textfiles/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/lowgrade.txt

***  Low Grade Explosives  ***
***(and their various uses)***
         Lady Isabel

(And you thought only guys liked to blow things up.)

Thanks to:

+>Black Unicorn
+>Uni (Dark)

(Be aware, all of the formulas and methods listed herein involve 
class "A" explosives. They are dangerous and can result in injury or 
fatality or both.  Use at your own risk.  Safety first.)


For ease of use, safety, stability, and versatility, you can't beat 
low grade explosives.

	If you're reading this file, chances are you're not satisfied 
with the mostly complex and dangerous processes documented in the 
assorted files floating around, most of which are based on something 
the author read from some other text file and who knows where the 
author of that text file got his information anyway.  Not to say 
that there are not some extremely informative and well written files 
on high grade detonating explosives, but I'm sure you will agree 
that they are the exception rather than the rule.  Most files try to 
cover too much ground and end up sacrificing important details in 
the long run.  If you're still alive and have all your fingers, you 
know enough to avoid these vague files, and you've keyed in the 
right filename.  All the practical information in this file is based 
on PERSONAL EXPERIENCE that I have had with these compounds and 
their use.

	Unlike High Grade (concussion) explosives which detonate, low 
grade explosives deflagrate (Burn extremely quickly).  High grade 
explosives include RDX, C-4, and TNT.  Low grade explosives include 
most ammonium nitrate mixtures, gunpowder and flashpowder and are 
usually two component compounds composed of a high oxidizer and a 
fine "fuel" powder.  Technically what I refer to in this file as 
"Low Grade Explosives" are not explosives in the true sense of the 
word at all, but with knowledge, they often can be utilized in a way 
such to produce much the same effect.

	The uses of low grade explosives.

	Low grade explosives do not have the concussion ability of 
high grade explosives.  Because of this they cannot be used for the 
following:

	1.  Demolition of re-enforced structures.
		(Steel, concrete, brick)

	2.  Shaped charges or dampening demolition.
		(Sandbag dampers, safe cracking)

	3.  Level one booby traps.
		(Rigged toys, lightbulbs, etc.)

	Low grade explosives release the majority of their non-heat 
energy in the form of sound and local overpressure.  This makes them 
perfect for the following applications.

	1.  Demolition of pseudo-airtight structures.
		(Newspaper machines, mailboxes)

	2.  Demolition of glass or partial glass structures.
		(Cars, windows, small rooms)

	3.  Low level anti-personal devices.
		(Stun grenades, nail grenades.)

	Characteristics of low grade explosives manufacture.

	Low grade explosives are really only fast burning powders 
enclosed in an airtight or pseudo-airtight container.  Firecrackers 
are a fine example.  Removed from the paper wrapping, the powder 
used in typical firecrackers will do no more than burn.  Enclosed, a 
degree of overpressure effect is created and the effect is 
noticeably more violent.  The power of a low grade explosive is 
dependent in part on the strength of the container used.  The 
stronger the container, the higher the pressure buildup before 
rupture and "detonation."  It is easy to see that a cardboard 
container will produce less effect than a pipe like container.
	The amount of powder used yields a marginal return.  That is 
to say, after a point increase in the amount of powder added will 
result in less increase in "yield."  Generally, the amount of powder 
used should be about twice the minimum amount needed to rupture the 
container.  After this point, additional powder will only result in 
increased light/burn effects, as most of the powder will be unburned 
as the container ruptures.  Unfortunately, the subjective nature of 
container construction and powder formula makes determining the 
exact amount of powder more of an art than a science.  Trial and 
error is the only tried and true method.
	Mixing the powder itself is also a rather subjective process.  
If you are expecting to just pour two chemicals together and light 
the result, read another file.  Care must be taken to achieve the 
desired effect.

	Selecting powder formulas.

	The formula used is really a matter of personal choice.  More 
or less the selection of formula is based on what is available and 
cheap, but there are important side effects to formula selections.  
Below is a partial list of workable oxidizers:


Potassium Perchlorate
Potassium Chlorate
Potassium Nitrate
Potassium Permanganate
Sodium Chlorate
Barium Nitrate

and Fuels:

Aluminum Powder
Magnesium Powder
Zinc Powder
Sugar


	The combinations you choose are a matter of choice and 
availability but some mixtures can produce undesirable effects.  
Many of the Chlorate based mixtures can be highly friction 
sensitive. (Sodium Chlorate and Potassium Chlorate are examples in 
this category)  As a rule, I prefer to use Potassium Perchlorate and 
Potassium Permanganate as oxidizers.  Aluminum powder tends to be 
the cheapest and best burning fuel, but Magnesium produces by far 
the best light effects and is preferable when construction flash 
bombs or stun grenades.  For a rundown on mixtures and their 
properties read the file "The Art of Making M-80's and M-100's"  It 
has a wealth of accurate information on specific characteristics of 
several mixtures.  The two mixtures I will emphasize are Potassium 
Perchlorate and Aluminum Powder and Potassium Permanganate with 
Aluminum Powder.  The key to a powerful mix is surface area.  
Aluminum powder should be at least 400 mesh, but between 600 and 
1000 mesh is preferable.  The finer the metal powder, the faster the 
burn.  If at all possible use 600+ mesh powder.  You will be much 
better off with finer powder, believe me.  Potassium Permanganate 
comes in crystals and will leave dark brown (but not painful) burns 
on skin.  These burns disappear quickly, but gloves should always be 
worn.  When using fine Aluminum, airborne particles will be a 
problem.  Aluminum powder is not considered toxic but can lead to 
Aluminosis and should not be breathed.  The combination of airborne 
crystals and Aluminum powder can do wonders for your hair too.  
Rubber gloves, eye protection and a filter mask would not be 
overkill and I highly recommend you use them.
	Grind the Potassium Permanganate crystals to a fine powder.  
Spare no effort in crushing the crystals.  The grade of the oxidizer 
will be the limiting factor in your mixture and thus the finer the 
better.  The purple crystals will begin to look brown as they get 
finer.  Combine two parts oxidizer by volume and one part fuel by 
volume in a plastic bag (al la Zip Loc) and mix carefully but very 
thoroughly.  Static is a real possibility here so caution is the key 
word.  I don't advise you prepare more than you will need in the 
next week or so but I have on occasion left a bag of mixed powder 
laying around for up to a month with no ill effects.  The Potassium 
Permanganate mix is very stable but take no chances.  A good close 
view of 8 ounces of flash powder going up, enclosed or not (say in 
your face) I promise you will never forget.  The Potassium 
Perchlorate is less stable and should be treated accordingly.  
Neither mix however is really volatile.
	Before using in devices, I suggest a test of powder quality.  
Six canisters of useless powder won't do you any good.  When testing 
try using the same fuse you plan to construct your devices with.  My 
favorite method is to pour the powder on loose leaf paper and then 
run a fuse to the pile.  Do NOT use more than a couple of ounces 
this way.  Flashpowder in large quantities will explode even 
unconfined.  An ounce of the Potassium Permanganate mixture will pop 
loudly even uncontained.  The powder burns so quickly, the air has 
no time to get out of the way and a shockwave builds up.  No more 
than a teaspoon is needed for a test.  When the powder catches it 
should burn INSTANTLY.  "FOP!"  The powder will burn VERY brightly, 
I don't advise you look right at it.  All the powder should burn 
almost at the same time, not progressively.
If ignition is not instantaneous, go back to square one and try 
grinding the oxidizers finer.  DO NOT regrind mixed powder.
	Once you have tested your powder and are satisfied with the 
results, you should construct the containers you plan to use.  Size 
is not real important here.  Consider the size of the average M-80 
when constructing your containers.  Those black film containers with 
the gray top work well, and are quite powerful.  For more of a bang 
try plastic prescription bottles or EXTRA STRENGTH BAYER bottles.  I 
wouldn't recommend going much larger than a coke can.  Drill a small 
fuse hole somewhere in the bottle but NOT in the cap.  I suggest 
through the label, about in the middle.  Run a long length of fuse 
into the bottle through the hole and out through the open top.  Fray 
the end of the fuse that you threaded through the hole.  This will 
assure the powder will catch.  As the flame reaches the frayed end 
of the fuse it will spark a bit and ignite what might otherwise not 
have burned.  After fraying the fuse, pull it back into the bottle 
until the frayed end hangs about in the middle of the bottle.  Cut 
the fuse on the outside to the length you prefer.  (I like to allow 
at least 7-10 seconds)  It would be a good idea to test burning 
speed of your fuse first.  Tape the fuse to the outside of the 
bottle so it won't move as you put the powder in.  The amount of 
powder to use is again, subjective.  I have usually filled only 
three quarters of the container, but experimentation with different 
amounts in different or like containers is a good idea.  If you want 
more flash and burn, add more powder.  Some air should be left in 
the container as a rule however.  Do not pack the powder.  Finally 
put the top on.
	Containers alone are not enough to kick quite the way I like, 
so you might try adding some duct tape.  (The more the better)  I 
find the best explosions are with almost half a roll of duct tape on 
the container.  Black plastic electrical tape seems to work very 
well also.  More is more with tape.  Make sure to tape the top down 
very well.  By the time you're done there should be a half inch of 
tape over the entire surface of the container.  No white should be 
visible.
	Again, constructing these devices is a subjective process, and 
as long as you follow the theme you should get along just fine.

	Power

	A three quarter filled film canister with a roll of electrical 
tape on it will do an impressive amount of damage.  Tossing one of 
these in a 55 gallon garbage can type drum will permanently 
disfigure the drum, and a large aspirin bottle will rupture it 
completely.  Expect any car alarms in a 1 block radius to go off.  
Placed under an orange traffic cone will result in a literal 
disappearing act by the cone.  After doing this I couldn't find a 
cone piece much larger than a cassette tape, and none of them within 
50 ft.  Tossed within 10 ft of a person the shock wave will often 
blow the individual off his / her feet.  In alleys, most windows 
will go for about half a block.  File cabinets are amusing as are 
bank deposit boxes (be careful with this one.)  My personal favorite 
is newspaper machines.  Under optimal conditions, one can 
occasionally see the shock wave take the moisture out of the air as 
these devices explode.  For more powerful devices, try porta-
potties.  (Be a long way gone when these go, nitrogen/methane often 
builds up in them.)  I'm sure you can think of some creative uses on 
your own.  These devices are deafening.  You and your car are in for 
it if one goes off while you're transporting it.  Don't expect to 
hear much for a long time afterward if ever.
	Beware of using metal and or glass containers unless you plan 
you device for anti-personal purposes.  These can easily kill or 
maim even though they are not quite as deadly as detonating high 
explosives.
	Reality check.  If you kill someone with one of these, you're 
in it for murder.  You have constructed a device with lethal 
potential and used it in such a way to have killed someone.  Do 
yourself a favor and contain your activities to rural areas and the 
occasional prank.

	Enjoy.
	''- LI


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