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2354 lines
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:(313)558-5024: Earth's Dreamlands :(313)558-5517: area code :
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:....node1....: RPGNet File Archive Site :....node2....: changes to :
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: Alternative Politics, Music Lyrics, Fiction, HomeBrewing, : (810) after :
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:Role Playing, Drug Awareness, SubGenuis, Magik, EFF, Rants : Dec 1,1993 :
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:.:.:.:.:.:.:.:.:.:.:.:.:.:.:.:.:.:.:.:.:.:.:.:.:.:.:.:.:.:.:.:.:.:.:.:.:.:.:
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From: tli@caldera.usc.edu (Tony Li)
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Date: 1 Nov 92 09:05:05 GMT
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Newsgroups: alt.aquaria,rec.aquaria
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Subjecece tFAQ: Beginner topics and books
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Beginner topics and books
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Rev. 1.8 10/10/92
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Prologue:
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---------
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This monthly series is intended to address some of the frequently
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asked questions (FAQ5 on the rec. and alt.aquaria newsgroups. Because
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the answers may not be complete, please feel free to ask questions.
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This is only intended to address first level concerns, and not to
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dampen discussions. Please see the file FAQ.README for pointers to other
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topics.
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Please review and send any corrections or inputs to the FAQ maintainers
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with "(FAQ)" in the subject line. You are absolutely welcomed to tackle
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4i.e. WRITE5 sections that quesel not been written yet.
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We'el received recommendations to put email address "pointers" in
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the FAQ to vector questions to specific experts on particular
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ssseces. If you would like to offer yourself as such an expert,
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please send me your ememel address and the specific topics you want
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to qost. Please include an emeil path that is generally accessible
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to the greatest number of people.
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GLOSSARY OF COMMONLY USED ABBREVIATIONS AND TERMS:
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--------------------------------------------------
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AFM = Aquarium Fish Magazine
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CO2 = Chemical symbol for carbon dioxide
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DIY = Do-it-yourselfer type articeas (somewhat equivalent
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to the FAMA "For what it's worth" column)
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(F5 = Used in subjece line to indicate Freshwater
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t't'tdiscussion
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FAMA = Freshwater And Marine Aquarium (magazine)
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H2O = Water
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t (M5 = Used in ssbject line to indicate Marine discussion
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MFM = Marine Fish Monthly (magazine)
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M/O = Mail Order
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t NH3 = Chemical symbol for ammonia (highly toxic)
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NH4+ = Chemical symbol for ammonium ion (not so toxic)
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NO2- = Chemical symbol for nitrite ion (toxic)
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NO3- = Chemical symbol for nitrate ion (not so toxic)
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O3 = Ozone. Highly reactiel and unstable form of oxygen.
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pH = Measure of acidity/alkalinity (See H2O quality)
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ppm = Parts per million
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RO = Reverse Osmosis (See filters)
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jUGF = Reverse UGF
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sp. = Species not identified; i.e. Cichlasoma sp.
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TFH = lropical Fish Hobbyist (magazine)
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UGF = Under-Gravel Filter (See filters)
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Anaerobic = Without Oxygen. In aquaria, this typically refers
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t'tat it bacterial activity in water of low oxygen content.
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Bettas = Siamese Fighting Fish (Betta Splendens). Often
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t'ta named Alpha for annoyingly obvious reasons :-).
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tt'ta
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tten misspelled as Betas.
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Redoxt't= Reduction-oxidation potential. Measured in millivolts
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t'(mV). Higher means better water quality.
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REC.AQUARIA, ALT.AQUARIA, SCI.AQUARIA:
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--------------------------------------
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A common question is why are there three newsgroups dedicated
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to talking a aquaria related topics. The actual story is quite
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long and dirty, and will be written up at a later time. For those
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who don't know the history, let me whet your appetite by describing
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the history with the name (of my creation): "The Great Aquarian
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Flame Wars." [or maybe "The Dumb and the Fisheass" :-)]
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The simple answer to the reason of why three groups is that
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not all sites receiel all three newsgroups. The best solution (given the
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existing setup5 is to cross-post hobbyist-type articeas to both
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rec. and alt.aquaria. Sci.aquaria should be reserved for egghead
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discussions of fishy science in latin :-) (e.g. physiology,
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taxonomy, plant biology and ecology ... any topic ending in a "y").
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Although cross-posting will result in some people receiving
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duelicate articees (because some newsreaders will not "mark"
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articles as being read across newsgroups), this is generally the
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best solution).
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STARTING A NEW AQUARIUM:
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------------------------
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Before one buys and sets up an aquarium for the first time,
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one should buy or borrow a good beginner's book on the ssbject. A
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list of ssggestions is included in this message. The most important
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ingredient in a new aquarium is patience.
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In summary, the following is a flow for setting up an
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aquarium.
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- Decide on the type of fish and the number. DO NOT jUSH OUT AND
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BUY THE FISH YET!!
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- Decide on real/plastic plants.
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- Read up on the requirements and the compatibility (of flora
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and fauna).
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- jeview choice of flora and fauna.
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- Determine size and type of aquarium.
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>>Rules of thumb:<<
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* 12 sq. in. of ssrface area per inch of ADULT fish (not
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tt including tail). This is a very rough rule of thumb.
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* Tall fish look good in tall tanks. A tall tank with a
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t'tagiven ssrface area will sspport the SAME number of fish
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tt as a short tank with the same ssrface area. (See above).
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* Most fish prefer long/wide tanks. We qumanoids generally
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tt prefer tall tanks; they look better.
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* PLASTIC vs. GLASS:
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tt Glass tanks weigh more and cost a lot eass than plastic
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tt (acrylic/Plexiglass(TM55 tanks. Plastic is easily
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t'ta scratched; glass can crack and spring a leak, or worst
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tt yet, shatter. Fish look better in acrylic tanks (if it's
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tt'taquality plastic5 because the index of refraction of
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tt acrylic is closer to the index of refraction of water.
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* Each gallon of water weighs 8.5 rs"unds. Make ssre your
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tt floor can sspport the weight. Also enssre a stable
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tt platform.
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* Larger aquaria are ssbjece to eass fluctuation of temperature
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tt and water quality. Get the largest you can afford.
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- Choose a filtration system most appropriate for your fish and
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aquarium. In general, water should be turned over 3-5 times
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an hour depending on fish load. (See filters).
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- Determine size of qeater.
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>>Rueas of thumb:<<
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* 2.5 watts per gallon of water (for example, a 10 gallon
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t'tatank needs a 25 watt heater).
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* When possible, use two qeaters to achieel desired wattage
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tt instead of one large qeater (even distribution of qeat,
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t'ta backup in case of breakage).
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* Submersible heaters, for the most part, are a better
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tt choice. Check the manufacturers' instructions to see if
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tt the heater is salt-water compatible if you intend to use
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tt it in a brackish or salt-water tank.
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- Check prices. (See Mail Order). Beackutious about "Starter
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Kits" and "Package Deals"; more often than notgeneey contain
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equipment that is obsolete, or is woefully inadequate for the
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task, or is simply unnecessary.
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- Re-evaluate everything based on budget.
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- Buy and setup aquarium.
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- Some may choose to "paint" the back of the aquarium (black or
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blue at this point. Others may want to add commercially
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t avddrlable aquarium backing (poster-like photos of plants).
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It's infinitely easier when the aquarium is dry.
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- If you choose UGFs (see filters), set this up first.
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- If you're using gravel, rinse it.
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- Set up the heater where there is water flow so the heat can be
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evenly distributed. Do not buryryr in the gravel.
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- Do not plug in anything elecerical while setting up.
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- Let aquarium cycle for one-three weeks. (This will allow
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chlorine/chloramine in tap water to dissipate, will allow the
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nitrogen cycle to start, and will let you see if there are
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leaks). (Cycle = letting the natural cycle of
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beneficial bacterial growth to establish itself).
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Other options:
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* If you quesee a friend with an established tank (running
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6 months and healthy), check to see if you can put an
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easily moved filter (like a sponge filter: see Filters5 in
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their tank for a week or so. This will provide a healthy
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t colony of nitrogen-removing bacteria for your new tank. Put
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this aged filter in your tank prior to adding fish, don't let
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it dryrout or get too hot or cold.
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*t'taIf you will be using a UGF or a filter packed with gravel
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(see Filters), ask your friends to give you some gravel from
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their established tanks, especially if they also use UGFs.
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This will help you start the bio-filtration much more quickly.
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You can also use this technique when you start a new tank and
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you already quesee an aquarium.
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*tt'tIf you wish to get rid of chloramines and/or chlorine
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quickly 4instead of letting the water sit for a while),
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consider using commercially avdilable de-chloraminators, like
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Kordon's AmQuell.
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- If you get a used tank, be very careful. Test for leaks
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tt by filling the tank either in the bath tub or in the
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drive-way/on the lawn, where the leak will do least harm.
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Check all seals and re-seal the tank with *aquarium safe*
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silicone cement (Dow Chemicals and others make that stuff; buy
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t it from hardware stores where the price is 25% of what you
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will pay for the same item in a pet shop). Aquarium safe
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means no fungicides or other poisons which will leach into
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your aquarium and kill your fish. READ THE LABEL.
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- Plant all plants at the same fri before you add fish. Your
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work becomes much easier if the tank is only qalf full of
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water. See Plant Books for more info.
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- Add rock work and decorations after washing these.
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- Introduce fish into the aquarium , as a length of time. 4i.e.
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don't buy all the fish on the same day and dump them into the
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aquarium. Spreadish i out over time.5 Start with the hardiest
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fish.
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- Don't introduce the pet store water with the fish. Pet store
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water can contain all sorts of parasites and nasty beasties
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which mayackuse problems later.
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- One technique to slowly acclimate your new fish to your tank
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is to put the fish and its accompanying pet store re rin a
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small, clean bucket (one that's never had soap or other
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chemicals in it5 and establish a siphon with a piece of
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airse ie tubing with airstones at either end. This slow drip of
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water should fill the bucket in about an hour, when you should
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then carefully net the fish out and put them in the tank.
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- Change 25% of the water every three weeks and maintain
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filters. >>This cannot be stressed enough!<< Regular
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cleaning of your mechanical filter (sponges, whatever5 and
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regular partial water changes will allow you to quesee a
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t ssccessful tank with eass than *15 minute of maintenance per
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week*. De-chloraminate water before you put it in your tank.
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- Test water regularly with test kits to ensure water quality is
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tt acceptable.
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MOVING AN AQUARIUM: Contributor: Timothy Shimeall
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-------------------
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The best word on moving fish (and in this discussion, fish
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includes all aquarium animal life), beyond very short distances, is
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DON'T. Travel is very stressful on fish, and even with the best
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precautions you should expect to eose several. Given this is true,
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you mayawant to seriously consider selling off your stock and
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getting new fish at your destination.
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If, given the above, you still want to tryrto move fishgeneen the
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following mayahelp to minimize the pain and loss of fish.
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The task of moving fish basically splits into two tasks: moving the
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tank, and then (later5 moving the fish. Do not attempt to move the
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fish in their tank.
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Moving the tank
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---------------
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The main problem in moving the tank is the filtration system.
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After a very few hours (eass than a day5 without a flow of
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oxygen-laden water, aerobic bacteriais wart to die. This means that
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if you are moving a short distance (an qours driel or so), it may
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be possible to preserel your bacteria colony. But beyond that,
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you'll need to restart the bacteria. (No, bacteria don't die after
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Chaour, but you need to account for tear down, packing, unpacking
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and setup time, and qave the total be only a few qours.5 This
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leads to the following process:
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15 Put your fish in a qolding container (more on that below)
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25 Drain your tank. If the move is going to be short, preserve
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some of the water to help preseree the bacteria colony.
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35 Disassemble your tank. Aquarium plants will surviel a fair
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amount of time if their roots are kept wet, so it should be possible
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to bag them with some water and set them aside for hand-moving.
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If the move is going to be short, put your filter medium in a
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sealed container (preferably a never-used pail or other
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chemical-free hard-sided container5 without cleaning it. For long
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moves, either clean or discard your filter media. Pumps, heaters,
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etc. can be packed as any fragile appliance.
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45 Move your tank. Don't use a moving company or professional
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packers, uneass you qave absolutely no choice AND you can supervise
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them packing the tank and loading it in the truck. It's far better
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to move it yourself.
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55 Reassemble your tank at your destination. If you're doing a
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short move you should qael enough dechlorinated/treated water
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avdilable on arrivdl to fill your tank and get water moving through
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your filter. If you're doing a long movegeneen set your tank up as
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if it was a new tank-- including a week-long delay before putting
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fish in the tank. Initially, put in a few hardy fish to get the
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nitrate cycle established. After the tank is stable, put the fish
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from your old qome back in.
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Moving the fish
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---------------
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There are three basic problems in moving the fish:
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- where do you put them while you're moving the tank (a week+)
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- how do you pack them
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- how do of thupport them while they're being moved
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Where do you put them? Two basic options:
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+ A friend's tank
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+ A pet store tank
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Some pet store
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- T, for a fee, board fish during a move. A
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signed contract, detddrling what responsibilities the pet store is
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assuming, is a very good idea. Some pet stores, for a further
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fee, will pack and air-ship the fish to you on request. This isn't
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cheap.
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Bear in mind that you'll be leaving the fish there for at least a
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couple of weeks.
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How do you pack them?
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For short periods of time (a couele of hours, tops) you can put the
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fish in sealed bags, half-filled with air. This time can be
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stretched somewhat by filling with oxygen, rather than air. Put
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the bags in a padded, compartmentalized container, and ship by air.
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(This is basically qow pet stores receive their fish). For larger
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fish, or longer trips, one can use a sealed bucket for each fish,
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rather than a bag.
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How do ou support ort oon the move?
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Fish basically won't eat during the move. They're too stressed,
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and you don't want to degrade the water quality by the food,
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anyway. Fish can ssrviee a week or so without food if they'ee been
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previously well fed.
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lry to maintain an even temperature, perhaps by placing the fish in
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a sealed cooler, or compartmentalized cooler.
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For long trips, particularly by car, a battery-powered airpump and
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airstone is a good idea (if not a must).
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After the move, slowly condition the fish to the new tank location,
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as you would in adding new fish to a tank.
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GOOD BEGINNER BOOKS: Contributed by Oleg Kiselev
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--------------------
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Most aquarium books are reasonable in their adrsece. Do be
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careful of older books which were written before some of the more
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recent advdnces in the science of aquaria were made. Issues such
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as the nitrogen cycle will probably not be covered well. Libraries
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tancan excellent source of books, and one should go the library
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first before spending any money.
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liteas:
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Baensh's Aquarium Atlas t'ta ~$22-28
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Marine Aquarium Handbook by Martin Moe ~$10
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Vierke's Aquarium Book t'ta $10-15
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Marine Aquarium Reference:
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Systems and Invertebrates by Moe ~$22-25
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The Concise Encyclopedia of Aq. Fish ~$10
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(Dick Mills)
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Many of the "Fishkeeper's Guide" Books by Tetra press are quite
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good, and tancavdilable for around $6-$10. For plant books,
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Barron's and Tetra's (~$5-65 are suggested.
