it
|
||
for 2 hours. Since the mixture won't blow up until 15 C, the fridge's temp-
|
||
erature (5 C) will prevent detonation (and we don't want THAT to happen,
|
||
or at least not NOW). Shred the soap to a flaky powder and dissolve it in
|
||
the acid solution (and KEEP it in the fridge ALWAYS, or ELSE!). Leave it
|
||
in the fridge for 5 days (since this process takes a long time), and after
|
||
5 days you should have an oily yellow substance (which is quite lethal),
|
||
and some liquid acid left. Skim off the excess acid to leave only the
|
||
thick yellow gunk (nitro) and add lots of water to it (don't drown it or
|
||
you're fucked) and put it back in the fridge until you need it - never
|
||
keep it out of the fridge too long (and make sure it's not eaten for
|
||
dinner). It can be detonated by dropping it, throwing it, shaking it,
|
||
by sneezing on it, or with an electrical charge (such as a timer).
|
||
|
||
You might want to soak it in sawdust or something similar so it won't
|
||
blow up as easily if you happen to accidentally bump it or something.
|
||
|
||
|
||
Page 14
|
||
|
||
ø
|
||
DYNAMITE
|
||
¿
|
||
|
||
by Dr. Boom
|
||
|
||
DANGER: Dynamite is highly explosive (although great fun), and we suggest
|
||
that if you actually attempt to make this - make it in very low
|
||
quantities so you don't blow the roof off your house. Also use
|
||
extreme caution if you live in an earthquake zone!
|
||
|
||
Materials:
|
||
|
||
thermometer
|
||
glass bowls
|
||
stirring rods
|
||
nitroglycerin
|
||
newspaper or Kieselguhr
|
||
sodium, potassium, or ammonium nitrate
|
||
guncotton, gunpowder or plastic explosives
|
||
cotton and cardboard
|
||
detonator (see below)
|
||
|
||
Newspaper is used here, but originally you use Kieselguhr (a porous
|
||
silica substance) but the book says that newspaper works just as well.
|
||
With the silica substance it is more like plastic, with wood pulp it is
|
||
more like paper mache.
|
||
|
||
Procedure:
|
||
|
||
First soak strips of newspaper overnight so they become mushy and then
|
||
mush it in your hands (isn't this fun?!?) until it becomes more like a
|
||
paste (you can do that with the blender set on liquify to speed things up).
|
||
Keep the nitroglycerine in the fridge at all times!
|
||
|
||
Collect the pulpwith a strainer and let it dry slightly and then add on
|
||
add on the chemicals listed above (except for the nitroglycerine) with pulp
|
||
being 2 parts and the chemicals being 1 part (ratio 2:1). Mix well.
|
||
|
||
Almost done! Now put it in the fridge for an hour and then pour 1 part
|
||
nitroglycerine and 1.5 parts mixture (ratio 1:1.5) and use the thermometer
|
||
to make sure everything is below 15 C.
|
||
|
||
Now make a cardboard tube 3 inches long with a radius of 1cm. Put
|
||
cotton in one end as a plug and pour in the dynamite until it is 2/3
|
||
full (2" down the tube) and leave it in a safe (DRY) place where it can
|
||
dry peacefully and pray that there isn't an earthquake!
|
||
|
||
When it's dry, fill the remaining 1 inch (1/3) with either gunpowder,
|
||
guncotton or plastic explosives and cap the top and stick in a fuse, which
|
||
should be wires with a rocket igniter at the end connected to a copper wire
|
||
a L O N G distance away to a power source. You can also use a timer,
|
||
but DON'T LIGHT the damn thing!
|
||
|
||
Be careful with this stuff unless you want to join AstroBoy - the
|
||
pressure given off is about 2 million pounds per square inch.
|
||
|
||
Page 15
|
||
|
||
DETONATING TNT AND DYNAMITE
|
||
|
||
by Dr. Boom
|
||
|
||
Even though TNT and Dynamite are powerful explosives, to set them
|
||
off you need a smaller explosion or a charge. For the shock needed to set
|
||
them off, plastic explosives can be used. It's easy to make and quite
|
||
powerful. Let's say you use TNT: There's the two basic ways to do it.
|
||
If you want to use a ping pong ball, fill it half way with TNT and fill
|
||
the other half with plastic explosives. Since your using small amounts of
|
||
TNT, you can use a LONG fuse (at least 1 foot) of magnesium ribbon
|
||
as a fuse, but never put it under a car or it'll blow it up (yes, it's
|
||
still pretty damn powerful).
