125 lines
7.9 KiB
Plaintext
125 lines
7.9 KiB
Plaintext
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______
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_/ \_ ____________________________
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/ __ \/ \
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| (__) Mastering the Masterlock /
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\_ _/\________ ___ __ __ _/
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\______/ \ / \/ \_/ \/
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Written By: \/ The Gypsy
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From: Dead On Arrival
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This file will instruct you on how to build a master key for the type of locks
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that are found in many school systems. These locks are locks that are generally
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rented to the students for the school year. It is a combination lock on the
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front, and each has a different combination that is given to the student with
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the lock. On the back of these locks is a small keyhole. This keyhole can be
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easily mastered once you have one. Also on the back of these locks as a number
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that has been imprinted on by Masterlock, Inc. at the factory. The types I have
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encountered and master are #53 and #69, both of which are popular in my school
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area. The first step involved is to get one of these locks. The way best to
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get one is to wait until you see one left unlocked. Then just take it and
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leave. This is the best way, because they just think, "Damn... I left my lock
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unlocked and someone stole it"... If you go around breaking them off, then the
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school is wondering what is going on, even before you begin the master!
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Once you have one, you must next remove the back cover. This can be done in
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one of the following ways:
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1. Place a screwdriver (flathead) into the place where the keyhole on the back
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is. Not in the actual keyhole where the key is inserted, but on the side,
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between the keyhole peice and the back cover. Then simply jam upward on the
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screwdriver or hit it firmly with a hammer (sledge if available!).
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2. Use a wheel-grinder to grind off the edge on the back of the lock all the
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way around the lock. Then, simply pull off the back cover with a pair of
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pliers. Note: the metal housing of the lock is very firm, and when using the
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grinder on it, it will become red-hot and begin to glow before it is filed off.
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3. Bang the lock around on the ground and stomp on it till it breaks open!
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I used the 2nd method.
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After the back cover is removed, you then find a thicker second plate. If
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you used method #2 then you can simply use the grinder to grind off the small
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peice of metal in the middle of that plate, which holds it on. (On some
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versions of the lock, there may be other peices of metal from the main housing
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holding on that plate, just grind them all off)... Once ground off, you must
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then only use a screwdriver and pry the second plate off. If you didn't use the
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grinder then this is still possible, but will be a lot harder to remove. If
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when you finally get it open, peices of the lock fly all over, don't worry...
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Unless you were planning to put the lock back together (yeah, right!) then you
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do not need the parts together. The part you DO need (a lot!) is a small silver
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-colored peice that contains the brass key-hole section inside. Just get this
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part... It's all you need. You should also note the version number of the lock
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which is on the back plate (which you've already taken off)... you will need
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this number so you know what type of lock the master key goes to.
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Now... the trickiest and actually the hardest part of this project is getting
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the little brass peice out of its silver lining. The silver part is hard to
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break apart, and hitting it or prying it can cause it to be dropped. The brass
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peice contains pins that will fall out very easily. The best way I have found
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to remove the brass portion without the risk of dropping it or losing the pins
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is to melt off the silver-like portion. The complete peice looks something
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like this:
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___
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/ K \ K represents the keyhole
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| K |
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\_K_/
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| /___ Piece Mentioned
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| \ Below...
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The side opposite of the portion which sticks out the bottom is the part
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which should be melted. Use a blow-torch to melt the portion away. It will melt
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at a temperature slightly above normal solder with a soldering iron. Once you
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have melted the portion away enough so that you could pull out the brass peice,
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let it cool. After it has cooled, pick up both peices together (do not remove
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the brass from the silver yet!). Turn both peices over (holding the brass in
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the silver still!!). You will then have the brass portion in one hand below the
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silver portion in your other hand... Carefully remove the silver portion,
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making sure no pins fall out of the brass peice. The silver peice can then be
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discarded. Place a peice of clear tape around the brass peice to hold the four
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pins inside.
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Now comes the key forming process. Go to your local K-Mart or Wal-Mart and
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get a couple of key blanks. If you are then you may pay for the keys if you
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like.) The key that works the best is model CO-10 made by CURTIS. You may or
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may not later need to file a tiny amount off the TOP of that key. Anyways,
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it is the best key I have come across that fits. Now use some form of a file
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(I suggest using the grinding-wheel again) and file off about 2-3mm (Yes,
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milimeters) from the bottom of the key. Now, remove the tape from your brass
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peice (be sure the pins are up, so they do not fall out!!). Insert the key into
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the brass peice key-hole. Push it in until it sticks out the other end about
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0.5mm (or just... "not very far"). Starting at the far end of the key (the
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fourth pin) look and see how much of the pin is sticking out of the brass
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peice. Remember approx. that distance and remove the key. Take your file and
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file down on the key a dip in the place where that pin (4) would line up on
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the key. Do NOT file down too far. Every-so-often re-insert the key to see how
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far the pin is getting closer to even with the brass peice. When the pin sticks
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out none and is also NOT inside the brass peice at all, then move on to the
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next pin doing the same thing. If you file down too far then the key is
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worthless and must be re-done. After all four pins have been completed, they
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should be perfectly even with the brass peice when the key is in place. Be sure
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to re-tape the pins inside the brass peice. Finally your key is complete, try
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it out on another lock (with the same version number on the back-plate)... You
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may need to move the key around a little inside of the key-hole to make it
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work. If it does work then turn the key back and forth inside the key-hole
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about 10-20 times to 'break-in' the key to work better. If it doesn't work then
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try the key in your brass portion again. If they are incorrect then try again.
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Don't worry, with a little practice, you'll be able to file out a key in under
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5 minutes! Well, that's it! My school also had normal master locks that they
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used for other things (Stadium fence, power boxes, etc.) that I also mastered.
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It's done in just about the same way, so you can experiment. Just a warning...
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be sure NO ONE sees you using or just having the keys. Also, be sure not to
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sell them to anyone unless you're sure they're not gonna give them to everybody
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else. I say this because I was suspended from school for 14 days because the
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kid that I worked on the keys with, sold one to another kid. So once people
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found out he was selling them, others wanted one. He then had to tell people
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no (so that not everyone in the fuckin' school would have one!). One of these
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persons decided to be an asshole and narced on us. That, of course, is what
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got me suspended. There also is a way to determine the combination of a lock
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after taking it off and using the master key. This will be explained in the
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next file. That's it for now... Thanx for reading this file intended for
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ENTERTAINMENT purposes ONLY! hehehe...
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