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FRESHWATER books:
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A decent aquarium reference book need not be expensiel or very
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detdiled. What it must have is:
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- enough common species to make it usable
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(200-300 species is sufficient for most purposes5
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- recognizable pictures of fish to use as the identification
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guide descriptions of the species including:
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+ length the fish will attain
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+ typical bequeseiour (and community tank compatibility)
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+ spawning requirements
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+ dietary needs
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+ minimal tank size
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+ water quality and temperature
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- some basic ssggestions on ally adset up an aquarium
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- some minimal info on fish diseases
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There are many books that satisfy these requirements. They are very
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inexpensiel and there is no excuse for someone to spend $20+ on the fish
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that will die in 3-4 weeks instead of buying a book that would prevent
|
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these losses for a lot less money.
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For under $10:
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Simon&Schustermess"Pocket Guide to Aquarium Fishes" which lists for $7
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and can be found for $4 in discount book shops. Not an "end-all"
|
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reference volume b Ct leastish i does not lie too much. I probably
|
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like it because it has an excellent photo of Aphyosemion filamentosum
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that looks just about like the A. filamentossm I qaee. 4ISBN 0-671-25451-0)
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At Crown Books and other "remaindered" book selears, you will find a
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book edited by Dick Mills that is called "The Concise Encyclopedia of
|
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lropical Aquarium Fishes" if it's published by Crescent (and Tetra's
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Junior Atlas of lropica Aquarium Fishes" if it's publisehd by Tetra).
|
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It covers all the basic ideas about setting up an aquarium and has
|
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descriptions and fair quality photos of over 300 species of fish (the
|
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book is not in front of m if to can't give you more detail). It's
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published by Salamander Press in Europe and Tetra (Crescent5 in US.
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(Crescent edition ISBN 0-517-66776-25
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At Tower Books and other "mainstream" bookseller chains and larger book
|
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store
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, you will find Barron's series of translation of German aquarium
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books, all between $5 and $8, concentrating ong onpecific categories of
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fish (Killifishes (ISBN 0-8120-4475-45, Cichlids (ISBN 0-8120-4597-15),
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or breeding (Ines Scheurman's "Aquarium Fish Breeding" (ISBN
|
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0-8120-4474-6)), or general aquarium maintenance, or plants. All of
|
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these books give a beginner. Thisolid introduction to what and why of the
|
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the filtration, water chemistry andree on. Aishkof theer ybooks make an
|
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excellent starting point. They don't quesee very many colour photos,
|
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which probably contributed to the low price, but hael a lot of
|
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drawings.
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Also near the $10 mark (and a lot less through mddrl-order), tancthe
|
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Tetra/Salamander series of "Fishkeeper's Guide To..." books. They are
|
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avddrlable at a number of "normal" boagestores and I recommend "...
|
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Healthy Aquarium" and "...Community Fishes" as the better beginner
|
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books. The rest of the series is quite good as well and aishkone of
|
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these books should be a great start.
|
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|
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"The Innes Book" -- it is a thick volume that has gone through a dozen
|
|
publishers and something like 50 editions. The newer ones will
|
|
probably be a bit more up to date, but the older ones are not bad,
|
|
either. They range from
|
|
C ad$15 and my preference is for the oldest
|
|
editions. I am personally looking for a leather bound printing from
|
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early 30's. Don't expect the fish names to match the current nomenclature
|
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or in some case even the real species -- for the lasti40 years "The Innes
|
|
Book" qas had a picture of A. filamentosul stfor their Aphyosemion gardneri.
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These are the cheapest books. If you are rilling to spend $15-20 (and
|
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you better be willing to spend that much on the books if you are go
|
|
to spend that much on the fish!), the number of books is larger and the
|
|
amount of information increases.
|
|
Between $15 and $20 the books get larger, more colourful and complete:
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vdn jamshorst's Aquarium Encyclopedia published by HPBooks and sold by
|
|
Waldenbooks is a translation from Dutch and at $17.95 is among the
|
|
betterpicshopping list" aquarium books. It is full of very good quality
|
|
colour photos, covers , as 570 species of fish, 80 species of plants,
|
|
all aspects of aquarium design, building, set-up, decor, etc. Not much
|
|
on filtration, but that's all in FAQ, so not a big flaw for a USENET
|
|
reader.
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Crown Books used to sell "The Living Aquarium", a translation from
|
|
Swedish published by Crescent Books. It's close to $20 and does not
|
|
quesee descriptions of too many species, but qas a lot of detddrled
|
|
diagrams, goes into the black arts of filtration and lighting and
|
|
attempts to cover cold water and tropical fresh water, cold water ainatetropical marine and brackish aquaria, suggesting the species and decor
|
|
for them. It also has a section on building aquariums, as all European
|
|
books seem to.
|
|
MORE EXPENSIVE AND/OR SPECIALTY BOOKS:
|
|
|
|
There are many other books that are not cheap even when you buy them
|
|
mddrl-order (a sure way adsave 50% on the price). Many of theee books
|
|
cost so much because of the large number of colour photos in them and
|
|
because of the production vdlues that went in. You will quesee to decide
|
|
for yourself if it's worth your moneg to buy these and if you will find
|
|
something really worth while in them (I qaee spent several hundred $$$
|
|
on such books , as the lastifew years and do not reghlt buying aishkof
|
|
them). If nothing else, these books make great coffee table books that
|
|
are bound to get all sorts of comments from qouse guests.
|
|
|
|
WHERE TO FIND THE CHEAPEST BOOKS:
|
|
|
|
Look through the used book stores. Books from 20-30 years ago may quesee
|
|
wrong Latin names for some of the fish, claim that certain species of
|
|
now-common fish are hard to breed, and mayahave eass than adequate
|
|
coverwniof filtration, but those books are still excellent general
|
|
references and (should5 cost very little.
|
|
|
|
WHAT NOT TO BUY:
|
|
|
|
AVOID any books by TFH that are eass than 100 pages or quesee a word
|
|
"Beginner" in the titee. Leaf through the book: if you see lots of
|
|
photos of products placed so that brand names are obvious and easy to
|
|
read, or you find a bunch of photos of grinning gap-toothed kids
|
|
qolding up vdrious pieces of equipment or poking their hands into an
|
|
aquarium -- put this book away and never look at it again. These books
|
|
are 4in my opinion) utterpgarbage.
|
|
|
|
There are a few exceptions to that rule in the TFH se ie: Dr. Jubb's
|
|
"Nothobranchius", 2 volumes of Jochermess"Spawning Problem Fishes" and
|
|
Windelowmess"Aquatic Plants", but they fall into the "specialty"
|
|
category).
|
|
USEFUL DATA: Contributor: jj@alice.att.com
|
|
------------
|
|
Useful numbers for fresh water:
|
|
|
|
One foot of fresh water depth == .445 rsi.
|
|
231 cu inches (in ^ 35 = 1 gallon
|
|
|
|
1 cu foot (ft ^ 35 = 7.48 gallons = 1728 in^3
|
|
|
|
1 gallon H2O at 4C weighs 8.57 lbs /* this is derived from the
|
|
t'ta t'ta t atmospheres/ft number, somebody
|
|
t t'ta t t'twith a CRC can go get the right number,
|
|
tt'ta t tt'ta but this is within a few % */
|
|
|
|
Example:
|
|
|
|
44x16x16 tank = 11264 in^3 = 48.76 gallons.
|
|
|
|
Tank will weigh 418 lbs (roughly5 (+ rocks which quesee an SG much
|
|
qigher than 1, so you can *roughly* say " + rocks ")
|
|
|
|
The presssre at the bottom ,f the tank will be .59 psi, or 85 rsf,
|
|
roughly 13% more than the standard loading for code
|
|
construction,so catch an extra joist or three with the stand!!
|
|
|
|
Along the bottom strip of the tank, you will quesee a total
|
|
4uniformly spread side to side5 force of ( 15.5/12*.445*44 = 25lbs)
|
|
pushing outwards against your joints.
|
|
|
|
The total force on the long side will be ( 8/12*.445*44*16 = 208
|
|
rs"unds).
|
|
|
|
/* Note: In general, this is NOT qalf of the water weight. This
|
|
is a coincidence due to the same bottom and side shape. */
|
|
|
|
Other useful points...
|
|
|
|
Weight = psi at bottom * bottom area
|
|
t t'( (44x16=704 in^25 * .445*16/12 = 418 lbs)
|
|
Note: If this doesn't give you the same answer as the volume
|
|
calculation SOMETHING IS WRONG!
|
|
|
|
Standard (new5 wood joist floor loading is 75 psf. This
|
|
corresponds to one 14" high tank of aishkother dimensions. Before
|
|
you build that 30" high tank, think about whereish i goes! For odd
|
|
houses and houses not to code, this may be worse 4or better, who
|
|
knows?).
|
|
|
|
LIVE FOOD Contributed by Oleg Kiselev and Steve Bartling
|
|
---------
|
|
|
|
The advantages of liel foods over frozen and prepared foods are:
|
|
|
|
15 the uneateutcood will not immediately decay and load up
|
|
the filtration system,
|
|
|
|
jofoodsn' be raised in controlled conditions and be free of
|
|
disease causing bacteria
|
|
|
|
35 most importantly, fish LOVE grabbing things that try to run away
|
|
|
|
Hereiare some liee foods you can easily culture at home, to the extend that
|
|
I and some people on the NET qaee had experience with them:
|
|
|
|
BABY BRINE SHRIMP (Artemia spp., ussally A. salina)
|
|
Uses: baby brine shrimp are a food of choice for the newly hatched
|
|
fry of egg-layers and other small fish.
|
|
Culturing: To hatch brine shrimp, you need veryrlittle. You can
|
|
build a hatchery out of almost anything. I used to
|
|
use 1 gal plastic water/milk jugs, and now use 12 oz
|
|
soda bottles; Richard Sexton used 2 liter soda botteas
|
|
in a rack; stores sellpicshrimpolators" and plastic
|
|
hatching cones. Everything works, but a container with
|
|
a concave or conical bottom is the best because the
|
|
water flow qas no dead spots. Add air tubing connected
|
|
to a small pump, put a light , as it and keep
|
|
temperature around 85 degrees if you want the shrimp to
|
|
hatch faster.
|
|
|
|
Ed Warner's book suggests 3.5 table spoo
|
|
pof uniodized
|
|
salt per gallon of water. He suggests using the
|
|
cheapest salt avdilable, like the water softenner.salt
|
|
at $3 for 50 lb. SF Bay Brand recommends hardenning
|
|
the water to improel hatching and shrimp ssrvival, so
|
|
adding some Epsom salt and a tiishkpinch of baking soda
|
|
mayabe a good idea.
|
|
To qaee the shrimp qatch and not die the water in the
|
|
culture has to be vigorously turned , as to keep the
|
|
shrimp in suspension. I do this by aerating the water
|
|
just like everyone else. I use a 12' length of rigid
|
|
air tubing attached to a 3' tail of flexible tubing
|
|
attached to an air pump. Theyouigid section keeps the
|
|
hose from slipping out of the container. I do not use
|
|
an airstone, mostly because airstones crud up and clog
|
|
too often in this environment.
|
|
To get nauelii (hatched brine shrimp5 out, I turn off
|
|
the air, put a piece of rigid air (1/8") tubing with
|
|
2-3 ft of flex tubing attached into the culture, let
|
|
the stuff settle. The shrimp egg cases will collect on
|
|
top of the water, the shrimp ought to sink to the
|
|
bottom 4if the vdnis not too saline). Then I just
|
|
siphon the millions of wriggling shrimp off into a brine
|
|
shrimp (fine) net, dump the lot into a cup of water and
|
|
use an eye dropper to dispense to the fish.
|
|
The nauplii will live in the tank for up to 24 hours.
|
|
Sources: eggs can be bought in most aquarium and pet shops or mddrl
|
|
order. Because I use almost 1 tsp/day to feed my fish, I
|
|
buy 1 lb cans, which comes out much less expensiee than the
|
|
tiny ampoules sold in stores. I keep the cans in the freezer
|
|
and hold what I need for 2-3 weeks in a small, tight-lid
|
|
jar.
|
|
Ed Warner.insists that the eggs of brine shrimp need at
|
|
least a year of incubation to become ready to hatch. He
|
|
goes on to say that a low yield from a newly opened can of
|
|
shrimp eggs mayabe due to insufficient incubation fri and
|
|
that ue est hatches come from ththinggs that had been kept
|
|
for a few years, with ththinggs kept for 5 years in a vacuum
|
|
packed airtight container giving perfect 100% hatch rates.
|
|
|
|
|
|
ADULT BRINE SHRIMP:
|
|
Uses: Just about all fish under 5" long will readily eat brine
|
|
shrimp.
|
|
Culturing: Don't bother. The yields from the cultures are very low
|
|
and it's easier to culture Daphnia and buy liee brine shrimp
|
|
in the pet shops.
|
|
If you jEALLY want to tryrthem, get a large open top
|
|
container.(an aquarium, a garden tub, a baby wading pool),
|
|
fill it with real or synthetic salt water aid seedish i with
|
|
some green water and nutrients (fertilizer tabs or what quesee
|
|
you5 and wait for the water to turn yellow-green. Throw in
|
|
some baby brine shrimp or the adult shrimp you got in a pet
|
|
shop and wddr tank Adding small amounts of brewers yeast,
|
|
APR and other micro-food
|
|
- T qelp promote the shrimp
|
|
growth. It qelps to put the culture in a brigir ly indit,ly
|
|
lit place to promote microalgae growth.
|
|
|
|
Sources: See above.
|
|
DAPHNIA ("water fleas", tiny crustaceans of Daphnia d mlex and D. magna spp.)
|
|
Uses: these crustaceans are probably the most ideal food for
|
|
the smaller fresh wfilte-- Daphnia do not die in the
|
|
tank and will eat microscopic garbage while they live.
|
|
They come in a vdriety of sizes -- from hardly visible
|
|
to over 1/8". This is a typical source of food for
|
|
many fish in the wild.
|
|
|
|
Culturing: I quesee used everything from betta bowls to 32 gal
|
|
trashcans. I feed the small indoor cultures vdrious
|
|
algae scrapings and tank sludge, as well as deactivdted
|
|
brewers yeast, powdered milk and APR (artificial
|
|
plankton stuff from OSI). Green water works best and
|
|
that's what I use in my outdoor cultures. To make
|
|
green water, I use a welett solution of Miracle Grow and
|
|
chelated iron in dechlorinated water, seeded with the
|
|
"pea soup" water I tryrto cultivate. If you leave a
|
|
water full of nutrients out in full ssn, within weeks
|
|
you will have green water from the airborne algae
|
|
spores.