|
||
|
||
If you're a little nuts and decide to make a large charge, I would
|
||
recomment using an electronic detonator or timer. Well, I hope you
|
||
enjoy your bomb making (if you ever go to the CN tower, bring a little
|
||
ball of Dynamite or TNT and drop it and 30 seconds later, enjoy the
|
||
fireworks -the shock is strong enough to detonate it. A penny will
|
||
penetrate 1 food into concrete!).
|
||
|
||
BOMB CONTAINERS
|
||
|
||
by Dr. Boom
|
||
|
||
Drill a hole in a ping pong ball and fill it up with plastic
|
||
explosives. If you're lucky enough to live in a high rise apartment, do
|
||
this: Take your ping pong ball bomb and put a magnesium ribbon fuse
|
||
(1 foot long) in the ball (you can add BB pellets) and light it at
|
||
midnight and throw it down!
|
||
|
||
The foot long fuse should should give it 30 seconds to Dr. Boom Doom
|
||
Time. I bet you a buck you'll wake up the neighbourhood!
|
||
|
||
Or, go to a mall and pour gunpowder in an ashtray with the sand
|
||
in it. Put lots just under the surface and put a small ball of plastic
|
||
explosives. Too bad you can't see the face of the person who tried
|
||
to put out his cigarette! I bet he'll fucking stop smoking right away!
|
||
|
||
Try thick rolled up cardboard cylinders and fill them up with your
|
||
favourite explosive.
|
||
|
||
POLISH FLAIRS
|
||
|
||
Materials:
|
||
|
||
Potassium nitrate (saltpeter)
|
||
Sucrose (sugar)
|
||
Napkin
|
||
|
||
Procedure:
|
||
|
||
Mix equal amounts on a napkin and ignite it. It will flare up
|
||
and smoke. NOTE: Do not inhale the smoke - it is hazardous!
|
||
|
||
|
||
Page 16
|
||
|
||
I. LIST OF HOUSEHOLD CHEMICALS AND THEIR COMPOSITION
|
||
|
||
Household Product Chemical Compounds
|
||
|
||
|
||
Vinegar �œxåvm§2(OoÛ³¾'Ûùc-Z|îæê�Ë7Ï=¹øxöÙÒ^þØ@2^Ý(ÿþ•^¥Ÿ!"£&ÃãÞF½¶³´
|
||
Ä ;×.ƒ€–lÉåÙÊú=£¿Ôî<ßXz¶²_<Òl�lñN.Í
|
||
2Îs-
|
||
]
|
||
ô”eîƒA̸
|
||
–ìHŠ‘Çbõ ?OíÔZµjsþxÆ-P«O‹Û™»õ/=+gÜ\*ôW\íD=äÓYÿL
|
||
Îh`GŒˆzþµóÚ“ÂO~éƹÝÔ
|
||
™Àà^茚B°¼Y±øéFöåúÃo~us½¥
|
||
r�ÂQÎäÆ̸˜ùÚ÷¯~|y{
|
||
™ìÈN’À U©_~oáǤV¯í]Ù¹¼]{wa<ëbžê
|
||
™¢&
|
||
ëÄp³g·ŒvµçïžkÔÚh‘ˆÃ¢!�E6¥¥Y‹„©:B€Ë!Í
|
||
|
||
™x5}
|
||
D
|
||
‡‚ËA
|
||
|
||
|
||
íõ4¾å'Õú\½hÌB`ÔîmÜ«ÝZú“«»PJp$¶zfÙS›²-�sãEÒEíäw¬l´þ�Úzãqî½ï|øüær�ÃeS“l
|
||
ŽGžÙ
|
||
H¤ZFÞçÙ‰Wð
|
||
í¥Ö)°Ñ‹&,Ô¢¤€dÏö*ÛË[Og�ÊC�Uõ––
|
||
ÓùÓ·?üòîj7<8ól½£ux‹¡9
|
||
+¾P
|
||
‘è\Q¨ÍS}oûÊÖâqí¤Ô*8z4…IÐüÄ1g¹C
|
||
º ÓÖ§0ŽŒ‰„\¬G™qÆ
|
||
£5&œrÎhT·–vf�æÛ¼èƒ×7öW÷e˼SB¼Þ\ùˆGš5NAFȾ,Ã
|
||
®ÏwõC�æÛ³OºÕ੧&¡?PÉ4ÚîTŽ
|
||
k
|
||
|
||
r™K?\mÈMÝŒ éG˜4¤Ô©´*õS^f±keB‘
|
||
ÂwéÓÕÝÕDz„a}Ey¥ááàÞ[7¾õáéO¾T¯vÔ
|
||
|
||
|
||
|
||
öÝ–E>IÓ�xœ”_Ú/„P½/c³äìþÙÆ
|
||
½
|
||
YX5»¸WÙ…âx
|
||
’sÃ…Åàg<!