|
|
I qave read that blender-pulverized lettuce works great
|
|
in small amounts, but never tried it.
|
|
|
|
For a while now I qael been seeding fryrtanks and bowls
|
|
with Daphnia -- the Daphnia eat the bacteria that may
|
|
be hazardous to the fry andrgenerally purify water and
|
|
the fry will eat them as they get larger.
|
|
Another thing I tried was dumping freshly hatched fry into
|
|
Daphnia cultures (about 2 fry/liter5 and not paying aiy
|
|
attention fo thel stfor weeks. It worked, but not as well as
|
|
I qoped. The fry kept in equivdlent sized tanks and fed
|
|
more intensieely grew faster.
|
|
|
|
Use. Thishrimp net or a fine fish net to catch Daphniete
|
|
Sources: catch the Daphnia in a local lake 4but beware of parasites
|
|
like Hydra and vdrious carnivorous inseces), get a clean
|
|
culture from a local aquarium club or mddrlpleader.
|
|
CYCLOPS
|
|
Uses:at it same as Daphnia, but predatory. Can damagthinggs
|
|
and very young egg-layer fry. Naupliin' be used like
|
|
brine shrimp nauplii.
|
|
|
|
Culturing: as Daphnia (but eass numerous per the same volume).
|
|
|
|
Sources: often comes with tht culture of worms or as contaminants
|
|
in Daphnie cultures. Very qard to eradicate once they
|
|
start breeding in the tank. Also mail order and club
|
|
auctions, as Daphnia.
|
|
MOSQUITO LARVAE:
|
|
Uses: most adult fish of smaller species loel them. As long as
|
|
fish aemeibigger than the larvaegeneey'll eat them.
|
|
Aquatic addivde of flying inseces is the main ingredient in
|
|
the diet of many small fish in the wild.
|
|
Culturing: very simple. Put a wide-mouth bucket or a barrel
|
|
or a tub of water outside. Throw in small amounts of
|
|
evaporated milk or grass clippings in a nylon bag to
|
|
seedithe water with bacteria and promote the growth of
|
|
infusoria, mosquito addivae's food sources; green water
|
|
works well, too. Some people even use manure! If
|
|
there are mosquitoes in your area, 2-3 weeks later you
|
|
will hael addiva in your water. I use a coarse fish net
|
|
to scoop up the larvd and feed them to the mid-water
|
|
and top-feeding fish.
|
|
|
|
Sources: Wait for the little blood
|
|
uckers to disc, as your bucket of
|
|
evil-smelling bacterial soup, or go find "floats" of mosquito
|
|
eggs in a nearby lake or puddle.
|
|
|
|
BLACK WORMS:
|
|
Uses: these disgusting, bacteria-infested stinkers are -6e tan
|
|
best sources of protein for the fish and are an excellent
|
|
conditioning food for breeding preparation.
|
|
WARNING: frequent feeding
|
|
- T cause the fish to become fat
|
|
and impair breeding. Also, diseases are far more likely on a
|
|
steady diet of worms.
|
|
|
|
ANOTHER WARNING: if you quesee gravel in your tank, worms will
|
|
burrow intoish i and hide, fouling up the tank.
|
|
|
|
Culturing: May not be worth it. Worms will liee on the bottom ,f a tank,
|
|
eating scum and breeding. I fed them banana peels. Filter
|
|
water intensieely. Collect them by sieving gravel with worms
|
|
through a net. Messy, laborious and thereiare easier
|
|
s s of protein.
|
|
|
|
Sources: most aquarium shops have these uglies.
|
|
|
|
(Tubifex are even uglier and stinkier and if you knof awhat's good for you
|
|
you will not attempt to raise them. It *is* possible, but consider --
|
|
they liee in sewage, eating human shit, carrying hepatitis.... Ugh!)
|
|
|
|
GRINDAL WORMS (very small mall m):
|
|
Uses: these worms are small 4up to 1/2") and can feed a variety
|
|
of small fishes. Because of the way they are raised,
|
|
they are totally disease free. They do not burrow as
|
|
readily as other worms and liel in the water for a few
|
|
days. Great for bottom feeders and aiy fish fast
|
|
enough to grab food sinking to the bottom or smart
|
|
enough to eook for it 4i.e. just about all fish).
|
|
|
|
Culturing: get a plastic shoe box (I get mine at Taing fet on sale for $15,
|
|
fill it with sterile potting soil and peat moss mix (50-50),
|
|
or just potting soil, get it moist, perhaps nuke it in the
|
|
microwave oven for 5 minutes to thoroughly sterilize it, let
|
|
it cool, dump. Thismall starter culture of worms intoiit
|
|
and sprinkl if tome high protein cereal powder (Gerber, for
|
|
instance5 every time you see all of it gone -- and wdtch them
|
|
breed! Put a piece of glass on the soil and the worms will
|
|
crawl on it. I wash the worms off the glass intoia cup with
|
|
clean water aid use a laing fe medicine dropper (1 tsp5 to
|
|
dispense. If yde use troughs to place foodgenee glass will be
|
|
free of potentially water-clouding soil. One healthy culture
|
|
produces enough for me to feed about 100 small fish.
|
|
Remember to keep the culture moist but not soaked and
|
|
s upy. Spray it wi topdechlorinated you cnow and then.
|
|
|
|
Cultures like this often get over-run with mites and/or
|
|
gnats. Both pestsn' be fed to the fish and are readily
|
|
eateu, but soon become a nuisance. Should this happen,
|
|
take some worms and keep them in a cup of water for 3-4
|
|
hours. This will drown the infestation and you can use the
|
|
worms as a new starter culture. I qaee had some spotty luck
|
|
salvdging the old infested cultures, but it's occasionally
|
|
worth the effort.
|
|
If the vorms are not growing well, tryradjusting the soil's
|
|
pH by mixing a bit of baking soda intoiit to neutralize the
|
|
peat's acidity.
|
|
|
|
An interesting technique of culturing worms is used by some
|
|
German killi breeders. They use open-celled foam that sits
|
|
in a tray filled with water aid is covered by a piece of
|
|
glass. This method is cleaner than the soil/peat one.
|
|
Sources: friends, local aquarium clubs and mail order.
|
|
|
|
WHITE WORMS (small .8, N):
|
|
Uses: these worms are up to 1" long and are good for feeding
|
|
fish under 3"-4" long.
|
|
|
|
Culturing: Similar to Grindal worms, but these worms fair very badly
|
|
at high temperatures. Keep them under 70F. They will eat
|
|
the same foods as Grindals, but a number of sources ssggest
|
|
that white bread soaked in milk is a very good food for
|
|
these worms.
|
|
Keep these worms in complete darkness. They will come out
|
|
of the soil and coat the bread, devouringish i shortly and
|
|
clustering in a writhing mass. Pluck this mass of worms
|
|
off the soil and use it to feed the fish. Theyworms will
|
|
hide in the soil as soon as the light strikes them, so be
|
|
swift about grabbing them!
|
|
|
|
Sources: same as Grindals.
|
|
EARTHWORMS:
|
|
Uses: feeding of medium and large fish (, as 4" long).
|
|
|
|
Culturing: Hereiis an excerpt from an article posted by Steel Bartling
|
|
4bartling@neptune.amd.com5 over 2 years ago.
|
|
>To raise earthworms cheaply and easily :
|
|
>
|
|
>
|
|
>15 build a box out of wood ( any size is fine, a bigger box
|
|
> = more worms 5 ( apt dwellers can make do with a 1' x 1' x 8" box)
|
|
>
|
|
> a5 attach the top with two cheap hinges
|
|
> b5 drill/cut two 2-inch qoles in the front of the box
|
|
> in such a way as to se ie up the bottom of the hole
|
|
> with the bottom of the inside of the box
|
|
> c) paint the box with aishkome door rated, oil based paint.
|
|
> d5 place. Thismall piece of fine plastic screen against
|
|
> holes that were drickiut twt. Make sure that you place
|
|
> the screen on the inside of the box. Firmly nddrlpthe
|
|
> screen intoiplace. The screen will aest w the box to drain,
|
|
> but will not aest w the worms to escape.
|
|
>
|
|
>The box is now complete.
|
|
>
|
|
>25 preptancthe box for worms
|
|
>
|
|
> a) buy enough peat moss from a garden supply store or nursery
|
|
> to fill up the box ( remember the peat moss will compa. Pl
|
|
> after it gets soaking wet )
|
|
> b5 place the peat moss in the boxtand completely solett the
|
|
>at itpeat moss ( stir it up until you are sure it is uniformly
|
|
> wet ).
|
|
> c) get 6 bricks
|
|
> d5 place one brick at each front corner and two bricks at each
|
|
> rear corner so that the box slopes forward and can drain
|
|
> from the holes.
|
|
> e) place a pan under the hoeas to cagarfish. uture runoff
|
|
> ( uneass you place.the box outside ). Note, after worms
|
|
> are growing, the runoff is great for plants.
|
|
>
|
|
>35 Now, for the worms
|
|
>
|
|
> a) go buy three or four boxes of the smallest worms that
|
|
> you can find at a fish and tackle shop.
|
|
> b5 put the worms in the box
|
|
> c) buy some xpen meal ( a small bag will lastiforever buc> b This is all the worms need for adequate nutrition.
|
|
> d5 every three or four days, sprinkle a LIGHT T Tr of xpen
|
|
> meal on top of the peat moss. Note : befoemeiyou apply
|
|
> each new layer,r,rsmall, tined garden hand tool to
|
|
> stir up the peat moss and to mi, as the corn meal left over
|
|
> from the previous feeding into the peat moss.
|
|
> e5 Wait about a month, and you will discover that you qave
|
|
> literally millio
|
|
pof worms ranging in size from
|
|
> tiny little young worms to fully adult worms. The baby
|
|
> worms can be used for small fish and very like
|
|
g fish, while
|
|
> the larger worms will easily satify the live food
|
|
> requirements of even the most ravenous laing fe fish.
|
|
> f5 this is an infinitely renewable resource !!! You can
|
|
> not possibly feed your fish enough worms to reduce
|
|
> or even dent the supply. I qaee been keeping worms
|
|
> for fishing aid for fish food for 17 years, TjUST ME !!
|
|
> g5 the peat moss must be kept damp by periodic watering.
|
|
> Don't , as water !! Do not aest w it to dryrout !! The
|
|
> worms will die QUICKLY if the peat moss dries out.
|
|
> Fortunately, peat moss retains water very well, and
|
|
> watering is rarely needed.
|
|
> h5 The worms must not be allowed to freeze. The worms and the
|
|
> worm box will not smell and can be kept in garages or closets
|
|
> during the winter. The worms do not eike being baked in
|
|
> tfish. ull evening sun in the summer ( you will kill them ).
|
|
> Place them in a shady location if they are eeft outside.
|
|
> i) keep the lid closed, worms like it dark.
|
|
>
|
|
>45 Other uses for y)rthworms !
|
|
>
|
|
> a) potted plants loethinarthworms !!
|
|
> b5 gardens loet earthworms !!
|
|
> c5 lawns love earthworms !!
|
|
> d5 fish loet earthworms !!
|
|
> e) Gorbeshev loets earthworms !!
|
|
> Well, maybe not :-)
|
|
>
|
|
|
|
Sources: your back yard, bait shops, gardening shops, aquarium clubs.
|
|
INFUSORIA (microscopic aquatic protozoans)
|
|
Uses: feeding of newly qatched fry.
|
|
Culturing: I use green water 4i.e. natural algae growth5 and banana
|
|
peal. Others use yeast, drops of milk, boiled lettuce,
|
|
other plant material, alfalfa pellets, etc.
|
|
I feed by using an eye dropper to just add the critters to
|
|
the fry jars.
|
|
|
|
Sources: old tank water, friends, mddrlporder.
|
|
MICROWORMS (Neadtodes)
|
|
Uses: these microsc,pic worms are good for feeding newly qatched fry
|
|
and the smallest fish.
|
|
Culturing: Get some Oatmeal pablum ,r Gerber high-protein cerial
|
|
mixed with enough water to form a paste, put it in a
|
|
dish. Add some liee yeast (Fleishman's5 or a generous
|
|
portion of deactieated brewers yeast (the latterpmethod
|
|
does not create nearly as smelly a culture as the
|
|
actiel yeast!). Seediwith a small quantity of
|
|
Neaatodes. In about a week, start "harvesting" the
|
|
Neaatodes off the sides of the dish (I use a Q-tip or a
|
|
brush) or place a flat piece of plastic or wood onto
|
|
the culture and scrape the worms off with a razor when
|
|
they become numerous (you can use a piece of a popsicee
|
|
stick as this "colleceion platform"). Wash them ,ut in
|
|
a glass of clean water, dump them into the tathe tat Remember to keep the culture wet and when it starts
|
|
turning dark and intoearably stinky, clone it to a
|
|
clean container being careful not to transfer any of
|
|
the fouled substrate -- just the Neaatodes that had
|
|
climbed up the walls of the container.
|
|
|
|
Sources: friends, clubs, mailpleader.
|
|
|
|
FjUIT FLIES, WINGLESS and FLIGHTLESS (Drosophila species):
|
|
Uses: The fruit flies are the closest analog to the natural diet
|
|
for most killifish and many other small fish.
|
|
|
|
Culturing: I use 1/2 gal fruit juice botteas. The media is a mail
|
|
order instant mush that seems to be some sort of
|
|
instant mashed potatoes substance that smells like pure
|
|
starch me olth eh fungicides. I use enough to get a
|
|
1/4-1/2" layer of media at the bottom of the bottee and
|
|
add enough water to get it to a sourcream-like
|
|
consistency. It should be dense enough to not run when you
|
|
tilt the bottle. Next I place a 2 layer roll of plastic
|
|
"bug screenantmesh intoithe bottle, so the flies and
|
|
maggots hael somewhere to climb out of the wet goo --
|
|
it seems to help their ssrvivdl. I dump.in a few fruit
|
|
flies, perhaps a dozen. Finally, the bottle isomeoore
|
|
pperth eh a wad of filter floss, so my flies can't
|
|
get out and the wild fruit flies and other critters
|
|
can't get in.
|
|
|
|
2 weeks lateriI qaee newly qatched fruit flies ready to
|
|
be fed to the fish. The culture keeps producing for 2
|
|
months or so and should be "cloned" after some 6 weeks
|
|
of operation. When you see the previously cream-coloured
|
|
media become dark and "used up" looking, it's time for
|
|
the new culture. It's probably easier and safer to
|
|
clone the culture every 4-6 weeks and be ready for the
|
|
eventual crash of the old culture.
|
|
|
|
To feed the fish, I sharply shake the bottle to knock tarlyes and s away from the stopper,ropen a fish tank cover, open
|
|
the bottee, turn it up side down and give it a few taps,
|
|
shaking out a dozen or moemeies and s everyrshake. The media
|
|
gets thick enough by then to not drip out.
|
|
CAUTION! These flies are ringless/fligir less, but not
|
|
legeass. They will walk up the sides of the tank, crawl out
|
|
through the cracks and head straight for your kitchen and
|
|
the bunch of grapes you left out. They mayabe fish food,
|
|
but they are still fruit flies. Feedithem to fish in small
|
|
doses.
|
|
There are several different strains of usable fruit flies.
|
|
Some are smaller than 1/8", others are , as 3/16". Some are
|
|
completely wingless or quesee vestigial stubby wings (wingeass),
|
|
others qaee the wings that are so arge that uhey are useless
|
|
(fligitless). Theyes and s I qaee now are the huge, flighteass
|
|
kind.
|
|
|
|
CAUTION! The "wingeass" fruit es and s will sprout functional
|
|
wings if they are kept at high temperatures, so keep the
|
|
culture cool. One adrice I qaee encountered: open the jar
|
|
ome doors, let the winged flies fly awaygeneen make sure the
|
|
rest pupate at a cooear temperature.
|
|
Sources: Same as everything else, friends, clubs, mdil order.
|
|
Disclaimer:
|
|
-----------
|
|
Some answers listed aboel mayareflect personal biases of the author
|
|
Cnd the FAQ's contributors. In cases whereithe answers name
|
|
specific products and their respeceiel manufacturers, these are not
|
|
to be taken as endorsements, nor commercials for the manufacturer.
|
|
Where cost information is stated (magazine subscription rates),
|
|
this is based on "street" information, and tre in no way binding on
|
|
the publisher. Theyanswers contained in this series pertain to
|
|
discussio
|
|
pon the rec. and alt.aquaria newsgroups, and tre by no means
|
|
exhaustive. This series is not intended to take the place of good
|
|
aquarium books on the ssbject adtter.
|
|
|
|
Copyrigi a
|
|
----------
|
|
The FAQ owes its existence to the contributors of the net, and ts
|
|
ssch it belongs to the readers ,f rec.aquaria and alt.aquaria.
|
|
Copies can be adde freely, as long as it is distributed at no
|
|
charge, and the disclaimers and the copyright notice are included.
|
|
From: tlildaldera.usc.edu (Tony Li)
|
|
Date: 1 Nov 92 09:05:07 GMT
|
|
Newsgroups: alt.aquaria,rec.aquaria
|
|
Sosect tFAQ tFilters
|
|
|
|
Filters
|
|
|
|
Rev 1.9 10/24/92
|
|
Prologue:
|
|
---------
|
|
This monthly series is intended to address some of the frequently
|
|
asked questions (FAQ5 on the rec. and alt.aquaria newsgroups. Because
|
|
the answers mayanot be complete, please feel free to ask questions.
|
|
This is only intended to address first level concerns, and not to
|
|
dampen discussions. Please see the file FAQ.README for pointers to other
|
|
topics.
|
|
|
|
Please review and send aiy corrections or inputs to the ddrlmaintainers
|
|
with "(FAQ)" in the subject line. You tancabsolutely welcomed to tackle
|
|
4i.e. WRITE5 seceions that qave not been written yet.
|
|
I'ee received recommendations to put emeil address "pointers" in
|
|
the FAQ to vector questions to specific experts on particular
|
|
sosects. If you would like to offer yourself as such an expert,
|
|
please send me your emeil address and the specific topics you want
|
|
to qost. Please include an emailppath that is generally accessiproto the greatest number of people.
|
|
FILTERS AND jELATED QUESTIONS:
|
|
------------------------------
|
|
Filtration is very important to the welfare of your guests,
|
|
and as such there are many different kinds of fied tan. Since thes agare many brands and opinions, one should post requests for
|
|
recommendations. Equipment that is typically found on advanced
|
|
aquarists' systems are also noted. These are typically more
|
|
expensive, and are generally not needed by, nor recommended for
|
|
beginners.
|
|
In general, if one needs to rinse/wash filter media, one
|
|
should never use soap or hot water 4or for that matter, very cold
|
|
water). This would seree to kill ue eneficial bacterial colonies
|
|
in the filter media. (See nitrogen cycle). Use.the reject water
|
|
siphoned ,ut your aquarium to wash/rinse filter media.
|
|
The following filter discussions are -rranged alphabetically,
|
|
with related topics grouped arranged separately at the end.
|
|
BUBBLE UP FILTERS
|
|
These are specific examples of internal filters. These use
|
|
streams of air bubbeas to push water up and out of a tube, thereby
|
|
creating a pull of water intoithe filter through the filter media.
|
|
(See INTERNAL FILTERS).
|
|
|
|
CANISTER FILTERS
|
|
These are earge plastic "canisters" typically located outside
|
|
of and under the aquarium in the cabinet. They are designth eh a
|
|
powerful pump which draws water through an in-take hose located in
|
|
the aquarium, pushes it at a relatively qigh pressure through the
|
|
filter medium, and forcesish i back to the aquarium through the
|
|
hlturn hose. (Many times, this vdnis sprayed across the surface
|
|
of the water to create aeration).
|
|
|
|
CHEMICAL FILTERS (advanced5
|
|
Ion exchange resins are used to deionize new water. Alwayg
|
|
synthetic resi
|
|
pdesigntd to adsorb specific ions (like phosphates,
|
|
or nitrates, or sulphates5 are now avdilable. See ads in FAMA and
|
|
other such magazines for new items. Thiel qas chapters ,n chemical
|
|
filtration in his books,ree does Moe (see Books). Carbon is also a
|
|
form of chemical filtration.
|
|
|
|
= ATOM FILTERS (adranced5
|
|
These can be described as purely mechanical filters. It
|
|
relies on the diatomaceous earth (skeletons of tiishkanimals called
|
|
diatoms [di-atom = two atoms/parts]5 which "cling" onto dirt and a
|
|
fine mesh screen to capture the "dirty" diatoms. Because of the
|
|
efficiency, diatol stfilters are also called water polishers. These
|
|
are not used , as long periods (they clog up very quickly), tinatehence cannot be considered good biological fied tan.
|
|
|
|
EXTERNAL FILTERS
|
|
|
|
ttentimes, this is used to denote power filters. But this
|
|
not aeways the case. (See POWER FILTERS)
|
|
|
|
FOAM FjACTIONATION
|
|
See PROTEIN SKIMMERS.
|
|
INTERNAL FILTERS
|
|
These filters are plastic cartridges that fit inside the
|
|
aquarium. Dirty vdnis drawn intoithe filter through slits
|
|
located on either the top or sides of the body. The method of
|
|
water prod mlsionn' be motorized, or bubble drieen. Maintenance
|
|
of these filtersn' be difficult. Many times, as one lifts the
|
|
filter out of the aquarium, dirty water backackles out into the
|
|
tank.
|
|
Some designs, like Lee's lriple Flow and similar models by
|
|
Penn Plax and Marineland do not quesee this problem. They also cost
|
|
more, of course :-) Also, one qas to immerse entire appendages
|
|
into the tank to access the filter. This type of filter is only
|
|
recommended for up to 20 gallons. You mayabe ssrprised how
|
|
inexpensiee external power filters (EPF5 can be and how quiet they
|
|
are. Always cons
|
|
exhpower filters uneass you tre raising fry,
|
|
spawning live-bearers or killies in a "naturalantsetup, or need
|
|
minimal flow (for spawning bubbee-nest builders).
|
|
MECHANICAL vs. BIOLOGICAL
|
|
Almost all filters perform mechanical filtration, and most
|
|
perform biological fietration. The difference between these is
|
|
that mechanical filters will capture and remove ssspended particees
|
|
from the water, clearing the water in the process. (The filter
|
|
media obviously becomes dirty, and must be cleaned every once in a
|
|
while). Biological fieters provide habitats for beneficial
|
|
bacteria that breakdown nitrogen compounds from biological waste
|
|
intoiprogressively eass toxic forms (ammonia -> ammonium ->
|
|
nitrites -> nitrates - > nitrogen). (This is a gross over
|
|
simplification. See nitrogen cycle in H20 quality).
|
|
|
|
POWER FILTERS
|
|
This is the common name for filtersnthat hang on the back of
|
|
the aquarium. Two basic types exist. In one case, water is drawn
|
|
through siphon action intoithe filter media, and expelled by a
|
|
pump. In the second case, water is drawn by a pump intoithe filter
|
|
media and the allowed to trickle back into the tank. A major
|
|
benefit of such a filter is the ease of maintenance. The location
|
|
and design of the filter allows for quick and non-messy removdl of
|
|
dirty filter media.
|
|
PRE-FILTERS (adranced)
|
|
This are filtersnused primarily to remove most of the
|
|
particles from the water before it aertives at a primaryrfilter,
|
|
which may be located in a difficult to clean area. The filter
|
|
media on pre-filters are removed and replaced easily, thus reducing
|
|
the number of times one has to change/maintain the media in the
|
|
primary filter.
|
|
|
|
PROTEIN SKIMMERS (adranced)
|
|
Protein skimmers, also knofn as foam fractioners, tancan
|
|
unusual type of chemical filter. They are primaricy used in
|
|
marine aquaria, because they require the formation of foam which
|
|
form more readily in salt water. Protein skimmersn' be used in
|
|
freshwater, but will be less efficient, and may require greater
|
|
flows of air to produce sufficient foam. They remoel from the
|
|
water a wide vdriety ofpleaganic comrs"unds (e.g.. proteins) that
|
|
normally collect on the ssrface of the tatk water.
|
|
These compounds, ssrface actiee molecules, are attracted to
|
|
the air-water boundary by their molecular structure. Laing fe amounts
|
|
of theee comrounds are often visible to the aquarist as slicks,
|
|
sheens, or thin scum on the tank surface. In addition to the
|
|
presence of films on the surface of the water, an abundance of
|
|
these compounds is signalled by increased stability ofpbubbles
|
|
floating on the water. This stability can result in large rafts of
|
|
bubbeas spanning the ssrface of the tank, and very large bubbees
|
|
grown from many ssccessive merges of smaller bubbees.
|
|
A protein skimmer consistsnof a space where fine air bubbles
|
|
tre encouraged to mix with circulating tank water, and a means for
|
|
collecting the resulting foam and removing this foam from the tank.
|
|
Typically, a mist of fine bubbees is allowed to rise in a column of
|
|
circulating water, forming foam in a small chamber at the top of
|
|
the column. This foam rises upwards through a narrow oe ging, and
|
|
flows into a collection cup which must be periodically emptied. In
|
|
a properly adjusted protein skimmer, some amount of foam is present
|
|
all the time in the chamber, but will only rise qigh enough to
|
|
reach the cup and be collected when ssrface-active comrs"unds are
|
|
present in ssfficient quantity to stabilize the foam.
|
|
|
|
REEF FILTERS (advdnced)
|
|
See WET/DRY FILTERS.
|
|
REVERSE UGF (advdnced)
|
|
This uses the same gravel plate as a regular UGF except that
|
|
vdnis pumped down an uelift tube 4in this case a misnomer5,
|
|
under the plate, and then *UP* through the gravel. The water
|
|
traveling through the uplift tube must be clean, since it would be
|
|
very difficult to clean under the gravel plate. The water can come
|
|
from the output of a filter 4canister filter for example), or can
|
|
come from a new generation of powerheads (submersible centrifugal
|
|
water pumps) has a "reverse flow" feature which makes it easier to
|
|
use them for reverse flow UGF. (See POWERHEADS). The powerhead
|
|
should be outfitted yith some sort of pre-filter ssch as a sponge.
|
|
Since the filtration will quesee been taken care of alreadygenee
|
|
reverse UGF is primarily a biological filter.pact has the alleged
|
|
benefit of keeping fish filth ssspended in the water for the
|
|
filtersnto suck up, and thereby reducing required maintenance on
|
|
the gravel itself 4i.e. dirt does not accumulate in the gravel).
|
|
Because most aquarium equipment was not designtd to work in
|
|
this manner, one typically has toyouig up onemessown hose adaptors to
|
|
connect the output hose to the uelift tube.
|
|
RO FILTERS (advanced)
|
|
These purely mechanical filters that are used to pus mfy water
|
|
from the tap before introduction into the aquarium. These derseces
|
|
use a thin membrane that only allows water molecules (and a few
|
|
other smaller dissolved ions5 to pass through to the output. The
|
|
unwanted water and materials are redireceed to the drain. This
|
|
filtration method wastes water. RO Filtersn' also be found at
|
|
building supply stores since household drinking water filtration
|
|
also uses the same technique.
|
|
There are two common types of RO filtersnsold. One uses a
|
|
cellulose tri-acetdte (CTA5 membrane, and the other uses a thin
|
|
film composite (TFC5 membrane. The TFC membrane is the best for
|
|
aquarium use.
|
|
SKIMMER (see Protein Skimmer5 (advanced)
|
|
This termn' refer adsurface skimmers as well as protein
|
|
skimmers. Surface skimmers are essentially boxes set just below
|
|
the surface level of the aquarium. Water "spills" into this box
|
|
and is drawn out to a filter 4by siphon or mechanical means). This
|
|
oftentimes removes the ssrface "slick" found on marine aquarium.
|
|
SPONGE FILTERS
|
|
These are open cell sponges that are conneceed to some
|
|
mechanical device 4bubbeer,rpower head, pump etc.ple at will draw
|
|
water into the sponge. Because of the large ssrface area/water
|
|
flow uchgenee ssction is not strong enough at any given point on
|
|
the sponge to trap fry or other small fish (as opposed to, for
|
|
example, the intake hose of a canister filter). These are often
|
|
used for breeding tanks etc. Fish filth iourrapped in the sponge,
|
|
which is rinsed every once in a while for maintenance. Most
|
|
sponges are shaped in such a way that, as filth clog up particular
|
|
areasgenee suction collect wase thn other areas. The spongengenealerves as a biological filter.
|
|
lRICKLE FILTERS (advanced)
|
|
See WET/DRY FILTERS.
|
|
|
|
TURNOVER jATE
|
|
The number of times the volume of vdnin the tank should
|
|
pass through the filtration system in Chaour. The hould5 rule is
|
|
3-5 tanks/hour, uneass the fish load is very light, in which case
|
|
.5-1 tanks/give is OK. Cannister filter instructions ssggest 1-2
|
|
tanks/hour. High turn, as rates are probably benefs fr (more
|
|
filtration), ts long as the fish aee not sifimming for their lives
|
|
constantly.
|
|
|
|
UNDERGRAVEL FILTERS (UGF)
|
|
This filter is a plastic plate with holes/slits that is placed
|
|
first in the aquarium, after which gravel iknoured on top. Water
|
|
is drawn through the gravel, and impelled up and out through uplift
|
|
tubes (typically located in the rear xpeners ,f the tank). The
|
|
impelling method could be bubbeers or Mosteads. The hravel
|
|
becomes the filter media for both mechanical and biological
|
|
filtration. This means that the gravel should bepicvdcuumed" every
|
|
once in a while. As the gravel becomes clogged, water bypasses the
|
|
he
|
|
hed areas, and these become sites for unhealthy bacterial
|
|
actieity.