|
||
ﬥŒÀØ
|
||
�†rþË·*{±`kìha¶
|
||
ëljKÙÛz¹9 ã+{•�§ÖK{«¢6 °ÚœîR�JÓOm×~xá
|
||
M4«{ëÛk
|
||
Ͳ%C.H¹ ¦ÃZv[ƒóÝ.ï—Oj
|
||
éɃ+p„UêÕæJÇèËćC©¾Ø
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|
||
killer it is more powerful and more brisant than C-4. However you
|
||
need a blasting cap to detonate or a homemade compound detonator.
|
||
Namely Acetone Peroxide detonators can be used here or Mini-Compound
|
||
Detonators.
|
||
Materials: Ammonium Nitrate Fertilizer (no less than -
|
||
Farm and Feed Stores 32% Nitrogen) or pure Anhydrous Hydrazine
|
||
- Chemical Supply House (Be careful with
|
||
this one it is very reactive!!!) Large Mixing Container GLASS stirring
|
||
rod Storage Container w/tight lid Blasting Cap or Compound Detonator
|
||
|
||
Procedure: NOTE: mixing these two is the same as baking soda and vinegar
|
||
so the reaction is very effervescent & can bubble over the top so use
|
||
a jar 6 times the volume of the Hydrazine! Also large volumes of
|
||
ammonia gas are released when these two are mixed so wear a gas mask
|
||
or be upwind of the mixing. 1) Pour into the container the an amount
|
||
of Anhyrdrous Hydrazine equal to the amount of explosive required.
|
||
2) Ammonium Nitrate Prilled or Powdered is added a teaspoon at a
|
||
time to the container, then wait for it to dissolve (stirring constantly),
|
||
& then add more. 3) Continue the above process until the ammonium
|
||
nitrate no longer dissolves into the hydrazine, and don't worry
|
||
about the small amount of ammonium nitrate left over. 4)
|
||
Now your basically done and you have an explosive more powerful than
|
||
any military explosive.
|
||
Page 20
|
||
5) To make it more powerful add 20% aluminum powder to the mixture
|
||
(100 mesh or finer)
|
||
Uses: This mixture has unique absorption and retention properties,
|
||
and can be poured directly on the ground for a liquid land mine.
|
||
This type of land mine is totally disguised and cannot be noticed,
|
||
and all you need to do is bury compound detonator in the ground,
|
||
which can be detonated by a step switch etc. This type of land
|
||
mine remains detonatable for up to four days regardless of rain etc...
|
||
It can also be poured into a container and used as a bomb.
|
||
ø
|
||
RDX Explosive
|
||
¿ Jack
|
||
The Ripper
|
||
The reason I wrote this is because the other file I saw on how to
|
||
make RDX was so shabby and lame it was probably written by an eight
|
||
year old mental patient. So here is mine easy! Straightforward! Comprehendible
|
||
!
|
||
Materials: Hexamethylenetetramine (drug stores under Hexamin, Urotropine,
|
||
& Methenamine) Strong Nitric Acid (chemical supply house or some hardware
|
||
stores) Acetone (drug stores and hardware stores) Scale with gram accuracy
|
||
Graduated Cylinder (cc or ml) or measuring cups Thermometer 20-100 degrees
|
||
Celsius or 68-212 degrees Fahrenheit Several large quart canning jars
|
||
Two large basins or bowls made of metal or some other heatable metal
|
||
Paper Towels
|
||
Procedure: 1) Place one half cup or 120 ml or cc of nitric acid
|
||
in a large canning jar and bring the temperature to between 20
|
||
and 30 degrees Celsius (68-86 F) by putting the jar in a basin
|
||
of cold water. 2) Keep the thermometer in the jar so you can
|
||
closely maintain the temperature between your basins of hot
|
||
and cold water. 3) Weigh out 70 grams by weight or 18 teaspoons by
|
||
volume of hexamin. Then start adding the hexamin slowly at 1/2
|
||
teaspoon at a time over a 15 minute time period. All the while
|
||
maintaining the temperature between 20 and 30 degrees celcius
|
||
by moving it in and out of the cold water basins. 4) When all the
|
||
hexamin is dissolved in the acid heat the solution to 55 degrees
|
||
Celsius (131 F) by placing the jar in a basin of hot water. Then
|
||
maintain this temperature for about ten minutes.