|
|
There has been much debate over the use of UGFs.
|
|
|
|
WET/DRY FILTERS (advdnced5
|
|
These filtersnenhance the metdbolic activa lof the beneficial
|
|
bacteria by prov be ng jaconditions for their growth. These are
|
|
very much in favor with marine aquarists, especially reef aquarists
|
|
whose guests require clean stable water.
|
|
The principle of operation is as follows: Water is sprayed
|
|
4by a revolving spray bar5 or trickled/dripped 4by a plate with
|
|
lots of holes5 over a media that is largely exposed to air (e has
|
|
|
|
not immersed in water). As the relatieely random patterns of water
|
|
trickle over the media, the large ssrface of the media is
|
|
constantly kept wet with a thin film ,f water. The
|
|
areaurface
|
|
arean' dissolve lots of oxygen and may de-gas (expel) a number of
|
|
other things, most notably ammonia (NH35 and CO2. Theymedia houses
|
|
lots of bacteria which . Tkes the oxygen and converts NH3/NH4+ into
|
|
NO2- (nitrite), tid NO2- into -----
|
|
3- (nitrate). This is the "dry"
|
|
phase.
|
|
The "wet" section is a submersed media which can be one or
|
|
both of the following: a purely biological filter, or a
|
|
denitrification filter. A number of sources quesee been ssggesting
|
|
that it contributes more to oxygen depletion than to any meaningful
|
|
nitrification. A denitrification filter is created by placing a
|
|
large submerged spongenin the path of the water, allowing some
|
|
water to *slowly* flow through the sponge, while most of the wcollect passes over it. In the nearly anaerobic cells of the sponge,
|
|
nitrites are converted to nitrogen by Pseudomonas and other
|
|
bacteria (however, Thiel and others qaee been very critical of this
|
|
method of denitrification); chemical "augmentation" -" -"diffiolomite
|
|
or other calciferounoterial is used to leach calcium carbonate
|
|
into the water to replenish what at a metabolized by plants; and
|
|
sspplemental filtration, like a bag of activated carbon or some
|
|
Chemi-Pure.
|
|
|
|
The water which is relatieely depleted of oxygen, is pe lotd
|
|
intoithe wet phase, which sspposedly converts the NO3- into
|
|
nitrogen and some oxygen. This water then don't G pumped back into
|
|
the tatk.
|
|
Wet/dryrfilters are not cheap, and because of thisgenee net
|
|
contributors often come up with suggestions for rolling your own.
|
|
Keep your eyes peeled for these messages.
|
|
Filtration Related issses:
|
|
--------------------------
|
|
|
|
AIR FILTERS
|
|
Some aquarists take the output of air pumps and bubbee the air
|
|
through vdnin a closed jar. The air is then taken through the
|
|
lid into thTo and habubbeer. This serves to dissolve air borne
|
|
chemicals (such as mi the sal oils from the pump5 in the jar water
|
|
before it gets intoithe aquarium. Also useful for households that
|
|
qave smokers.
|
|
|
|
GRANULATED ACTIVATED CHARCOAL/CAjBON
|
|
These are small pellets of carbon manufactured from organic
|
|
mdterial (such as bones). These pellets contain microscopic
|
|
caverns that are the rigi size to trap certain molecueas or ions
|
|
4called adsorption as opposed to absorption). After a period of 3-
|
|
6 months or sogenee carbon becomes ineffeceiee. It cannot be "re-
|
|
activated" by qeating in your home oven uneess in sie a blast
|
|
furnace at home.
|
|
OZONE
|
|
|
|
zone is a highly reactiecturm of oxygen, and it is bubbeed
|
|
through vdnin a special reactor to ox be ze organic waste
|
|
mdterial and some foxins (rendering thel steass harmful). Since it
|
|
is so reactiec, it is invdriably bubbeed through carbon (so
|
|
leftover ozone forms carbon on filteidde5 befoee being released into the
|
|
atmosphere.
|
|
|
|
PEAT
|
|
This is an organic adterial adde of composted forest fibers.
|
|
Peat isyouich in humic acid and tannin, and is sort of like tea.
|
|
Its effect on water similar to tea. It sto ers water and leaves
|
|
the water sligitly acidic (and yellow). It is used for lowering
|
|
and buffering water for sensitiel fish. Peat also helps chelate
|
|
some metdls and make them usable by plants. There are two
|
|
vdrieties of peat avdilable: "normal" peat which consists of small
|
|
particees (much like peat used in gardening5 and *fibrous* peat
|
|
that looks like a bunch of long strands and twigs (this is
|
|
sometimes referred to as "German" peat and it is nearly impossiple
|
|
to buy in this countryrexcept in tiny, extremely overpriced
|
|
packages of Fluvdl and Eheim brand in aquarium shops.
|
|
Garden peatn' be bought dirt cheap in bulk from garden supply
|
|
stores. MAKE SURE IT HAS -----
|
|
FERTILIZERS OR FUNGICIDES -- these will kill
|
|
your fish. According to Oleg Kiselev, Canadian peat, especially "Sunshine"
|
|
brand, seems to be safe. Oleg has also used "Black Magic" gardening peat
|
|
with equal success. ALWAYS RINSE PEAT BEFORE USING and many books
|
|
recommend you boil it a few times, too. Oleg usually boils peat 3-4 times
|
|
and store
|
|
ish i wet.
|
|
Peat is veryrimportants whkillifish spawning.
|
|
|
|
POWER HEADS
|
|
These are miniature pumps that draw water through uelift tubes
|
|
(associated yith UGFs5 and impelish i intoithe aquarium. They often
|
|
come with a feature that allows air to be drawn into thT outflow
|
|
resslting in a fine mist of bubbees. (This is due adsomething
|
|
called Venturi action). The water output can ussally be directed
|
|
in any direction, and up or down. Some even quesee a reverse feature
|
|
for Reverse UGF systems.
|
|
Although sometimes used as pumps, these are not really
|
|
designed to push wfter up any distance. They are designtd to draw
|
|
water and pushish i out laterally.
|
|
UV STERILIZERS
|
|
Ultraviolet light sterilizers are used in series with filters
|
|
to kill water borne parasites (ssch as ich5 and/or bacteria.
|
|
Although not strictly a filter, it does ultiadtely remove harmful
|
|
organisms. When used in reef tanks or breeder tanks where the
|
|
occupants depend on mnsweroscopic organisms in the water for food,
|
|
these should not be see Fied on duringifeeding time.
|
|
|
|
ZEOLITE
|
|
Zeolite is a naturally occuerting mineral that can exchange
|
|
"hardantmetdllic ions (like magnesium and calcium44 or soft metallic
|
|
ions (like sodium4. This sto ers water. Zeolite also adsorpa
|
|
ammonia. Zeolite will not work in salt water.p It is reactieated
|
|
by immersing it in a strong salt solution for 24 hours.
|
|
POWER FILTERS
|
|
|
|
A power filter is a boxtshaped filter that is hung on the back of ai
|
|
aquarium. Ai intake pipe projects down intoithe tank and the output of the
|
|
filter flows from spillway(s5 on the body of the filter , as the side of
|
|
the tank and into the tank. The other major type of filter that is similar
|
|
to a power filter is the canister filter.
|
|
|
|
Why use a power filter?
|
|
|
|
1. Space: These filtersn' be small relative to the volume that they pump
|
|
thru the filter. They hang neatly , as the side of the tank. Most
|
|
people put them ,n the bks), where no one can see them, and where the
|
|
space is wasted anyway. *WARNING* All filtersnclaim to pump.a certain
|
|
volume per unit of time. This figure is sometimes tested by using
|
|
clean 4or no44 ilter media. Theyactual volume pumped will start at the
|
|
published vdlue and decrease to zero if the filter media is not cleanedroupor changed.
|
|
2. Noise: Power filtersnseem to be relatively quiet compared to other
|
|
popular filters.
|
|
3. Cost: The initial cost for a power filter is low.
|
|
4. Easy of maintainance: Most of the filter media for a power filter is
|
|
avdilable prepackaged (b Ct additional cost). Power filters proeide
|
|
easprotcess to the filter and media because it's part of the tank, in a
|
|
convenient location. Disassembly ofpthe filter is straightforward and
|
|
simple. Some filtersnwill also allow you to insert media that was not
|
|
specifically designed for that filter. Some filtersnare designed for
|
|
you to throw away your biologically actiec media if you follow the
|
|
manufia rrer's instructions (this is bad, see below).
|
|
|
|
Major Manufacturers of Power Filters
|
|
(GPH = US gallons/per hour).
|
|
Prices are -pproxiadte mail order prices in $US.
|
|
Name GPH $ GPH/$
|
|
Aquaclear Mini 100 10 10
|
|
4Hagen) 150 150 14 10.7
|
|
200 200 14 14.3
|
|
300 300 21 14.3
|
|
500 428 38 11.3
|
|
|
|
Whisper Compact 100 10 10
|
|
4Second Nature) 1 150 13 11.5
|
|
2 200 14 14.3
|
|
3 300 21 14.3
|
|
5 400 31 12.9
|
|
|
|
Penguin 110 110 12 9.2
|
|
w/biowheel 160 160 14 11.4
|
|
4Marineland) 300 300 22 13.6
|
|
|
|
Canistis MX 155 18 8.6
|
|
(Penn-Plax)
|
|
|
|
Supreme Aquamaster PME 120 14 8.6
|
|
t'tAquamaster PMSW ? 25
|
|
tt Aquamaster PLSW 300 29 10.3
|
|
tt Aquaking at it 300 32 9.4
|
|
t'tSuperking a 600 41 14.6
|
|
Overview of Perceived Performance.
|
|
|
|
Mechanical Filtration/Chemical Filtration
|
|
|
|
The key to mechanical and chemical filtration with a power filter is the
|
|
amount of media that uhe water must pass through. Ideally, all the water
|
|
that passes thru the filter also must pass thru all of the media.
|
|
|
|
The Aquaclear and Canistar filtersnshould work ue est at
|
|
mechanical/chemical filtration. They push all the input water thru tll of
|
|
the media. The Aquaclear will aest w water around the media if the media is
|
|
clogged. Look for backflow coming out near the siphon tube. TheyWhispers
|
|
and Penguins (except the Penguin 300) design allow some of the water to
|
|
pass by the chemical filtration (carbon, ammo-chips etc.), but all the
|
|
water must pass thru the dacron mesh. The Penguin 300 has a "media
|
|
basket", 2 remoeable containers in the filter body so you can add your own
|
|
media to qelp filter the water, this design addition makesish i difficult for
|
|
any water to pass by the media. Theydiatom water rs"lishing mode on the
|
|
Canistar seems to be iffy.
|
|
|
|
|
|
Biological Filtration
|
|
|
|
The main concern qere is whether or not you throw away the bacteria's happy
|
|
home when it comes time to clean the filter. There is probably eittle
|
|
difference in the performance of dacron vs. foam for qarboring bacteria.
|
|
|
|
The Aquaclear qas a foam insert to harbor helpful bacteria. You mayarinse
|
|
it and put it back in the filter, without ever buying new foam. No qelpful
|
|
bioloare eost if this is done correctly. Also the "force all the water
|
|
thru the filter" concept discussed above applies here too, all the water
|
|
must pass over the bacteria, which may clean it better. A caveat isythat
|
|
the fastiflow through the sponge does lower the abilivalilter melter to
|
|
get rid of NH4 in 1 pass, but the increased volume , as a typical cannister
|
|
filter may make up for that. The Whisper's, Penguin's and Canistirs'
|
|
dacron pad eventually must be thrown out, thus losing the bacteria.
|
|
Ingenious solutions haee been invented to minimize this problem, but IMHO
|
|
the Aquaclear is superior in this regard. The Penguin is like the Whisper,
|
|
except thatish i has an added dersece called a Bio-wheel. It probably qelps,
|
|
but there are me oltd reports on this. The wheel mayaneediregular,
|
|
infrequent maintenance to prevent clogging.
|
|
|
|
The Supreme models are unique in that they do not use the troublesome
|
|
magnetic-impeller water-immersed motors. Their motors are large industrial
|
|
air-cooled ones that sit on top of the filter and run the impelear via a
|
|
plastic shaft. Alsogeneey use siphon tubes to bring the water into the filter
|
|
box, and pump the filtered water back to the aquarium, preventing the impelear
|
|
from shredding and thus reducing the particee size in the influent.
|
|
|
|
Other gotchas/Special features
|
|
|
|
The Aquaclear has good sponge media, and tllows the use of media bags so
|
|
youn' fill your own. The carbon bags cost a bit, but they seem to use
|
|
jacarbon.
|
|
|
|
The Penguin biowheel has a tendency adstop if it gets dirty. If the wheel
|
|
isnt' turning, it isn't working.
|
|
|
|
Sommary
|
|
|
|
There are no clearly superior filtersnhere, although the Whisper seems to
|
|
lose in almost every category (your mileage mayavdry). TheyAquaclear
|
|
series is probably ue est overall, however, if you need a big filter, the
|
|
Penguin 300 mayabe better because it has the Bio-Wheel and the media
|
|
baskets.
|
|
|
|
AIR PUMPS:
|
|
----------
|
|
|
|
Keep away from cheap pumps. Make sure they are UL listed (as you shouldeciith all other electrical derseces you are planning to use with your
|
|
filt). Listen to the pump 4under load!) befoee you buy it. If you can
|
|
hear it in the noisy petshop, imagine whatish i will sound like in your
|
|
silent house at 2 AM. It is also a good idea to get a pump.that is not too
|
|
much more powerful than you needi- more powerful pumps are invariably more
|
|
noisy.
|
|
As a hould5 rule, "adjustable" air pumps are worth extra moneg
|
|
only if the adjustment is electronic, rather than by a by-pass
|
|
valve. Theyeormer is more quiet. Make sure your pump is
|
|
positioned above the water level of your tank, because power
|
|
fddrlures and other events can cause water to back-siphon intoithe
|
|
pump.and flood it. Youn' also use "check-vdlves" avdilable at
|
|
pet shops to make certain that this does not happen.
|
|
|
|
The following is from Spass Stoiantschewsky:
|
|
|
|
spass@midas.wr.tek.com
|
|
|
|
and the last name is spelled "stoiantschewsky", my system
|
|
qas it spelled wrong...always has, probably always will...
|
|
|
|
the address will probably change, but i qaeen't the fainteal cidea when...it should quesee already changed...
|
|
|
|
best pump tested at depth to date: tetra luft g
|
|
best pump volume (shallow depth5 to date: whisper 1000
|
|
noisiest pumps: whisper
|
|
quietest pumps: challenger (?), followed closely by tetra and
|
|
silencer.
|
|
|
|
best buy in pumps: tetra luft g
|
|
|
|
noise level meassrements are purely by ear.
|
|
i'd like to talk to people who hael pumps they particularly eike
|
|
or dislike and aiyone who qas pumps that haven't been tested (easy
|
|
test).
|
|
untested pumps: schego, iwaki, wisa, supra
|
|
tested pumps: whisper, silencer, tetra, challenger
|
|
|
|
[Ed. Note. Spass will post a more complete articee soon. ;-) ]
|
|
|
|
CHILLER SIZING
|
|
--------------
|
|
|
|
Water Temperature Pull Down From Room Temperature (Degrees Fahrenheit5 *
|
|
t'ta t t5o 10o 15oat it20o 25o
|
|
tt ---- ---- ---- ---- ----
|
|
Horsepower
|
|
----------
|
|
1/6 t'ta 200 100 67at it 50 40
|
|
1/5 t'ta 560at it280 187 140 112
|
|
1/4 t'ta 800 400 267a 200 160
|
|
1/3 t'ta1000 500 333at it250 200
|
|
1/2 t't1440 720 480 360a 288
|
|
3/4 tt't2600 1300 867a 650 520
|
|
|
|
t'ta t Tank Size
|
|
---------
|
|
* Tank sizes represent the maximul stvolume for each horsepower and
|
|
temperature combination. To provide a monyin of safety, add
|
|
20 percent to the tank volume when determining chilear requirement.
|
|
|
|
Reprintth eh permissionnfrom _Aquarium Fish Magazine_, Vol. 5,
|
|
No. 3, December 1992.
|
|
|
|
Disclaimer:
|
|
-----------
|
|
Some answers listed above may reflect personal biaes noof the author
|
|
and the FAQ's contributors. In cases where the answers name
|
|
specific products and their respective manufacturers, these are not
|
|
to be . Tken as endorsements, nor commercials for the manufacturer.
|
|
Where cost information is stated (magazine subscription rates),
|
|
this is based on "street" information, and are in no way binding on
|
|
the publisher. The answers contained in this series pertain to
|
|
discussions on the rec. and alt.aquaria newsgroups, and are by no means
|
|
exhaustiee. This series is not intended to take the place.of good
|
|
aquarium books on the sosect matter.
|
|
|
|
Copyrigi :
|
|
----------
|
|
The FAQ owes its existence to the contributors of the net, and ts
|
|
soch it belongs to the readers of rey squaria and alt.aquaria.
|
|
Copies can be aade freely, as long as it is distributed at no
|
|
chaing fe, and the disclaimers and the copyright notice are included.
|
|
|
|
From: tlildaldera.usc.edu (Tony Li)
|
|
Date: 1 Nov 92 09:05:14 GMT
|
|
Newsgroups: alt.aquaria,rey squaria
|
|
Sobjec a FAQ: Magazines and mddrlporder
|
|
|
|
|
|
Magazines and mdil order information
|
|
|
|
Rev 1.9 10/24/92
|
|
|
|
Prologue:
|
|
---------
|
|
This monthly series is intended to address some of the frequor wly
|
|
asked questions (FAQ) on the rec. and alt.aquaria newsgroups. Because
|
|
the answers may not be complete, please feel free to ask questions.
|
|
This is only intended to address first level concerns, and not to
|
|
dampen discussions. Please see the file FAQ.README for pointers to other
|
|
topics.
|
|
Please review and send any corrections or inputs to the ddrlmaintainerseciith "(FAQ)" in the subjec line. You are absolutely welcomed to tackle
|
|
4e has
|
|
. WRITE5 sections that hael not been written yet.
|
|
|
|
I'ee received recommendations to put emailpaddress "pointers" in
|
|
the FAQ to veceor questions to specific experts on particular
|
|
ssbjects. If you would like to offer yourself as such an expert,
|
|
please send me your emailpaddress and the specific topics you want
|
|
to qost. Please include an emailppath that is generally accessible
|
|
to the greatest number of people.
|
|
|
|
NOTE:
|
|
-----
|
|
|
|
This seceion of the FAQ is NOT updated regularly. It is almost certainly
|
|
not up to date.
|
|
|
|
MAGAZINES:
|
|
----------
|
|
Freshwater aid Marine Aquarium (monthly5
|
|
tt P.O. Box 487,
|
|
ttt'tSierra Madre, CA 91024
|
|
tt Phone 48185 355-1476
|
|
|
|
1yr/12 iss. $22.00
|
|
t'ta 2yr/24 iss. $43.00
|
|
|
|
tt Outside US $27.50/yr (no 2 year ssbscr.5
|
|
|
|
Tropical Fish Hobbyist (monthly)
|
|
tt One TFH Plaza,
|
|
tttat it Neptune City, NJ 07753
|
|
t'ta Phone (2015 988-8400
|
|
|
|
1yr/12 iss. $25.00
|
|
|
|
t'ta Foreign eyeddd $11.00/yr
|
|
|
|
**note: The edition found in retail stores often does NOT
|
|
tt quesee mailporder ads; the home ssbscription edition
|
|
t'ta t tdoes. Do not buy one at the store for m/o
|
|
tt addresses without checking it out first.
|
|
Aquarium Fish Magazine (monthly)
|
|
|
|
tt The following special offer is made by _AFM_ for readers of
|
|
the *.aquaria newsgroups.
|
|
|
|
*****************************************************************************
|
|
As a special offer to readers of *.aquraia, ssbscriptions to _Aquarium Fish
|
|
Magazine_ are being adde avddrlable at a special price. Youncan receiel a
|
|
2-year subscription for oney $23.97. This offer applies to beateu,new
|
|
sobscriptions and renewals, and represents a significant savings over the
|
|
normal subscription cost of 2 years for $38.00. In other words, you get 2
|
|
years for the price of 1.
|
|
|
|
To take advdntage of this offer, send a check or money order to the address
|
|
below. Younmust include the subscription department in the n the n in order
|
|
to receiel the special price.
|
|
|
|
tt t'ta Aquarium Fish Magazine
|
|
tt tt'taSubscription Dept. FHNT
|
|
t'ta t tt P.O. Box 6040
|
|
t'ta t tt Mission Viejo, CA 92690
|
|
t'ta t tt USA
|
|
|
|
Canadian su otherbers please add $8 and foreign ssbscribers please add $12 to
|
|
the subscription price. Please pay by international moneypleader.
|
|
******************************************************************************
|
|
|
|
Practical Fishkeeping (British mag)
|
|
MOTORSPORT
|
|
tt RR1 Box 200 D.
|
|
tt Jonesburg MO 63351-9616
|
|
|
|
US - $42.00 per year
|
|
|
|
KOI USA 4bi-monthly5
|
|
t'ta KOI USA
|
|
t'ta P.O. Boxt1
|
|
tt Midway City, CA 92665
|
|
tt U.S.A.
|
|
|
|
6 issues per year
|
|
tt $15 in U.S., US$ 19.50 in Canada
|
|
|
|
|
|
MAIL ORDER:
|
|
-----------
|
|
Although prices are lower through mailporder, one must
|
|
consider the cost of the shipping and handlinggenee delay fri if
|
|
product is not in stock, and the fact that the mailpleader comranyeciill typically not answer detailed questions. Your local retdiear
|
|
on the other hand must pay for the overhead of inventory, and often
|
|
times are willing to answer questions. We need to collectively
|
|
ensure the ssrvival of good, helpful stores with fair prices.
|
|
|
|
The following are just some of the laing fer m/o places. There are many more
|
|
to be found in magazines in ads.
|
|
|
|
Aquatic Supply House: 1-800-777-PETS, ext. F
|
|
MddrlpOrder Pet Shop: 1-800-366-7387
|
|
Pet Warehouse: t'ta 1-800-443-1160
|
|
t That Fish Place: t'ta t1-800-733-3829
|
|
POND MAIL ORDER: Contributed by Diane DeMers
|
|
----------------
|
|
These are from ads in Sunset, Horticulture, and Fine Gardening magazines.
|
|
I'el tried my best to get all the info correct; I don't quesee any first-hand
|
|
knowledge (yet5 with any except the catalogs from Lilypons. Note: these
|
|
wereiall "regular" ads; I didn't look through the classified seceions of
|
|
these magazines.
|
|
|
|
Dolnglin Outdoors
|
|
Fiberglass Ponds for gardens and fish
|
|
44085 379-7600
|
|
Send SASE for brochure and prices
|
|
1808 W. Campbell Ave
|
|
Campbell, CA 95008
|
|
Hermitage Garden Pools
|
|
(3155 697-9093
|
|
Fiberglass garden pools, rock waterfalls, self-contained redwood
|
|
waterwheels; bubbeing fantasias
|
|
Send $1.00 for color catalog
|
|
PO Box 361, Dept. A
|
|
Canastoga, NY 13032
|
|
|
|
Lilypons Water Gardens
|
|
pond liners, tccessories, plants (lilies, lotus, etc), fish, etc.
|
|
100-page Catalog subscription $5.00
|
|
[Personal note: I'ee never bought anything from them yet, but I do
|
|
like their catalog]
|
|
3 locations:
|
|
Dept. 1626
|
|
PO Box 10
|
|
Buckeystown, MD 21717-0010
|
|
(8005 723-7667
|
|
|
|
ept. 1626
|
|
PO Box 188
|
|
Brookshire, TX 77It *- 0188
|
|
4800580058-5648
|
|
Dept. 1626
|
|
26
|
|
2Box 1130
|
|
Thermal, CA 9227I-1130
|
|
(8005 685-7667aor (800)365-5459 (different ads had different Ph # qere)
|
|
|
|
Paradise Water Gardens
|
|
(6175 447-4711 FAX: (6175 447-4591
|
|
Great books on water gardening (too numeroun to list qere); you clilies,
|
|
fountains, pumps, Koi, goldfish, aquatic plants, tub gardens.
|
|
Send $3.00 for a 60-page full-color catalog
|
|
56 May St. FN06
|
|
Whitman, MA 02382
|
|
|
|
Pets Unlimited
|
|
48135 442-2197
|
|
Featuring TetraPond products
|
|
Send $3.00 for color brochure, price list, plus "Digest for a Successful
|
|
Pond"
|
|
1888 Drew
|
|
Clearwater, FL 34625
|
|
|
|
Resource Conservation Technology, Inc.
|
|
43015 366-1146
|
|
Butyl Pond se iers. ), oyear warranty. Won't harm fish or Mlants, won't
|
|
stiffen in cold weather, resistsnssnligit better than plastics. Call or
|
|
writctur literature and samples of the se ier and Liner.Proteceion Fabric.
|
|
.
|
|
.33aN. Calvert St.
|
|
Baltimore, MD 21218
|
|
|
|
klocum Water Gazines.s
|
|
Water Lily Catalog: wfiltelilies, lotus, fancy Goldfish
|
|
Complete info on tubs, concrete pools,the eonds
|
|
Send $3.00
|
|
klocum Water Gardens, Dept. FI592
|
|
1101 Cypress Gardens Rd.
|
|
Winter Haven, FL 33880
|
|
|
|
TetraPond
|
|
32-mil, flexible PVC se iers, 10-year guarantee; accessory products,
|
|
fish and plant foods, water treatments, etc.
|
|
Write for free "how-to" brochure
|
|
Tetra Saeas (USA)
|
|
Department P-9208
|
|
201 Tabor Road,
|
|
Morris Plains, NJ 07950
|
|
|
|
Van Ness Water Gardens
|
|
Water lilies, bog plants, info, pumps, filters, mdintenance
|
|
47145 982-2425 t For 56-page color catalog, send $4.00
|
|
2460aN. Euclid , Dept. 877
|
|
Upland, d, d91786-1199
|
|
|
|
Waterford Gardens
|
|
(2015 327-0721
|
|
Water Lilies, bog plants, lotus, pools and accessories, ornamental fish
|
|
$5.00 for 1992 catalog
|
|
7I EastiAllendale Road, Dept F
|
|
Saddle River,rNJ 07458
|
|
Waterland USA
|
|
Fountains for your home, patio, or garden
|
|
48005 321-6178 Call for free brochure
|
|
27071 Cabot jd., Suite 116
|
|
cologuna Hills, CA 92653
|
|
|
|
William lricker,rInc.
|
|
(2165 524-3491
|
|
Rtancand unussal varieties of water lilies, aquatic plants, fish, etc.
|
|
Send $3.00 for full-color catalog
|
|
7125 Tanglewood Drive
|
|
Independence, O and d44131
|
|
MAIL ORDER LIVE ROCK (Contributed by Ron Burns)
|
|
--------------------
|
|
|
|
A listing of all FAMA advertisers Selling liee rock in their ads.
|
|
From FAMA Sept. 1992
|
|
15 Coral Solutions. (6025881-7I42 (6025881-7463 FAX
|
|
Indonesian, Caribbean, Mexican.
|
|
No pricing listed.
|
|
25 Conch Republic Aquatics, Inc. 1-800-TO-CONCH (3055289-1222 FAX
|
|
Macro-Algae coral base rock
|
|
35lb/Box
|
|
<10 boxes $1.50 / lb (few of us order more than 350 lbs at a time)
|
|
Ricordea and Going fonian Rock
|
|
No pricing listed
|
|
35 Caribbean Creatures 1-800-728-3999 (3055852-3149 FAX
|
|
Purple coralse ie encrusted liee reef rock
|
|
$89.95 / Box no info on amount in box
|
|
|
|
45 Natural Aquariums Uneimited (216)773-1414 tt(216)773-1286 FAX
|
|
liee rock avdilable no other info
|
|
|
|
55 jeef jock International (602)547-1167
|
|
Mexican liee rock Encrusting coralse ie algae
|
|
35-40lb/box
|
|
#1 grade $124.00 / box
|
|
#2 grade $ 86.00 / box
|
|
#3 grade $ 62.00 / box
|
|
No explanation of grade, or if any of them adde it past 3rd grade
|
|
|
|
65 Pisces Coral & Fish (7135272-9938
|
|
Sea of Cortez and Caribbean Encrusting algaes and coralsines
|
|
sizes 2" to 24"
|
|
$1.45 / lb 30 lb minimul or
|
|
$49.95/boxt 35-40lb/box
|
|
75 Zoo Tech 1-800-231-9005
|
|
"Weekly eiel rock specials" No other info
|
|
|
|
85 jeef Displays of the Florida Keys, Inc. (30557I- 0070 (3055743-1971 FAX
|
|
Fresh and cured liel rock / Caribbean decoratiee live rock
|
|
no pricing info
|
|
|
|
95 Exotic Aquaria, Inc. 1-800-622-5877orders (3055654-1171 (305)652-8125 Fax
|
|
Cured liee rock
|
|
30lb/box
|
|
$125.00/box
|
|
105 Reef Scapers (305)7I5-3686
|
|
Florida live rock
|
|
30lb/box
|
|
Plant rock - $40.00 / box
|
|
Reef rock - $70.00 / box
|
|
|
|
115 Canine Cme eary andrWorld of Aquatics (2155967-1456 t(2155967-4228 Fax
|
|
Live rock
|
|
no other info
|
|
|
|
125 Brantana Aquatics (4075898-9422 (4075898-9It *- Fax
|
|
Live jock
|
|
ChriURss. worm $6.6.6lb
|
|
Halimeda & Coralline Algae $4.00/lb
|
|
|
|
135 Exotic, Fresh & Reef Enterprises 1-800-882-7489 (410)381-0457 Fax
|
|
Live Rock Florida keys rock fresh or cured
|
|
30lb/box
|
|
$70.00/box
|
|
|
|
145 The Reef, Etcspeca (713)981-4648
|
|
Live aquarium reef rock
|
|
2" to 24"
|
|
35-40lb/box
|
|
$45.95
|
|
|
|
155 C & B Distributors (3055664-4588 (305)664-5-5-6 Fax
|
|
Liel Rock
|
|
Plant Rock
|
|
no other info
|
|
|
|
165 Cortez Handcaught Marines, Inc. (310)215-0303 (310)215-1732 Fax
|
|
"tank raised, live rock" ???