|
||
Page 21
|
||
5) Now remove the jar from the basin of hot water and place it in
|
||
the basin of cold water and cool the jar to 20 degrees Celsius
|
||
(68 F). Now when the solution reaches 20 degrees Celsius add 3
|
||
cups (750ml) of cold water and white salt will appear. 6) Now
|
||
the white salt is RDX and should be handled with care. Now filter
|
||
the Acid/Water/RDX solution through a paper towel covering
|
||
the mouth of another jar. 7) Wash the RDX crystals off the paper
|
||
towel and add an additional 3 cups of fresh cold water & a teaspoon
|
||
of sodium carbonate to neutralize the acid. Now stir rapidly for
|
||
3 minutes and then filter it out again. 8) It is now usable, but I
|
||
prefer purifying it by filling a quart canning jar 2/3 full of
|
||
acetone & heating the acetone then adding the RDX crystals to
|
||
it a half teaspoon at a time until it completely dissolves in the acetone.
|
||
9) Now that it is all dissolved let the solution cool to room temperature
|
||
and let it stand for one hour. The RDX will then precipitate again
|
||
into it's salt. Then you must filter it through a paper towel
|
||
around another jar rinse it with cold water the same way you
|
||
did before. Now you have the finished product roughly 1 and
|
||
1/2 ounces of RDX. 10) Now store your finished product (after it dries)
|
||
in ajar with an air tight lid for future use. Seeing that RDX
|
||
does not lose it's effectiveness for months.
|
||
Uses: RDX is a very powerful explosive however it can be compressed
|
||
into tubes to make detonators. Later in this newsletter I will prescribe
|
||
a method for making detonators in which RDX will be used along
|
||
with other explosives before mentioned. RDX however is sensitive
|
||
to friction, and can be used as an explosive by itself. It is
|
||
also commonly referred to as Clyclonite.
|
||
|
||
ø
|
||
Mini-Compound Detonator
|
||
¿
|
||
Jack The Ripper This is basically a tutorial in making detonators,
|
||
and there are a few rules, that I would like each & every one of you
|
||
to follow. Making detonators is very dangerous considering that the
|
||
purpose of detonators is for them to be sensitive and easily detonated,
|
||
so be careful. Also the detonators I am telling you how to make
|
||
are small, but the same principle can be applied on larger scale.
|
||
|
||
Page
|
||
22
|
||
Materials: Name
|
||
Source --------------------------------------------------------------------------
|
||
---- Empty .22 Magnum shells or copper/brass/aluminum Gun stores
|
||
or hard- tubing 1/4 inch in diameter and 1 inch long. These ware
|
||
stores tubes must also be closed at one end. A substantial quantity
|
||
of Secondary Explosive i.e. RDX PETN is the center (amount depends
|
||
on how many detonators you intend to filling of detonating made)
|
||
PETN can be substituted here. cords. A substantial
|
||
quantity of primary explosive i.e. Mercury Fulminate or Acetone Peroxide.
|
||
An ignition charge of black powder. Gun stores
|
||
FFF black powder.
|
||
A loading press (commonly used for reloading shells Gun stores
|
||
also please be safe considering a few of these detonators may
|
||
detonate when being compressed, so take the neccessary precautions
|
||
such as safety glasses etc...)
|
||
Procedure: NOTE: dirt or oil may sensitive the detonators to an
|
||
unsafe level so when handling the primary & secondary & ingnition charges
|
||
use tongs. Also boil bucket of water in the room as humidity helps
|
||
or if your in a house turn your shower on hot and leave it on! 1)
|
||
Now light a candle, and let two drops of wax drip into each
|
||
shell casing before use. Then let the wax cool down. 2) Now
|
||
fill the casing to a depth of 1/4 inch with RDX or PETN, and then
|
||
GENTLY and SLOWLY insert the ram and compress the explosive
|
||
slowly and evenly. Now remove the ram slowly and carefully.
|
||
3) Continue this process adding small amounts of RDX or PETN
|
||
until column of secondary explosive 5/8 of an inch high has
|
||
been pressed into the 1 inch shell casing. 4) Now add a small
|
||
amount of Primary explosive the same way you added the secondary
|
||
explosive on top of the secondary explosive. Now add the
|
||
Mercury Fulminate or Acetone Peroxide on top of the 5/8 inch column
|
||
of secondary explosive and compress it with the ram until
|
||
it reaches height of primary explosive 1/4 inch high. 5)
|
||
Now compress the remaining 1/8 of an inch with black powder. Now
|
||
seal the top with wax paper or tape until ready for use.
|
||
|
||
Page
|
||
23
|
||
Diagram: - +++++
|
||
| |@@@@| | |****|
|
||
| |****| | |####|
|
||
1 Inch ------< |####| | |####|
|
||
| |####| |
|
||
|####| | |----|
|
||
- |====|
|
||
@ - Black Powder (Ignition Charge) * - Mercury Fulminate or Acetone
|
||
Peroxide (Primary Charge) # - RDX or PETN (Secondary Charge) - - Two
|
||
drops of wax on Bottom + - Tape covering top = - The bottom of shell
|
||
casing | - Sides of .22 Magnum Shell Uses: These little beauties
|
||
can be used for almost any purpose or a larger version can be used where
|
||
a hard to detonate substance is used. Their main use is for miniature
|
||
hand grenades and other small explosives.
|
||
ø
|
||
Potassium Chlorate/Sugar Ignitor
|
||
¿
|
||
Jack The Ripper
|
||
This ignitor is one of my many favorites, it can be ignited by
|
||
either concentrated sulfuric or nitric acids. It also works excellently
|
||
as a time delay, which I will detail later.
|
||
Materials: Potassium Chlorate (drug stores and chemical supply houses)
|
||
(Granulated) Sugar (grocery store) Measuring Container (cup, tablespoon,
|
||
etc...) Storage Container w/tight fitting lid Mixing Container w/tight
|
||
fitting lid 2 flat boards (1 large 36x36 & the other small so it can
|
||
be held in the hand)
|
||
Procedure: 1) Spread handful at a time the potassium chlorate on
|
||
the large board and rub with the other flat board or a rolling
|
||
pin until the particles resemble granulated sugar.
|
||
Page 24
|
||
|
||
2) Now measure out 2 parts by volume of sugar into the container,
|
||
and then add 3 parts by volume of the Potassium Chlorate to the
|
||
container. Now recap the container and shake the mixture for
|
||
4-5 minutes until it has a uniform color and consistency. 3)
|
||
Store for future use in an air tight container, but remember to
|
||
shake it up before use to re-mix any settled particles.
|
||
Uses: Now for a delayed reaction place the acid in a gelatin
|
||
capsule and bury the gelatin capsule in the Potassium Chlorate mixture.
|
||
Depending on how many gelatin capsules you use & their size depends
|
||
on the delay. It can range from 20 minutes to and hour or more. This
|
||
type of ignitor reaches a temperature of 3,200 degrees Fahrenheit and
|
||
can ignite most incendiaries. It can also be compacted into a
|
||
pipe to create a low power pipe bomb.
|
||
|
||
STINK BOMB
|
||
by Dr. Boom If you want more life in your party
|
||
(or break it up), you have to try this.
|
||
Materials: Aerosol can of whipcream Plastic
|
||
bags, styrofoam... Magnesium ribbon 5ml
|
||
gas Matches
|
||
Procedure(s): Part Buy a can of whipcream (the kind in
|
||
the aerosol can) and leave it under your bed for a week for it to
|
||
spoil. Press the nozzle for seconds, it can avacuate a whole room
|
||
from the stench (think what 10 seconds can do)! Part Take
|
||
5ml of gas, and add to it plastic (like bads, styrofoam, etc) until
|
||
it won't dissolve anymore or so thick it won't run. Take the cap
|
||
off the can and wrap the nozzle 2 times with magnesium ribbon. Leave
|
||
1foot for the fuse and take the plastic gas and form it around the
|
||
nozzle and light the fuse and run. Watch the fireworks and asked
|
||
who squeezed the cheese!).
|
||
|
||
Page
|
||
25 CORDITE
|
||
by Dr. Boom Materials: Guncotton
|
||
Nitroglycerine Acetone Petroleum
|
||
jelly Procedure:
|
||
Cordite is a smokeless explosive - you take your guncotton, mix
|
||
it with nitroglycerine, petroleum jelly and a little acetone and
|
||
let it dry and then you have cordite! You can use it by itself or
|
||
with other charges. Have fun!
|
||
|