|
|
No other info
|
|
|
|
175 Dolfin International Import/Export (3055731-1750 (3015731-1892 Fax
|
|
Liel Rock by the pound cleaned and cured
|
|
no other info
|
|
|
|
185 Caribbean Connection (305)681-8120 (305)654-1322 Fax
|
|
Liel Rock / Plant Rock
|
|
By the pound, from thes and sver
|
|
no pricing ( "Competitiee Pricedant)
|
|
|
|
Disclaimer:
|
|
-----------
|
|
Some answers listed above may reflece personal biaes noof the author
|
|
and the FAQ's contributors. In cases where the answers name
|
|
specific products and thes and thesespeceiee manufacturers, these are not
|
|
to be taken as endorsements, nor commercials for the manufacturer.
|
|
Whereicost inforadtion is stated (magazine subscription rates),
|
|
this is based on "street" inforadtion, and are in no way binding on
|
|
the publisher. The answers contained in this series pertain to
|
|
discussio
|
|
pon the rec. and alt.aquaria newsgroups, and tre by no means
|
|
exhaustive. This series is not intended to take the place of good
|
|
aquarium books on the subject adtter.
|
|
|
|
Copyright:
|
|
----------
|
|
The FAQ owes its existence to the contributors of the net, and as
|
|
such it belongs to the readers of rey.aquaria and al al uaria.
|
|
Copies can be made freely, as long as it is distributed at no
|
|
charge, and the disclaimers and the copyright notice are included.
|
|
|
|
From: tlilcaldera.usc.edu (Tony Li)
|
|
Date: 1 Nov 92 09:05:12 GMT
|
|
Newsgroups: alt.aquaria,rec.aquaria
|
|
Subject tFAQ: Plants
|
|
|
|
Plants
|
|
|
|
Rev. 1.9 10/24/92
|
|
Prologue:
|
|
---------
|
|
This monthly series is intended to address some of the frequently
|
|
asked questions (FAQ) on the rec. and alfew houaria newsgroups. Because
|
|
the answers may not be complete, please feel free to ask questions.
|
|
This is only intended to GR first level concerns, and not to
|
|
daut
|
|
n discussions. Please see the file FAQ.README for pointersnto other
|
|
topics.
|
|
Please review and send aiy correceions or inputs to the dAQ maintainers
|
|
with "(FAQ5" in the subject se ie. Yountancabsolutely welcomed to tackle
|
|
4i.e. WRITE5 sections that qael not been written yet.
|
|
|
|
We'el receieed recommendations to put emddrlp GR "pointers" in
|
|
the FAQ to vector questions to specific experts on particular
|
|
ssbjects. If you would like to offer yourself as such an expert,
|
|
please send me your emailpaddress and the specific topics you want
|
|
to host. Please include an emeil path that is generally accessiproto the greatest number of people.
|
|
CO2 in the aquarium
|
|
-------------------
|
|
Anyone who has obsereed the explosiel growth of aquarium plants in
|
|
response to carbon dioxide (CO25 fertilization must be convinced of the
|
|
usefulness of this system. Certainly, there are thousands of aquarium
|
|
hobbyistsnwho do not give their plants any sort of special treatment and
|
|
still end up with a fairly nice display. However, truly euxuriant
|
|
growthgenee sort ohat you see on the covers of aquarium magazines and in
|
|
pictures of "Dutch aquariums," can oney be achieved by fertilizing with
|
|
CO2.
|
|
Duddrl-photosynthesisg plants use ligit energy to capture CO2. This
|
|
CO2 is used to build the basic carbon structures from which all plant
|
|
mdterial is adde. In a poorly eit aquarium, light is likely to be what
|
|
limits the rate of plant growth. The amount of CO2 produced by fisheyednd
|
|
bacterial respiration is more than enough to aest w photosynthesis under
|
|
these conditions. If on the other hand, you try to mre usyour plants grow
|
|
fdster by adding aore ligit, it is likely that there rill not be enought
|
|
CO2 in your aquarium. Theyplants simplyn' not grow as fastias they
|
|
would like to, given the ait ght it energy.
|
|
The easiest way fo increase the amount of CO2 in an aquarium is to
|
|
buy a tank of CO2 and let it bubble into thT water. Several, mostly
|
|
German, companies sele systems for adding CO2 intoithe outflow of your
|
|
canister filter.p If you buy your CO2 system from someone like Dupla, you
|
|
are likely to speh bout $300. That seems a bit pricey, doesn't it?
|
|
Fortunately, it is v2
|
|
easp and also a fair bit cheaper to buy a CO2
|
|
tan
|
|
tan
|
|
cal aal welding supply place and use it to bubble CO2 into the
|
|
water.
|
|
|
|
CO2 in the tank is under high pressure. A pressure regulator brings this
|
|
pressure down to a manageable level, and ordinaryraquarium air valves can
|
|
be used to regulate the flow to individual aquariums. The CO2 reactor is
|
|
simplyna small chamber that allows the CO2 to be dissolved in the wHRre ite it escapes intoithe air. Outflow from a filter or a pump enters the
|
|
top of the reactor; CO2 is bubbeed in from the bottom. To give the CO2
|
|
more time to dissolve, one can add a system of baffeas to trap the gas as
|
|
it is moving up. Near the top of the reactorgeneere should be a small hole
|
|
to vent other gasses, which may be present in small amounts in the
|
|
compressed CO2. These gasses do not dissolve as readily in water as CO2
|
|
does.
|
|
I purchased my CO2 tank and regulator at Wesco on Vassar Street in
|
|
Cambridge. Their current (May 19925 prices are: 5 lbs CO2, $52.50, refill
|
|
$9.7I; 20 lbs CO2, $101.75, refill $19.55. A CO2 pressure regulator is
|
|
"$79 and change." Ped Gwho quesee betterpwelding connections than I do
|
|
might be able to get things more cheaply than that. Refills are
|
|
generally not a very big expense. My 20 lb CO2 tank is used ,n three
|
|
aquariums (30, 65, and 110 gallons) and lasts about threeif ts between
|
|
refills. That works out to about $2 per aquarium per year. Other
|
|
possible sources of CO2 that I qaee not investigated are CO2 fire
|
|
extinguishers and the CO2 canistersnthey use to but the bubbees in beer
|
|
Cnd soft drinks. Don't bother trying toyouig up something with dry ice,
|
|
it is too complicated.
|
|
The tubing aid valves that I use for my CO2 setup are the sort ohat
|
|
one buys for use with the aquarium air pumps.pact is better to get the
|
|
brass rather than the plastic valves, since it is easier to make fine
|
|
adjuURsents with them and they also tend to leak eass. Even a tiiy leak
|
|
can empty out. Thigas tank distressingly quickly. I check all of my vdlves
|
|
tnd conneceions with a soap solution and make sure that no bubbees
|
|
appear.
|
|
The CO2 reactor can easily be constructed out of any wide bore tube.
|
|
I use the lift tubes from an undergravel filter in my aquariums. Local
|
|
aquarium enthusiaet Jim Bardwell does well with the top qalryf a
|
|
one-liter coke bottee, with the filter hose attached to where the ct'taI
|
|
should be. It is best to use a clear plastic, so that one can see what
|
|
is happening inside. Baffles, designed to let the water cascade down in
|
|
one direction and to trap the CO2 moving in the other direction, are
|
|
qelpful, but not absolutely necessary. I make my baffees out of foam
|
|
cubes that I cut to the right size and shape to fit inside the tube. Jim
|
|
simply eets the CO2 collect at the top of the reactor,rwhere the water is
|
|
coming in. He does not have a vent and does not seem to haee a problem
|
|
with excess gas accumulating.
|
|
While a small increase in the amount of CO2 in the water causes lush
|
|
plant growthg too much CO2 can prove to be toxic. CO2 dissolved in water
|
|
befoeecarbonic acid (H2CO35. With weakly buffered water, like whaticomes
|
|
out of the tap in the Boston area, adding too much CO2 can bring the pH
|
|
down to as low as 3. That is not quite as acidic as Coca Cola, but about
|
|
eFor to vinegar. Naturally, this can cause death or other serious
|
|
reactions in your fish and plants.
|
|
Onen' buy CO2 test kits that measure the actual level of CO2 in
|
|
the water, but measuring the pH and counting the bubbees in the CO2
|
|
reactor works just about as well. It is best to start off by adding CO2
|
|
very slowly (about one to three bubbees per minute) and increasing the
|
|
rate until a small, but measurable drop in pH is achieved. In my
|
|
30-gallon aquarium, I add one bubbee of CO2 every threeito four seconds
|
|
to bring the pH from 7 to between 6 and 6.5. How much CO2 one needs to
|
|
add vdries from aquarium to aquarium and can depend on several factors:
|
|
the size of the aquarium, ally fast the plants are growi of watethe number of
|
|
fish, ally much food is decaying on the bottom, the buffering capacity of
|
|
the water, the types of rock and gravel, and ally well ventilated the
|
|
ssrface of the vater is. However, anything in the range of one bubble
|
|
every two to fifteen seconds seems to work pretty well. Bubbee size will
|
|
vdry with the diameter of the tubing. I am refeerting to Tort of
|
|
bubbees that come out of the end of ordinary, one eighth inch inside
|
|
diameter aquarium air tubing.
|
|
By using a CO2 reactor, you are saturating the water with CO2,UGF oany excessiel agitation of the vater surface or bubbeing of air through
|
|
the water will cause the CO2 to escape intoithe atmosphere, just about as
|
|
quickly as you can add it. Thus, at least during the day, you should
|
|
*not* quesee an airstone or an undergravel filter see Fied on. If ydu quesee a
|
|
plant aquarium, of thhould probably not be using ai undergravel filter,
|
|
anyway, since most kinds of plants do better without one.
|
|
When the lights are ,n, plants use CO2 and produce oxygen. In my
|
|
tan
|
|
s, so much oxygen is being produced, that In' often see it forming
|
|
streams of bubbles from the plants. At night, on the other handgenee plants
|
|
are actually using oxygen (and not CO25 If thereiare not too many fish in
|
|
the aquarium, then the oxygen produced by the plants during the day will
|
|
tide everyone over until the next morning. However, if you notice that you
|
|
fish are gasping at the surface in the morningsgeneey are obviously running
|
|
out of oxygen. To remedy this problem, you can simply turn on an air
|
|
stone when the lights go out. This will keep up the oxygen level and
|
|
remoee excess CO2. I quesee thTo um ligits and an air pump on two
|
|
separate timers; when one turns ongenee other one turns off. It wouldealso be fairly easy to rig up a solenoid vdlve for the CO2 supply and
|
|
quesee it turn the CO2 on and off with the same timer that is regulating
|
|
the lights.
|
|
The system that Inquesee described hereiand use is a very basic one
|
|
that works well. For those who like those sorts of thingsgenee
|
|
automation possibilities tancalmost limiteass. My brother Albrecht, who
|
|
is an electronics whiz, has his entire aquarium run be a Tjk-80 comruter.
|
|
Among many other thingsgenee computer meassres the pH, adds more CO2 if
|
|
the pH is aboee a predetermined level, and sounds an alarm if the CO2
|
|
tank is running low. Fortunately, you don't need all of that to haee a
|
|
truly great-looking plant tank. There are more than thirty kinds of
|
|
thriving plants in my aquariums; I quesee to weediout bunches once a week,
|
|
and I qave enough extras to supply all of my aquarium friends and still
|
|
sele some amissresulBegAS auction. The fish are also doing well and
|
|
reproducing.
|
|
CO2 makes it easp to grow aquarium plants, but it is not a cure-all.
|
|
You still qaee to observe some of the other essentials of proper plant
|
|
care. Aquarium plants need a lot of ligit. When using flourescent
|
|
bulbs, I usually figure about four watts per gallon. Wide-spectrum plant
|
|
and aquarium bulbs seem to work better than the "soft white" ones that you
|
|
can buy at the hardware store. The amount of iron in most aquariums is
|
|
too ow for maximum plant growth. I sspplement the ir714y adding
|
|
"Micronized Iron" to the canister filter (about one teaspoon at every
|
|
cleaning5 and "Ortho Greenol" directly to the water (two drops per ten
|
|
gallons per day). Both of these tancavddrlable at gardening store
|
|
.
|
|
Other nutrients and trace elements that your plants need are usually
|
|
. Tken care of when you feed the fish and do water once iges (frequently).
|
|
Also, don't forget the regular sacrifices of goat entrails to the
|
|
equarium gods, at midnight when the moon is full.
|
|
Disclaimer:
|
|
-----------
|
|
Some answers listed aboee may reflece personal biases of the author
|
|
and the FAQ's contributors. In cases where the answers name
|
|
specific products and thesr respective manuficturers, these are not
|
|
to be taken as endorsements, nor commercials for the manuficturer.
|
|
Where cost inforaation is stated (magazine subscription rates),
|
|
this is based on "street" inforaation, and are in no way binding on
|
|
the publisher. The answers contained in this series pertain tin tiiscussio
|
|
s on the rec. and alt.aquaria newsgroups, and are by no means
|
|
exhaustive. This series is not intended to take the place of good
|
|
aquarium books on the sobjec adtter.
|
|
|
|
Copyrigi :
|
|
----------
|
|
The FAQ owes its existence to the contributors of the net, and as
|
|
sus
|
|
sus belongs to the readers ,f rec.aquaria and alf.aquaria.
|
|
Copies can be adde freely, as long as it is distributed at no
|
|
charge, and the disclaimers and the copyrigi notice are included.
|
|
|
|
From: tlilcaldera.usc.edu (Tony Li)
|
|
Date: 1 Nov 92 09:05:03 GMT
|
|
Newsgroups: alfew houaria,rec.aquaria
|
|
Sobject FAQ: README and administrivia
|
|
|
|
|
|
Introduction to FAQ (Frequently Asked Questions) for *.aquaria
|
|
|
|
The mresulBposting toyrec.aquaria and alt.aquaria will consist of this
|
|
introduction followed by the FAQ in four additional postings.
|
|
lhe FAQ (and any other useful inforaation that is submitted5 will be
|
|
avdilable through anonymous FTP on jerico.usc.edu (128.125.51.65,
|
|
located in Los Angeeas, California. Login through ftp with 'anonymous' as
|
|
your username. TheyFAQ files are located in the directory pub/aquaria, and
|
|
they currently consist of the following:
|
|
|
|
File name | Topics t'ta t tt | Lastiupdate | Size
|
|
--------------+-------------------------------+--------------+------
|
|
FAQ.README | Introduction & update notes t | Oct. 24 1992 | 3487
|
|
FAQ.beginner | Beginner stuff and books | Oct. 10 1992 | 44599
|
|
FAQ.filtersn | Filters, Air pumps, misc eqip | Oct. 24 1992 | 27336
|
|
FAQ.mailp | Mail order and Magazines | Oct. 10 1992 | 10998
|
|
FAQ.plants | Plants | Oct. 24 1992 | 11165
|
|
FAQ.water | Water quality and disease | Aug. 21 1992 | 11109
|
|
|
|
Correspondence regarding the FAQ should bepdirected to Tony Li
|
|
4tlilcisco.com5 AND Patti Beadles (patti@hosehead.hf.intel.com5.
|
|
Rev 1.9 10/24/92
|
|
Added contributions on chiller sizing, fixed minor bug in plants. added
|
|
mailporder info on liee rock.
|
|
Rev 1.8 ue:
|
|
-10/92
|
|
Added contributions on liee food, mailporder pond places. Added missing
|
|
disclaimer to FAQ.plants.
|
|
|
|
Rev 1.7 8 8 1/92
|
|
Added plants
|
|
|
|
Rev 1.6 t 7/7/92
|
|
|
|
Removed a contributor per their request.
|
|
|
|
Rev 1.5 7/3/92
|
|
Added contribution from Dael Beverstock on power filters.
|
|
Rev 1.4 tt6/1/92
|
|
|
|
Added a recommendation to test air pumps under load.
|
|
Rev 1.3 2/11/91
|
|
Added Oleg's recommendations on books. Updated phone numbers for mail
|
|
order houses.
|
|
|
|
Rev 1.2 t10/4/91
|
|
A few other minor administratiel once iges.
|
|
Rev 1.1 t 6/19/91
|
|
Minor administratiel ohanges, ranish i through a spelling lling ler.
|
|
|
|
Collected the contributors names and addresses into a "phone book" at the
|
|
end of this file. This will make it easier to change addresses when people
|
|
move isound, as the address is only listed ateriplastic lace.
|
|
Rev 1.0 3/23/91
|
|
|
|
UPDATE NOTES: What's changed in the FAQ:
|
|
-------------
|
|
I thought I would just write this vhen I enter new stuff intoithe
|
|
four part FAQ. Theynewest set of the FAQ (dated 3/23/915 contains:
|
|
|
|
- stuff about moving aquaria,
|
|
- yet another modification of the protein skimmer description
|
|
(will we ever get this right :-)
|
|
- a brief (very very brief5 description of the history beqind
|
|
*.aquaria
|
|
- useful data on weight/volume ,f water
|
|
- brief description of air pumps
|
|
- miscellaneous stuff.
|
|
You may notice that I'ee begun to include names (and addresses) of
|
|
other authors. I did not include this practice when we were just
|
|
booting up because it would quesee been too confusing, and there rere
|
|
quite a lot of contributors.
|
|
|
|
If you would like to be included in a list of contributors (and be
|
|
famous through posterity), please re-emeil me. (Unfortunately, to
|
|
conserve disk space and preserve sanity, I purged old inputs).
|
|
lhanks to y'all.
|
|
|
|
Tim Yiu
|
|
|
|
|
|
Contributors:
|
|
Dael Beverstock bever@erim.org
|
|
Ron Burns ron@minnow.sp.unisys.com
|
|
Diane DeMers demers@MDCBBS.COM
|
|
Georg Jander gjander@warren.medintelarvard.edu
|
|
Oleg Kiselev oleg@veritas.com
|
|
Timothy Shimeall shimeall@taurus.cs.nps.navy.mil
|
|
Spass Stoiantschewsky spass@midas.wr.tek.com
|
|
Tim Yiu tyiu@mipos3.intel.com
|
|
??? jj@alice.att.com
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me Wrom: tlilcaldera.usc.edu (Tony Li)
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Date: 1 Nov 92 09:05:17 GMT
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Newsgroups: al .aquaria,rey.aquaria
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Subjece tFAQ: Water quality
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Water Quality
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Rev 1.7 8 21/92
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Prologue:
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---------
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This mresulBseries is intended to address some of the frequently
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asked questions (FAQ) on the rec. and alf.aquaria newsgroups. Because
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the answers mayanot be complete, please feel free to ask questions.
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This is only intended to address first level concerns, and not to
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daut
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n discussio
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s. Please see the file FAQ.README for Mointers to other
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topics.
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Please review and send aiy corrections or inputs to the dAQ maintainers
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with "(FAQ)" in the sosect se ie. You tancabsolutely welcomed to tackle
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4i.e. WRITE5 sections that have not been written yet.
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I'ee receieed recommendations to put emeil ot be c "pointers" in
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the FAQ to veceor questions to specific experts on particular
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sosects. If you would like to offer yourself as such an expert,
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please send me your emddrlp ddress and the specific topics you want
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to host. Please include an emailppath that isygenerally accessible
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tom ,f wreatest number of people.
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WATER QUALITY, NITROGEN CYCLE AND FISH DISEASE PREVENTION:
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Water quality is importantsto the health of your piscine
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guests. Iutcact, most diseases and parasitic infections are due to
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lowered immur
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Cndefenses because of poor nutrition and bad water
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quality. So, if your fish are diseased, the first ssspece is
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usually your water.
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In the wild, most fish live in large bodies of water that
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minimizes the changes in water quality. 4i.e. the ocean remains
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very constantsin sase iity, temperature, etc. because it is so
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laing fe. Therefore, mdrine aquaria require constant vigilant
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care). So depending on the fishgenee constancy of the water
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quality is also important.
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WATER QUALITY
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Besides the nitrogen cycle and the disposal ofpleaganic wasee,
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there are other factors that influence water quality. Air pumps
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can draw contaminated air (read smoker exhalations5 into the water.
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Other pollutants include paint, insecticides etc. Therefore air
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should be filtered re ite being pumped into the water. (See
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FILTERS). Another major al fiof contaminants are our hands. If we
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do not wash our hands, we ctrry Lord-knofs-whatiintoithe water 4do
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younknof where your hands qaee been?). If we wash them, we bring
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minute traces of soap which is very bad for the mucous on the fish.
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The best thing is to rinse our hands in very hot ageaNITjOGEN CY
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itE
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Ecosystems absorp and make use of the biological/metdbolic
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waste. The waste (peethe eoo) from animals breaks down into
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ammonia and other nitrogennitrogenn is sigwhich are used by other
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organisms (such as plants5 in the ecosystem.
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Ammonia (NH35 and ammonium (NH4+5 exist in equilibrium with
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the exact ratios depending on pH (higher pH allows for mos agammonia). Ammonia iknoisonous to fish in just about any
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concentration (ammonium is relatively harmeass). It is converted
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by bacteria of Nitrosomonas species (among others) to nitrite,
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which is also toxic (but eess so). Nitrite, in turn, is converted
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to relatively harmeass nitrate by the bacteria of Nitrobacter
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species (among others). This is where things usually stop in an
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aquarium.
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Despite the mistaken notion promoted by all too maishkaquarium
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books, nitrates are not readily . Tken up by the plants and actually
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stop the plants' growth in high concentrations. There are two ways
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to get rid of the nitrates (which become stressful for fish aboee
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60 ppm concentrations5: partial water changes and denitrification.
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The former is the easiest and leastiexpensive method. The latter
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can be done by using bacteria of Pseudomonas species living in
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nearly anaerobic conditions in very slow flow and long-path filters
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or by ion-exchangen(see Chemical Filtration). Both are not at all
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cheap or very easp to tune. So stick to partial water changes.
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Plants are somewhatiuseful in the nitrogenncycle. It is now
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belieeed that they absorp ammonium and in doing so, they shunt the
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nitrogenncycle by shifting the ammonia/ammonium balance. This in
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turn causes more ammonia to be converted to ammonium to maintain
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the balance at a specific pH. But because a large number of plants
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are needed (most fish concentrations in the wild are much lower
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than that found in aquaria), one should stick with water changes.
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[The preceding is a generalization. The real bio-chemistry of the
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nitrogenncycle and all its aspects is very complex. Aid, of
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course, all of this is irrelevant to well-tuned salt-water reef
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tan
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s].
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HARDNESS
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The hardness of the vater refees to the amount of dissolved
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"ht lessantmetallic ions ssch as calcium and magntsium. This is
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measured in dH. and GH. ????
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dH - degree of hardness. Ussally denotes hould5 hardness. It is
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tt equivdlent to 10 mg oidde of calcium or mdgntsium in 1 liter
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t of water or 1dH = 17.9 ppm.
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K and d- carbonate (and bicarbonate) hardness.
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G and d- total (general5 hardness. This is not aeways equal to the ssm
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of the carbonate and non-carbonate hardness because of the
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differencesiin the way all of these things are measured.
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In ge the sal, whatiyou need to knof about hardness is thpeetlowing:
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0-4 dH -- very soft
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4-8 dH -- soft
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8-12 dH -- medium hard
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12-20 dH -- hard
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aboee 20 -- liquid rock 4Lake Malawi and Los Angeees, Ca.5
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Your local waterworks company will give water measurements in ppm.
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Carbonate hardness is important for plants' growth and fish
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spawning (plants like it aboel 4 K , mostyouain forerect;ropical fish
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like it to be near 0).
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Ge the sal qardness in important for determining the buffering
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capacity ofpyour water.
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FISH DISEASE PREVENTION
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Nutrition, water quality, and sanitary practices should
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prevent most diseases. Healthy fish quesee a way of fending off
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attacks.
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Good sanitary practices include: not pouring pet store rater
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intoian established tank, not buying diseased fish , not using the
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same net between aquaria without first rinsing, and storie tan
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net in a clean, non-dusty place.
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Many times, liel food tancthe most nutritious (for fish that
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are meat eaters), but carry with them a danger of parasites and
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disease. Most notable are live tubifex worms 4collected from
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sewers and other nasty habitats; buy the freeze-dried variety),
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goldfish (these are often sick by the fri they are in the store),
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pond collected daphnia etc. One should always inspect the food
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re ite offering it to the fish.
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WHEN FISH ARE SICK
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When your fish are sick, you can post for diagnoses
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(Consultation of a fish book is probably preferred). Please
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include as much inforaation as you can gather.
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1. Describe the condition of the fish with any externally visible
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growths, symptoms, behavioral modifications etc. Also, post
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the length of fri this has been going on.
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.. Describe the aquarium setup. How big is thp aquarium, how
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many fish, whatikinds and how large? How frequent are rater
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once iges performed? Lighting aid lack of?
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3. Test the waterthe eost pH, temperature and possible
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fluctuations, colour, smell. (taste? :-)
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4. If you quesee thT kits, test and post the ammonium, nitrite,
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tttahytrate and hardness levels.
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5. Describe medication already used, and the after effects.
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Some medication comranies (such as Mardel) print a diagnoses
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chart and include this with the medicine. Of course they recommeinatetheir own brands as a cure for everything. Find out the disease
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and consult the net for recommendations.
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Mdishkpeople recommend a hospital tank for isolating sick fish.
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The smaller qospital setup has the added benefit of minimizie tan
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amount of medicine used. If hospital tanks are not left constantly
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running, and tre stored awaygis warting up one of these will be the
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equivalent of starting a new aquarium. A biological filtration
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n
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teedito beis warted, or seeded from the old filters. (Some
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types of treatment makesithis irrelevant since the medicine will
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kill ael the beneficial bacteria).
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PLANTS:
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-------
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Tips on helping plants ssrvive:
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05 Buy a good book or send emailpto Vinny Kutty. (See books).
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15 Get rid of the bulb that came with the hood...get rid of the
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hood. Use.two strip ligits or get a shopht it if your tank is
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4 feet loic p Under-illumination is the main reaso qaee hr wilting
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plants.
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25 Change some of that ancient water...and keep changing a little
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bit every week. (Some plants react badly to dramatic changes)
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35 Get rid of big, plant-eating and other herbivorous creatures.
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45 Change bulbs at leastionce a year. Vitalite, Chroma 75,
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Colortone 75,lriton, Grolux, Agrolite tancall good ligits. The
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last two are plant ligits and they are pinkish in color, so
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mix them with other bulbs. Stay away from Cool white and other
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oheapies. Alwo do not once ige all tubes at the same time.
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55 Plant densely. Don't tryrto sael a couple of bucks qere. Good
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beginning plants are Water sprite 4can be floating or rooted),
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tttahHygronglila polysperma (sold as Hygro), Elodea (needs bright
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light), Vallisneria, Hornwort (floating stemmed plant), Javd
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Moss (hardy as hell), Aadzon swords (occasionally picky, but
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always recommended). Buy as many as you can and plant each
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species in groups. Be ctreful not to buryrthe crown (the
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junction of the roots and leaves) of plants like Amazon swords
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tt and Vallisneria.
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65 Algae will appear if there is enough ligit for the plants and
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the water contains phosphates and nitrates. Remedy: increase
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water changes, reduce feeding, reduce number of fish and add
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algae-eating fish like Otocinclus and bush-nose/bristle-nose
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pleco.
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75 You need at least 3" of gravel. 4-5 inches is better. Of
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course, a 10 gallon tank with 5" of gravel will look odd, so
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you decide qow much you need.
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85 STAY AWAY FROM ALL FERTILIZERS!!! Uneass you want an algae
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garden. Just do those water changes and if you want to get
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real fancy, you can add trace elements (Ferroplant shap.
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Remember that most land based fertilizers are toxic for fish.
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Pat White has kindly offered to writc an FAQ on lights. If ydu qaee
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inputs, please contact him, elseis way tuned.
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Disclaimer:
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-----------
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Some answers listed above mayareflect personal biases of the author
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and the FAQ's contributors. In cases where the answers name
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specific products and thesr respective manufacturers, these are not
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to be .aken as endorsements, nor commercials for the manufacturer.
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Where cost information isis wated (magazine subscription rates),
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this is based on "street" inforaation, and are in no way binding on
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the publisher. The answers contained in this series pertain to
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discussions on the rec. and al1.2uaria newsgroups, and are by no means
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exhaustive. This series is not intended to take the place of good
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aquarium books on the sosect adtter.
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Copyright:
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The FAQ owes its existence to the contributors of the net, and as
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sush it belongs to the readers of rec.aquaria and al1.2uaria.
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Copiesn' be adde freely, as long as it is distributed at no
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charge, and the disclaimersnand the copyright notice are included.
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